Baja: Bahia Gonzaga, Punta Final, and the Colorado River Delta (sea kayaking)

Baja Trekker

New member
Hi ya'll,

I'm new to the forum - thanks Ursidae69, cool site! - and thought I'd start off with a trip report and photos of our recent March adventures in Baja California, MX. What follows is a cut and paste (I know, I'm lazy) of my report from another site, but I will also add the following:

Bahia Gonzaga has all the amenities you could need, including gas, food, cold beer, great camping, wildlife, desert, and sea; Bring a full-sized spare - the dirt road to get there is terrible; Tread lightly; support the locally-owned business and fight tenatiously the (corporate) development of the wild places you love...

Also, paddling the Colorado River Delta region is not recommended unless you have some decent navigation skills, you like pain, and are maybe a little :wings:

Here's the brief with photos to follow:

With little pre-trip planning we ended up spending two weeks in Baja and the Sea of Cortez. The first week we spent in Bahia San Luis Gonzaga and the second week paddling the ‘crossing’ from San Felipe to El Golfo de Santa Clara.

The drive to Gonzaga was uneventful but beautiful, driving through the amazing lower Sonoran desert subdivision. Cacti and ocotillos and creosote bush flew by our speeding truck and the desert smelled dry. We camped along the way and loved being on the beach. I absolutely had to take that requisite baptismal swim in the Sea after spending such a long cold snowy winter in Colorado. It sure felt like the warm Sea welcomed me as I floated naked and pale in her rolling waters.

Taking the recommendations from others we headed for Campo Beluga, about two or three miles south of Alfonsina’s in Bahia San Luis Gonzaga. It is a great place to stay with fresh water, toilets, and very sturdy palapas. We based our over night kayaking from there.

The coves near Punta Final are largely unvisited, mostly because of access difficulty – the kayak is the perfect way to get there. We camped on typical Baja beaches littered with trash and dead sea creatures like sea turtles, sea lions, pelicans as well as discarded bleach bottles, plastic bags and rope.

We spent an afternoon swimming in a hyper-saline lagoon that featured brine shrimp and hyper-buoyancy. What a kick trying to snorkel to the bottom but being left to pop to the top like a cork! This lagoon has clearly been here for a long long time and is divided from the sea by a steep granite boulder 'beach'.

One day we spent an hour watching a California Grey whale (videos posted on other site) and a pod of dolphins feed in an isolated cove. Judging by the bubbles it appeared that the whale was ‘bubble netting’ prey. Neither the whale nor the dolphins minded our presence and the whale even swam right under my brothers and our friend Ricks’ kayak.

In Baja I love how my senses become hyper-vigilant – my eyes are always searching for movement or patterns in the desert, the sea, the beach. It could simply be a disruption in the pattern of waves that indicates dolphins surfacing in the distance. Or it could mean a coyote standing in the rocky shadows on the shoreline watching us paddle by. As always, things for me feel new and there’s always a sense of anticipation about what lies over the next sand dune, what bones we might find on the beach, what creature might appear at the bow of our kayaks.

This was by far the best Baja trip I've had in years...
 
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Ursidae69

Traveller
Hey Greg, welcome to the site, glad you are here. :beer: This kayak trip you took across the delta is super cool and I hope to do this trip myself someday.
 

Baja Trekker

New member
video

Thanks Ursidae and Jeff!

With the proper planning (guts) and safety gear (go-for-it attitude) it is a great crossing (the Delta part, I mean). Because of its harsh and diverse environment I think it will remain an isolated patch of wilderness worth preserving (and exploring). Even though we saw a whale, dolphins and beautiful beaches in Bahia Gonzaga, the wilderness aspect and dynamics of the tides in the Delta really captured me. I've posted more video here: http://www.bajatrekker.com/phpbb/index.php

Happy adventures!

greg
 

Christophe Noel

Expedition Leader
On Christmas eve of 2002, my wife dumped me off on a beach near San Felipe. 75 days later I was nearing Cabo. I actually stopped shy of Cabo as the surf was getting gnarly and frankly, I was just over it. Entirely.

I have a lot of respect for anyone who does extended paddling along the baja. That section of coast from Gonzaga to Los Angeles nearly killed me...three times. At moments I cried like a child. Seriously sketchy. Kudos to you for that crossing of the delta. Man, that took some huevos!!! Good for you!

As for me, I'll never go back. NEVER. 75 days solo down there made me coo-coo. It took at least 3 months back home for me to get my head on strait again. I loved kayaking. My little 75 day paddle was too much of a good thing.

Again, Kudos to you!

Now that I think about it, my butt hasn't sat in a kayak cockpit since that final day when I dragged my boat ashore in 2002.
 
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Super Doody

Explorer
sounds like an awesome adventures. The ocean always demands respect.

Where did you guys park your vehicles for an extend amount of time?
 

Ursidae69

Traveller
I'd also like to know where you parked Greg.

Flounder, your 2002 trips sounds awesome. Was it a weather event that almost got you?
 

Baja Trekker

New member
coo coo

wow Flounder - what a trip! I can relate to going coo coo - I tried a solo trip in Baja 2 years ago and it ended up being my mind that made me turn around. I turned back to San Felipe at Calamajue - that stretch that nearly killed you three times is not one to take lightly and I chickened out! Maybe someday with a paddling partner... maybe ...

Have any photos of that trip you'd like to share with the crowd? :luxhello:

Super Doody and Ursidae, a friend of my brother (who was with us for the first part of the trip in Gonzaga) dropped us off in San Felipe and our mom and step dad picked us up in El Golfo. If you don't have that kind of option, I'm not really sure what to do about safely parking your vehicle for long periods...

In the mean time, Baja dreamin' :camping:

Flounder said:
On Christmas eve of 2002, my wife dumped me off on a beach near San Felipe. 75 days later I was nearing Cabo. I actually stopped shy of Cabo as the surf was getting gnarly and frankly, I was just over it. Entirely.

I have a lot of respect for anyone who does extended paddling along the baja. That section of coast from Gonzaga to Los Angeles nearly killed me...three times. At moments I cried like a child. Seriously sketchy. Kudos to you for that crossing of the delta. Man, that took some huevos!!! Good for you!

As for me, I'll never go back. NEVER. 75 days solo down there made me coo-coo. It took at least 3 months back home for me to get my head on strait again. I loved kayaking. My little 75 day paddle was too much of a good thing.

Again, Kudos to you!

Now that I think about it, my butt hasn't sat in a kayak cockpit since that final day when I dragged my boat ashore in 2002.
 

Christophe Noel

Expedition Leader
Baja can be a cruel beast. I originally started out with plans on crossing the delta then thought....naaaahhh...mud ain't my thing. I think you are a brave soul to have even tried it.

The "wall" past Gonzaga to Bahia Los Angeles is one spooky monster. I sat on a beach in Gonzaga for three days looking for my man parts to muster up the courage to press on.

My trip had it all. Search planes looking for drowned boaters, bandits who robbed me of fishing gear, nasty seas, nasty wind, nasty beaches, one seprated shoulder, several days of illness. It was brutal. I planned that expedition for 2 years and it started deteriorating by day 2 on the water.

I'll dig up some photos. Sadly, I didn't come home with many. By week five I just wanted to get home.

I'm jealous of your good time. Mine had potential. Just crummy weather. Tell us more about your trip!
 
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viter

Adventurer
wow... great stories from both of you guys!
never thought kayaking can get so dangerous...
 

Christophe Noel

Expedition Leader
viter said:
wow... great stories from both of you guys!
never thought kayaking can get so dangerous...

Weird huh? Sea kayaking does have it's moments. Seems like such a safe thing to do, but it can be deadly. For example: I got lax one day and dumped it. Without much fuss I made a tight roll and sat upright again. I happened to look down in front of me and noticed I had tucked the pull tab of my spray skirt into the cockpit combing where it was impossible to reach. had I not really nailed that roll I would have been clawing at my neoprene skirt as I probably drowned. Prior to that I had mentioned that hazzard to dozens of my kayak clients in AK. My motto for that trip eventually became, "solo makes you so slow." Mentally that is. Even the little things can getcha.

Thanks Baja Trekker for sharing your trip. It brought back a flood of memories.
 

Jonathan Hanson

Well-known member
Ha! I get into more arguments with river kayakers who think sea kayaking is all smooth water and floppy hats. I've had some moments six or seven miles offshore that made me wish I was on a river with a bank nearby.

The Sea of Cortez can easily fool you, and does so to many people. They lose one or two around Bahia de los Angeles every few years. Usually paddlers not dressed for the water (always cold there due to upwelling), and not skilled enough to handle sudden 25-knot winds.

But there's no place in the world I'd rather paddle.
 

Christophe Noel

Expedition Leader
Jonathan Hanson said:
But there's no place in the world I'd rather paddle.

I can appreciate why people love kayaking Baja. It had moments when I loved it too.

For those who have never paddled Glacier Bay National Park I highly recommend it. The millions of islands in Sweden are also great fun.

Kayaks are amazing craft. Silent. Smooth. Capable. If I didn't live in Prescott, I'd be on the water more.
 

Jonathan Hanson

Well-known member
Heck, I live in Tucson and ran a sea kayak guiding business in Baja and on the mainland for three years. Racked up some miles on the Land Cruiser doing that.
 

Christophe Noel

Expedition Leader
Jonathan Hanson said:
Heck, I live in Tucson and ran a sea kayak guiding business in Baja and on the mainland for three years. Racked up some miles on the Land Cruiser doing that.

Which company, if you don't mind me asking? I did some guide gigs for Dieshu Expeditions as well as a couple jaunts with AK Discovery. I loved guiding. Good times. When I was near La Paz I bumped into several guide outfits. One guide lectured the heck out of me telling me I was risking my life by going solo and that eventually they'd be reading about my demise in Sea Kayaker Mag. "Gee....thanks....can I have some of your cobbler?"
 
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