Behind the dash in a Gen 2.5, is it really that open?

nckwltn

Explorer
Looking at the following pictures eurosonic posted, I'm wondering if the area behind the dash really has that much of a cavity. I realize the plumbing for the HVAC needs to sit back there, but it looks like there are still a lot of openings.

The reason I bring this up is that I need to run power for a "russian dash cam" I recently purchased. I want the power cable to be as hidden as possible. I want to run it above and along the headliner, then behind the A-Pillar trim on the passenger side. With all that room under/behind the dash cover, it looks like I will be home free once I make it down the A-Pillar.


 

eurosonic

Expedition Leader
no need to take out the dash for a dashcam. Run the wires through the A pillar and tap into the circuit by the fusebox. I just did that on my Audi, will be doing the same thing on the montero.
 

nckwltn

Explorer
no need to take out the dash for a dashcam. Run the wires through the A pillar and tap into the circuit by the fusebox. I just did that on my Audi, will be doing the same thing on the montero.

I just want the wire to be as hidden as possible. I'm about to head down to the garage to work on it now.... Hopefully won't need to remove the dash to get things as hidden as I want.
 

eurosonic

Expedition Leader
Here is how I have mounted in the Audi. It's mounted up high for a better view. All of the wiring goes through the headliner then to the A pillar then down by the door to the fuse box.

Plus it's behind the mirror so I doesn't get in the way for the driver.

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nckwltn

Explorer
I didn't drop the entire front headliner, but I did undo the screws that hold the visors on, this allowed the headliner to drop just enough to get the wire tucked up out of the way. Along with the A-pillar trim removal, the wire was easily ran down to behind the radio.
 

PhyrraM

Adventurer
Most (not all) dome light circuits have a constant power supply, and sunroof switches have a switch power supply. I've safely, and successfully, used both to power 5 volt USB adapters. I can't imagine a camera needing more than that. If you have a Homelink mirror, then that might be another option.

Just an idea. Seemed easier than running down the A-pillar.
 

nckwltn

Explorer
Most (not all) dome light circuits have a constant power supply, and sunroof switches have a switch power supply. I've safely, and successfully, used both to power 5 volt USB adapters. I can't imagine a camera needing more than that. If you have a Homelink mirror, then that might be another option.

Just an idea. Seemed easier than running down the A-pillar.

I thought about that. But the camera i bought (http://www.blackvueusa.com) has a special power thing that puts the camera into parking mode. It will basically continue to record and using sensors if you're car is hit in a parking lot will record some video to the memory card. The box itself needs constant power and switched power. I'll probably post some kind of review of the device after a few weeks of using and looking at the footage.

With full insurance on the '99 being about 50% of what I paid for it per year, I'm on a liability only plan. I figure that a couple hundred bucks for a dash-cam is good money spent to help prove I was right and the other driver is wrong.
 

Sabre

Overlanding Nurse
You won't have any problems. I recently put an antenna up for my ham radio, running the coax down the driver's side A-pillar and on down under the dash, under the center console/tunnel and to the radio mounted under my seat. There's a ton of room under that dash and your wires will be completely invisible.
 

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