Blue Sea 7611 or 7622?

[Jsweezy]

Ok guys, I have been burning up my computer screen trying to figure out what setup I wanted and why. A huge thanks to everyone on this forum for the information but I am having trouble deciding which Blue Sea Systems ACR I want. Here is some of the things I want as well as how I plan to use my Aux Battery.

I plan to use my aux battery for a fridge (arb or indel-b 50qt), charging cell phones and maybe some exterior lights if SHTF when parked for extended periods of time. I don't anticipate this needing a whole lot of juice but I honestly don't know.

I want to keep the aux battery completely isolated from the main battery that way I know the car should start as I won't turn it on acc while its parked. I have thought about the jumping aspect from the aux to the main but if I dont ever turn the key to acc and only use the aux when parked I shouldn't need it.

So this leads me to believe for my application that I would want the Blue Sea SI-ACR 7611. Do you agree or do you think I should get the ML-ACR 7622 and if so, why?

Thanks and I hope this post helps someone else out later!

 

[NikonRon]

What if your main start battery just happens to go bad? For that reason alone I went with the 7622. Plus it gives you an extra battery for winching. Ron

 

[Jsweezy]

That's a good point, I didn't think of that one ha ha. Thanks for the input, I appreciate it!

 

[DiploStrat]

I like the 7620. https://www.bluesea.com/products/7620/ML-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12V_DC_500A

While I don't think that the electromechanical override of the 7622 is worth the extra cost, SI series does not have a remote override switch and I think that is is invaluable. I have never had to use it to jump start, but I use it all the time when I want to assure that the alternator is helping out with the stove or some other large load. (If you start the load BEFORE you start the engine, the ACR may not combine until after a lengthy timeout because the camper batteries will be below 13v and the ACR will not combine until it is sure that the starter battery is really on charge.)

 

[Bbasso]

I'm very happy I picked the 7622...

 

[texascrane]

While I don't think that the electromechanical override of the 7622 is worth the extra cost

The 7622 is $20 more than the 7620 on Amazon. For what a dual-battery system is going to cost all-in, $20 wouldn't make much difference to me.

 

[Jsweezy]

Well if I can get the 7622 for 20 dollars more than the 7620 then I am gonna go that route, If not then I'll just get the 7620. While I don't plan to use the jump function and hope I don't have to, it's better to have and not need then need and not have.

While we're on the subject, for the guys running the dual battery setup, which batteries do you prefer for main and aux?

Thanks for all of your input, I greatly appreciate it!

 

[DiploStrat]

To be really pedantic, both ML ACR have a remote control. The 22 has a manual, local lock out switch as well. I cannot see a use for it, other than maintenance. I do know that the manual switch has long timeouts which can be a pain.

But for only $25, go for it.

 

[Jsweezy]

So really the only reason to go with the 7622 over the 7620 is if you want the manual lockout?

By the way, I love the Blazer, I have a 1971 Suburban with the same color scheme I am trying to restore.

 

[4RunAmok]

PowerWerx has the 7622 for the same price I have seen others sell the 7620 for.
http://www.powerwerx.com/batteries-chargers/blue-sea-7622-battery-charging-separator-relay-500a.html

 

[DiploStrat]

So really the only reason to go with the 7622 over the 7620 is if you want the manual lockout?

By the way, I love the Blazer, I have a 1971 Suburban with the same color scheme I am trying to restore.

That is the only difference that I have seen. Both of the ML models have a remote switch which you can mount wherever you wish.

Had the '72 Blazer for four years, two in Cameroon, two in Ecuador. Then had a '77 Blazer for 14 years, finally sold it in Botswana.

You can see more of the '72 here: http://www.pbase.com/diplostrat/sahara and here: http://www.pbase.com/diplostrat/bolivia76

 

[NW40]

If you plan on jump starting through the 7622, or winching through it, make sure your wires are sufficient for the amperage. You don't want to start a fire after all that hard work installing the stuff!

Blue Sea has a great Circuit Wizard iPhone app and calculator on their website that helps you determine the appropriate gauge. If I recall correctly, the 7622 also includes a wiring guide.

Oh, and I went with the 7622. I like having the lockout on the ACR.

 

[DiploStrat]

The Devil made me ask it ...

When would you use a manual lockout? (Serious question.)

 

[NW40]

When you don't have the remote switch installed. I never installed the switch in my FJ40. Though that scenario probably doesn't apply to most people who'd install the switch.

I did, however, install the in-cab switch in my Discovery, and I still like having the under-hood manual lockout on the 7622 because my 3 and 5 year old kids like pushing buttons in the cab. Also, whenever I top off my batteries with a battery tender, I'm already under the hood and separate the batts via the manual lockout switch so that each battery independently gets a 100% charge.

Same goes for the Blue Sea ML Remote Battery Switch 7700 I have installed in-line with my winch for winch power cutoff. Yeah, I could just use the remote switch which is installed in the cab, but then my kids could turn the winch on and play with the in-cab winch controls. With the under-the-hood manual lockout, there's no chance of that happening. I leave my winch locked out unless I'm headed out for a trip. Then I enable the switch operation for in-cab winch operation.

 

[DiploStrat]

When you don't have the remote switch installed. I never installed the switch in my FJ40. Though that scenario probably doesn't apply to most people who'd install the switch.

... because my 3 and 5 year old kids like pushing buttons in the cab.

Touché The second reason rules!