Battery Load tester

dstock

Explorer
Looking for a reasonably priced load tester to use while recovering my Group 34/78 Diehard Platinum batteries? Any suggestions?

Thanks.
 

Haf-E

Expedition Leader
A load tester for short duration testing? or something that is able to be left on to drain a battery to estimate the capacity?

I have a Harbor Freight load tester that has worked well - but is their typical quality... What is the process you are using to "recover" the battery?
 

dstock

Explorer
Something that could be left on to drain the battery. Currently, I am improvising using ARB fridge and low voltage cutoff to bring the battery down to the 10 volts, which will take a lot longer than 5 hours but they said that is ok. Unfortunately, this will not help with the testing process below as it's not a constant drain.

Following the Odyssey guidelines:

"11.2V OCV is 0% state of charge. We recommend the 5 hour rate of discharge to 10.0V from a full state of charge. So, at 137W or 11.5A it should take 5 hours to reach 10.0V (read voltage while load applied) from a full state of charge. When the load is removed, it will recover to 10.5-11.5V or so. The higher the rate of discharge, the less efficient the discharge and the shallower the depth of discharge. The idea is to deeply discharge the battery the recharge at 25A not to exceed 15.0V. If the battery vents or overheats at less than 15.0V then the battery may be severely sulfated and have a high internal resistance causing overheating. If the battery vents, hisses or gets so hot you cannot hold your hand on it then discontinue charging. Warm is ok but hot is not. J


If after several cycles the battery performs at less than 80% of its rated capacity (from a full state of charge of 12.84V OCV minimum) then replacement would be recommended. So if you use the 5 hour rate of discharge and it runs less than 4 hours after several cycles, then it would be performing at less than 80% of its rated capacity. "
 

Haf-E

Expedition Leader
Regular car lights won't give a constant load - the wattage they draw will drop off as the voltage drops. Many of the LED lights will work better as they use a current limiting circuit to keep the LED's at a more constant brightness. Kinda expensive though...

A non-constant load would be OK since what is really needed is just a repeatable test condition.

Not sure of what I think of repeatedly draining the battery to 10.0 vdc though - its a pretty severe thing to do to a lead acid battery...
 

dstock

Explorer
Regular car lights won't give a constant load - the wattage they draw will drop off as the voltage drops. Many of the LED lights will work better as they use a current limiting circuit to keep the LED's at a more constant brightness. Kinda expensive though...

A non-constant load would be OK since what is really needed is just a repeatable test condition.

Not sure of what I think of repeatedly draining the battery to 10.0 vdc though - its a pretty severe thing to do to a lead acid battery...

I have a pair of 55 watt Hella driving lights that will at least get me discharged faster (but not faster then their 5 hours) than using the low voltage cutoff off on my ARB fridge. I'm going to give it at least one cycle to their spec and see where it ends up.
 

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