Building a better camper mounting system - Torsion free, three point.

After reading through quite a few posts on the forum I have yet to find what I am looking for.

I recently purchased a 2nd hand Travel Lite 890 SBRX truck camper. My first camper. This I plonked on the back of my 2006 extra cab short bed Ford F-350. The truck has a few mods to make it "better", but nothing radical. Suspension is stock, tyres are 37x12.5R18 BF Goodrich AT, diff ratio is 4.56 and ARB Air Lockers added. Then there is slight tweaking to the engine for better performance.

Basically, now almost 3.000 km later, I love the camper and I love the truck, but the method by which the two are joined is c**p.

A lot of my driving has been on very bad roads with corrugation, pot holes and inclines up to 18%. As if that wasn't bad enough, I also drove a fair distance on very rough trails, that in hindsight I would not attempt without a more robust mounting system as the camper was sliding around, banging against the wheel wells and possibly even damaged in the process.

On one occasion, traversing a very steep trail with washouts, the right front tie-down loop pulled into a straight pin, fortunately not tearing the mounting out of the camper, but warranting an outcry from the better half who thought the camper was now on a private journey down the mountainside.

I have been in email contact with someone at Travel Lite, Larry Johns larry@travellitecampers.com. While my enquiries were general I received courteous replies, four in all. When I sent my ideas of a torsion free cradle mount, asking for an engineering contact, all contact was lost. I have followed up three times at the time of this writing, but to no avail. This, truth be told, pisses me off.

I have made a significant investment in a product from Travel Lite and have discovered that the insubstantial way in which the manufacturer expects the product to be affixed to my vehicle (any moving vehicle) makes the camper and vehicle prone to damage. I am trying to improve on this aspect of the design and am asking for information that can only be reasonably expected to come from the manufacturer.

Following is the original email regarding my cradle mount idea:

========================

Hello Larry,

I have been designing a three point, torsion free cradle mount for my TL 890SBRX truck camper. What I now need is a contact within Travel Lite that can give me advice on camper structure and mounting possibilities.

I have included a simple view of what I have conceived. The design is in Google Sketchup, so I can send it to your engineer to turn and twist if so desired.

From left to right in the attachment:
The cradle, based on a heavy gauge tube spine. Total weight estimated around 250lb.
A simple diagram of the frame rails with fixed transverse mounts over rear overload spring seat and swivelling front mount (truck bed omitted for simplicity).
The cradle on frame.
Finally with camper in place.

This solution requires that four holes be cut in the truck bed to gain access to frame mounted attachment points, one behind each wheel well and two right at the front of the bed.

The questions I have pertain to the camper structure, such as:
Should I place the forward outriggers at the front of the camper tub instead of in line with the stock tie-downs?
What is the best way to fix the camper to the cradle to prevent it from sliding off the back, i.e. are the four tie-downs strong enough to handle this task?
Is there anything that I am obviously overlooking? (Nope, I don’t have the cash for a Unicat modded Unimog).

Look forward to your reply.

========================

A month has passed without a reply. I have followed up twice with emails to "Larry" and copied info@travellitecampers.com to no avail. My conspiracy theories is that company policy bans replies to these kinds of queries as this could expose the company to lawsuits.

So, here I am, fully aware of my personal responsibility for any and all designs that I conjure, but pissed off because I could be headed for a very expensive mistake that a short email from the manufacturer could prevent. Needless to say, I will never buy another Travel Lite camper.

That said, I am trying to make the most of what I got. I have a camper that I just paid $17,500 for. I can´t afford a Tisher, let alone a Unicat dream mobile, but I can justify some time and money to protect what I have and make it better suited for my needs.

In short, my idea is basically a boat trailer for my slide in camper, based on a three point Unimog mounting concept.

I have sketched the basic idea up in Google SketchUp, but would appreciate any feedback from forum members. My biggest problem is lack of structural info on the camper, due to sudden muteness of my contact there.

I can utilise tie down points to stop transverse movement, but my gut tells me that the leg mounts are stronger. I can use the front leg mounts, but not the rear. I have no idea what would be the best way to stop front/back movement.

There you have it. Please share your thoughts.

With advanced thanks,
SIJ

Link to SketchUp drawing:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/30685452/Pallhýsi - vagga.skp
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Hard to think about without pics...

Offhand I would say: Keep the camper and the bed together and use the torsion free mount between the bed and the frame - rather than cutting holes in the bed and trying to mount the camper torsion free while the bed is not torsion free.
 
I should have included screen shots, so here they are:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/30685452/Cradle1.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/30685452/Cradle2.jpg

I pondered how to stack things. If I place the sub frame below the bed, then the body line between cab and bed goes out of whack. In order to gain the required spacing between cab and camper overhang (3" minimum) I need to stack about 80+ mm (around 3 1/8") platform under the camper. I need about 100mm (around 4") for the intended sub frame. Then I wondered if I should remove the bed altogether, and open up some storage space possibilities.

All these speculations come to nothing if I can't get any info on how to mount the camper to the sub frame/cradle so as to ensure that it doesn't rip apart at the seams.
 

redthies

Renaissance Redneck
Then I wondered if I should remove the bed altogether, and open up some storage space.

This is the route I would take if it were my project. Going with this method frees you of trying to force things to work, and should simplify your engineering.

I want to put a pass through window in the front of my camper like 99% of older campers had, but I don't hold out much hope that the manufacturer will be of any help with information on whether or not it can be done...
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
All these speculations come to nothing if I can't get any info on how to mount the camper to the sub frame/cradle so as to ensure that it doesn't rip apart at the seams.

Well, it doesn't seem like an insurmountable problem.

If we assume that everything which would normally be outside the bed requires no extra support, then the answer is pretty simple - build a box to hold it. That is, after all, what the bed is.

But since the bed isn't a very tight box, as evidenced by what you said about the camper shifting around during rough use, then I suppose you would need a tighter box.

If you removed the bed, installed your torsion free mounting, and built a nice tight box to support the lower section of the camper, that would probably be sufficient.

You could also add external storage to the new "bed".

If you are using (what appears to be) the standard camper 4 point hold-down, then anything else you add in the way of attaching the camper (bolting it) to the new "bed" will just be extra added strength.

In which case, the only serious issue, would be making sure that your new added through-bolts actually go through structural members and not just skin and insulation. A typical stud-finder would probably suffice for that.
 

adam88

Explorer
I gave up on the 3 point system and am moving to simple solid mount on the rear and spring mounts on the front to allow some flex (not as much as a 3 point). Too much work for a 3 point and not enough gain for our 1 ton short wheel base trucks.
 

boblynch

Adventurer
We faced a similar problem attaching our camper to a custom flatbed. In the end we opted for spring mounts under the flatbed and external storage boxes between the flatbed and camper. The external storage is great.

Are you using any sort of pad in the bed between the bed and camper? We use heavy duty rubber mats designed for horse stalls. They provide some cushioning between bed and camper during loading and also help keep it from moving around. Also what type of tie downs are you using? We use HappiJac turnbuckles to connect the camper (from the factory tie down points) to the flatbed. The HappiJacs are spring mounted quick disconnect turnbuckles. With the rubber mats and turnbuckles the camper stays in place nicely.

Be careful mounting to anything other than the stock tie down points. Most truck campers are not designed to have stress added with other tiedowns. I've seen some added in odd places rip the camper wall apart.

Best of luck.
 
Thanks all for the input. It seems like a torsion free flatbed is the most sensible way to go. I use a similar rubber mat, sold locally for cow stalls, to line the bed. As for tie downs, I have been using chains and turnbuckles, but changed the front tie downs to elastic nylon rope, one pr. front tie down and one pr front leg bracket. It looks like I have a winter project on my hands.
 

BillTex

Adventurer
As for tie downs, I have been using chains and turnbuckles, but changed the front tie downs to elastic nylon rope, one pr. front tie down and one pr front leg bracket.

Where are the tie downs anchored now? Bed or frame?
Have you looked at Happijack system...they are bed anchored so the camper will flex with the truck.

We use Torklift system (which is frame mounted, and stronger) but may not be the best option for off-road travel (we do not do any serious off-road with the camper on...).

Bill
 
The anchors are frame mounted. On my list of things to do is to remove the camper and fix a camera and laser pointer to the rear of the bed to see if I can determine just how much the thing flexes. All I know so far from experience is that it is too much for the camper and tie downs as they are. Sprung tie downs aren't really an option as it allows the camper to wobble on the bed, ultimately leading to failure.
 

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