Building an expedition CJ2A Stude-Jeep

Ian

New member
I've had a 1948 (mostly) CJ2A (again, mostly) for about 2 years now, and have finally been able to start working on it. Here's what I started with:

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It did run, but not very well. It smoked all the time (from a wrist pin backing out and gouging the #6 cylinder wall), had no brake pressure, popped out of 2nd gear, and overheated. Plus all the small problems you would expect in a 60-year-old vehicle.

Well, now I've got a garage to work in and I can start fixing things.

The Jeep has a 1950 Studebaker Champion engine in it. It's a flathead 6-cylinder, 169 cubic inches. It will provide 85HP and 138 lbft torque, which is about a 35% increase over the stock Jeep engine. It is just as simple to work on as the original L-head, and bolts right up to a T-90 transmission.

The drivetrain is otherwise stock - a 3-speed T90, Dana 18 transfer case, Dana 25 and 41 axles (5:38). The rear springs have been replaced with Rancho 1" lift units, and the front springs are originals, with broken leafs and hose clamps holding them together.

My plan for this rebuild is not to get into technical rock crawling, or playing in mud. I want a vehicle that I can take down rural dirt tracks and BLM roads, and turn off anywhere to go explore. I want a vehicle compact enough to go where most people can't, and with the endurance to spend a week out in the boonies. I want to be able to take a camping trip as a spur of the moment decision.

To that end, I'm leaving the drivetrain as it is. I like the Studebaker, for its power and simplicity and also for its uniqueness. I don't need the newest, beefiest axles or the softest suspension - I'd rather keep what I have, and be out on the trails that much sooner. I will be making some mechanical modifications - bigger brakes, all 12V electronics, and maybe improved steering. And the drivetrain will be inspected and rebuilt where necessary. But most of the modifications will be to the body.

I will be mounting a propane burner and a small sink in the tailgate, and a small propane tank and fresh water tank in the rear fenderwells. Better output lights for night driving, and a second battery. A small DC water pump for the sink, and a showerhead that can be clamped to the rollbar for use in camp. A shortwave radio and GPS mounted into the dashboard, and a small inverter for running AC appliances. Storage space everywhere I can squeeze it in, a good set of spare parts, and a thorough tool set (you can just about completely strip a 2A with 4 wrenches). Edit - Forgot to mention, also a CJ5 gas tank in the rear in addition to the stock tank, for a total of 25 gallons onboard, plus any cans mounted on the back or top.

There are a whole lot of fancy modern Expo builds here, and I think it would be cool to sneak in a thread about my old-fashioned version. :smiley_drive:
 
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Ian

New member
So once I had the Jeep in a garage, I started by stripping it down:

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I was a bit worried how the frame would look, because it has some pretty boogery welding at the front and back ends. But to my happy surprise, the main section of the frame looks to be in fine shape. No cracks or serious rust. The tub is in pretty sorry shape, but I have a spare and a small welder (what could possibly go wrong?).

I tore down the steering box, and found it in pretty good shape. It's not original; someone rebuilt it at some point. Haven't checked the condition of the steering arms yet, though. I'm debating a change to a better type of manual steering.

The 9" brakes worked alright once I refilled the brake fluid, but I definitely want to get better ones. I have new 11" front brakes, and will be picking up 11" rears shortly. While I have them off, I'll be repacking the wheel bearings and probably replacing all the brake lines. A new dual brake cylinder is also likely. Haven't decided whether to use the original parking brake or fit one to the rear wheels instead (my new rear brakes will have the holes to accommodate this).

The differentials both look very nice. The read diff cover is dinged and dented up the wazoo - all from the inside. Someone clearly grenaded the rear differential, and then rebuilt both.

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More to come when I get the new front brakes installed.
 

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Root Moose

Expedition Leader
Love flatties.

Consider doing front disks? It's a bolt on thing IIRC.

Also, it appears you have extra diagonal cross-members in the rear of the frame. Does this Jeep have a towing setup or a rear PTO?
 

Hill Bill E.

Oath Keeper
Also, it appears you have extra diagonal cross-members in the rear of the frame. Does this Jeep have a towing setup or a rear PTO?

Standard on the 2A. It's acually a "V" culminating where the pintle hitch bolts on. Some did (do) have the rear PTO set ups.

Here's a (somewhat) better shot of the rear of the frame showing the 'V'

S5300015.jpg
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
My thoughts:

Manual 4 wheel discs are as simple of a swap as the 11" drums using later CJ parts and will work much better than the drums. A friend did this on his 2A and ended up not needing the proportioning valve that he installed, so it was removed. With the stock master cylinder location it will want a 2lbs. RPV.

Go with a Saginaw steering box located up front, even if you stay with a manual box. Eliminate a bunch of monkey-motion and get a strong, robust steering box in the process.

A supple suspension will make riding in the 2A all that much more enjoyable. I would consider moving to YJ application springs if they're easy enough to make work. If not, research how to make leaf springs have less internal friction, it will pay off.
Buy quality shocks. Need not be a mono-tube (Bilstein et. al.), but those would be better.

Find a Warn OD.

Convert the D18 to the largest idler gear shaft using the stronger D20 case with various mix-n-match D18 & D20 parts. Potentially even better would be to use the O'Brien tapered bearing conversion, but for ~85 HP that might be overkill.
 

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