Buying an XJ/ZJ, what should I watch out for?

TMPhoto

Observer
Finally sold my old DD, getting ready to go check out some XJs and ZJs. My question is what should I watch out for. Are there any typical failures? Year models I should avoid? Are there multiple 4WD systems and one I should try to get my hands on? Do any of them have history of auto trans problems? Should I even consider an auto? Any spots on the frame or suspension I should examine for known defects?

I plan on doing at least a 3.5" lift and I would like to do some mildly agressive crawling but mostly Overland type stuff. Leaning more towards a 4.0L XJ right now but if I can find a decently priced ZJ I would not oppose it as they are a bit more comfortable.

So help me out, I've got 3 XJs on Craigslist I'm going to try to check out this weekend.
 

jeepdreamer

Expedition Leader
Any XJ '91 or newer. Avoid the Dana 35 if at all humanly possible! The 4.0/AW4/NP231or242 is a good combo. 4.0 tends to crack the factory exhaust header near the collector around 80-150k miles. Also usually start leaking from the rear main seal around those times too. AW4 is near bomb proof... and I dislike autos. :) Kinda a toss up between the 231 and the 242 t-cases... I think more after market suppost for the 231 but no big deal. Lots of folks start to wrap their heads around the high vs low pinion front axle... I don't really see why. Its ok either way but not the end all to die for.
I'd prefer the XK over the Grand for a couple reasons. There is more after market support for them. They are usually cheaper. They are a little lighter. And they have a lot less plastic. Good luck with your search!
 

jeep-N-montero

Expedition Leader
You can lift the ZJ cheaper and have more articulation, plus more room, plus more style, plus a bigger gas tank, plus....I give up. Look at the 96-98 models with the 4.0 and Selec-Trac(242) transfer case if you don't intend to tow much. Factory tow package gave you 3.73 gears and transmission cooler, plenty to run 31x10.50 tires. If you get the V8 plan on swapping in the 242 transfer case, it's very easy to do and worth it. Inquire about transmission services, they can last if taken care of. I will think of more later.
 

ryandavenport

Adventurer
I would opt for the XJ. They got away from many of the problems that the ZJs have. I had a ZJ, so I'm not just in here making stuff up. My first issue was the transmission. If you get the 4.0, you get the 42re, which means you get a good engine but bad transmission. If you get the V8, you get the good transmission, an alright engine, but the sucky transfer case. Also, the steering setup on ZJs was prone to death wobble after minor suspension upgrades. I'm not 100% sure on this, but I'm fairly certain that the XJs got a different setup. Either way, good luck with what you get, and focus on preventative maintenance over mods.
 

Doctor W

Adventurer
I would opt for the XJ. They got away from many of the problems that the ZJs have. I had a ZJ, so I'm not just in here making stuff up. My first issue was the transmission. If you get the 4.0, you get the 42re, which means you get a good engine but bad transmission. If you get the V8, you get the good transmission, an alright engine, but the sucky transfer case. Also, the steering setup on ZJs was prone to death wobble after minor suspension upgrades. I'm not 100% sure on this, but I'm fairly certain that the XJs got a different setup. Either way, good luck with what you get, and focus on preventative maintenance over mods.

Steering set up is EXACTLY the same on both!....and TJ's too.....ZJ V8's have got a heavier wall centre link section which are often swapped into 4.0L ZJ's, XJ's and TJ's.

The 249 T-case is strong, but the viscous coupling can fail at high mileages (especially when run with non-matching tires front and back!!) and cause lock-up between the front and back. The 242 is strong and can be used FT or PT 4WD Hi and Lo in both or 2WD, 231 is a basic 2WD or PT 4WD hi/lo only.

Agreed that there's ultimately more available for an XJ, but there's enough available for ZJ's to make a good overlander.....and you've got a bit more room and comfort.....also I prefer the 4 coil suspension of the ZJ's for handling, ride, flex etc.
 

bob91yj

Resident **************
For what it's worth, we ran a 249 in our Baja 1000 winning Wrangler (2010 Peninsula run, 1200+ miles) . Rules spec that it must be an available Jeep transfer case. Our crew chief modified a 249 for a slip yoke eliminator, other than that it was bone stock. We went with the 249 just for the viscous coupling. Our car pulled better through the corners in 4wd, but the differential gears took a beating absorbing the driveline shock loads when one end of the car landed before the other in a jump when using a 231, which has no front to rear slip in 4wd. We ran the same tcase in the Vegas to Reno races and other shorter stateside races with no issues.

Obviously most Expo type drivers aren't going to jump their rig or run it under race conditions for 1200 miles, just speaking for the durability of the tcase. We had a Marlin Crawler built AX-15 in front of the tcase (shamelss plug)!
 

Doctor W

Adventurer
For what it's worth, we ran a 249 in our Baja 1000 winning Wrangler (2010 Peninsula run, 1200+ miles) . Rules spec that it must be an available Jeep transfer case. Our crew chief modified a 249 for a slip yoke eliminator, other than that it was bone stock. We went with the 249 just for the viscous coupling. Our car pulled better through the corners in 4wd, but the differential gears took a beating absorbing the driveline shock loads when one end of the car landed before the other in a jump when using a 231, which has no front to rear slip in 4wd. We ran the same tcase in the Vegas to Reno races and other shorter stateside races with no issues.

Obviously most Expo type drivers aren't going to jump their rig or run it under race conditions for 1200 miles, just speaking for the durability of the tcase. We had a Marlin Crawler built AX-15 in front of the tcase (shamelss plug)!

Yeah I really like the 249 too.....and if the VC fails it'll give plenty of warning and fail in a good way - give you lock up front to rear!.....if my VC goes I'll definetly replace the VC only, not swap in a 242 or 231!
 

Doctor W

Adventurer
I plan on doing at least a 3.5" lift and I would like to do some mildly agressive crawling but mostly Overland type stuff. .

If a ZJ, I would suggest a 2" or 2 1/2" lift....heaps less complicated and less expensive when you fully look into it(ARB Old Man Emu do a great 2" lift kit!) ..... that size lift will fit 31x10.5 x15's or if you get a ZJ Limited, get 245/75x16's - also 31", in either case Load Range "E" (10 ply rating) tires are the way to go for exploration/offroad use. A 75% profile tire handles really well on highways - heaps better than the tall U.S. inch spec tires! But U.S. inch spec tires air down a bit better and are more common (and cheaper???). I've got 245/75x 16's (approx. 9.5" wide) and would think that the 31x10.5's will need a different offset rim to clear lower arms etc when near full lock - or adjust up the steering stops which will increase your turning circle.

You should also consider the "Front to Rear Spring Swap with new +3 1/2" Front Springs" search/Google it........or consider a front to rear spring swap and fit +2 1/2" new fronts, even less complicated (although Jeep will now be "raked" front to rear, but OK when packed full of gear!).....only needs the front Caster adjusted up to Max then and you can drive it!
 
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TMPhoto

Observer
Any XJ '91 or newer. Avoid the Dana 35 if at all humanly possible! The 4.0/AW4/NP231or242 is a good combo.
AW4 is near bomb proof... and I dislike autos. :)
Kinda a toss up between the 231 and the 242 t-cases...

OK Forgive me I'm new to both the offroading world AND the Jeep world (I come from lowered VWs and track-prepped Toyota/Hondas :Wow1: )
So all these terms you're throwing at me are a little hard to follow at first...I feel like such a noob

I'm assuming the Dana 35 only came in 90 and older XJs? So thats easy to weed those out..

AW4/NP are what?

Definetly want the 4.0 in an XJ, I've heard so many good things about them and my dad owned two XJs when we were little, one auto, one manual, sold them both to save gas and because the headliner was falling in on the auto but they were perfectly mechanically sound when we sold them. So I'm partial to that motor and overall vehicle...

Contrasting I look the ZJ as well for its niceties and my friend had a V8 ZJ I was quite fond of in high school. So if I got a ZJ I'd probably want the V8. The other thing I like about ZJ's is the four corner coil suspension, not a fan of leafs coming from the car world haha.
What exactly is so bad about the tcase the V8 came with?

Also, how can I tell which tcase/trans are in these cars when I go to inspect them? I gaurantee these owners aren't going to know. They probably dont even know how many damn cylinders it has! Trying to get my hands on an unmolested Jeep that someone was just using as a daily driver and serviced regularly.
 

Doctor W

Adventurer
OK Forgive me I'm new to both the offroading world AND the Jeep world (I come from lowered VWs and track-prepped Toyota/Hondas :Wow1: )
So all these terms you're throwing at me are a little hard to follow at first...I feel like such a noob

I'm assuming the Dana 35 only came in 90 and older XJs? So thats easy to weed those out..

AW4/NP are what?

Definetly want the 4.0 in an XJ, I've heard so many good things about them and my dad owned two XJs when we were little, one auto, one manual, sold them both to save gas and because the headliner was falling in on the auto but they were perfectly mechanically sound when we sold them. So I'm partial to that motor and overall vehicle...

Contrasting I look the ZJ as well for its niceties and my friend had a V8 ZJ I was quite fond of in high school. So if I got a ZJ I'd probably want the V8. The other thing I like about ZJ's is the four corner coil suspension, not a fan of leafs coming from the car world haha.
What exactly is so bad about the tcase the V8 came with?

Also, how can I tell which tcase/trans are in these cars when I go to inspect them? I gaurantee these owners aren't going to know. They probably dont even know how many damn cylinders it has! Trying to get my hands on an unmolested Jeep that someone was just using as a daily driver and serviced regularly.

I'll try and answer your Q's in order.....

Dana 35 rear diff/axles came in both non-C clip (very early) and C-clip designs (post 94?) in nearly all(not those with Heavy Duty tow package - these had the strong Dana 44) XJ's till about 97 then the Chrysler Corp. 8.25" was used a better diff..... All ABS XJ's had Dana 35's, so 97 to 01 had either 8.25" or D35. The main fault with D35's is the very skinny axle shafts that snap and with a C-clip design you lose the whole wheel and axle stump off the car....this can be VERY inconvenient! There are fixes, you can buy 40% stronger alloy shafts or 110% stronger thicker alloy shafts and larger bearings - but you also need a new diff centre. You can also get C-clip eliminator kits that convert it to a standard pressed-on bearing and bolt on axle. You still have thin wall axle tubes and a semi-flexible casing.......Having said all those horrible things I never had a problem or broke an axle - they mostly snap when used with auto lockers ("lunch box lockers") - so don't fit auto lockers! I changed to alloy shafts when the axle shafts were scored by bad bearings and I've got an manual locker and the standard LSD. Later ZJ V8's had the Dana 44HD also called the Dana 44A because the centre is aluminium and prone to cracking, axle tubes are a press fit and can bend or break casing, internals and shafts are strong but different to the Dana 44 and there is very little after market support for the D44A, e.g. no lockers made for it.

AW4 = Aisin-Warner Type 40 auto transmission a very good tranny fitted to all auto 4.0L XJ's....you can't manually select for downhill engine breaking, it'll shift up to 2.

Only early 4.0L ZJ's had AW4's, later ones had the Chrysler 42RE, an OK-ish auto with a better manual selection of all gears and selectable Overdrive. V8 ZJ's had the strong 46RE a heavy duty version. These are modern versions of the Torqueflite 727, with electronic controls.

NP = New Process, later became NV, New Venture (same thing exactly), the manufacturers of all transfer cases in Jeeps of this era, and many other U.S. makes. XJ's had either NP231 or NP242 transfer cases, ZJ 4.0L's had either NP231, 242 or 249 types. ZJ V8's usually came with 249 type, but you can find all 3 types in ZJ's and you can swap all of them into any XJ or ZJ. Read posts above re. 249's. How to tell what's in a car? - Simple, look at the selector. A 231 will read 2WD -N- 4WD Hi - 4WD Lo. A 242 will read 2WD- N - 4WD PT- 4WD FT- 4WD Lo. A 249 will have Hi Full Time - N - 4WD Lo, in 4WD Hi there is automatic centre differential action via a viscous coupling, in 4WD Lo the viscous coupling is mechanically locked up post 96 (pre 96 it continues to function)

The 4.0 is a great engine and very tough and longlasting, quite powerful in the standard light XJ. The 4.0 in the ZJ was tuned for more low down torque according to Jeep. The 4.0 is adequate in ZJ's but longer lasting than the more powerful 5.2/318 V8 (approx 30 h.p. more) or the rarer 5.9/360 V8 ( +50 h.p.). The V8's use more fuel, but not much more in a heavily loaded ZJ. The later 4.7 V8 (totally new design) in WJ's is not an engine I would choose for longevity and toughness.

You're right about the 4 coils on ZJ's, plus they had 4 wheel discs (pre 94 had rear drums) with ABS, the Limiteds had better seats with 12-way electrics and some useful stuff like the EVIC to monitor a lot of fluid levels, functions etc and a trip computer.

Good luck, I hope this helped.
 
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TMPhoto

Observer
Thanks Doc! That helped tremendously.

So it seems I would want a ZJ...and its not because it is a better vehicle or anything like that, it just has most of the things I want already. Coil springs, ABS, disc brakes, electric (even heated) seats, more space, more engine choices, better auto trans (in the V8), and a more modern OBD system.

The XJs advantages, IMO, are the availability of parts, power to weight ratio, better auto trans, and initial ground clearence. As well as it being a better looking rig IMO just love that box look...

The next thing to consider is price. Obviously the ZJ's are going for a little more, especially the Limiteds, than the XJs. But most of the XJs I'm finding are 190K+ where I'm finding some nice ZJs in my price range with anywhere from 80-130K.

So the search continues, I'm still going to go and check out these few local XJs just to wet my whistle but I'm kind of setting my sights on a V8 ZJ at this point.

I'm sure I'll have more questions and this is probably a great thread for the search engines with all this info so I'll keep you all posted on my expedition to find a Jeep that will take me on further expeditions!

Please, if you have anything else to add on the subject, chime in, no such thing as too little information or too little opinions.
 

Doctor W

Adventurer
Thanks Doc! That helped tremendously.

So it seems I would want a ZJ...and its not because it is a better vehicle or anything like that, it just has most of the things I want already. Coil springs, ABS, disc brakes, electric (even heated) seats, more space, more engine choices, better auto trans (in the V8), and a more modern OBD system.

The XJs advantages, IMO, are the availability of parts, power to weight ratio, better auto trans, and initial ground clearence.

An excellent precise "executive summary" !
 
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jeep-N-montero

Expedition Leader
I'll try and answer your Q's in order.....

Dana 35 rear diff/axles came in both non-C clip (very early) and C-clip designs (post 94?) in nearly all(not those with Heavy Duty tow package - these had the strong Dana 44) XJ's till about 97 then the Chrysler Corp. 8.25" was used a better diff..... All ABS XJ's had Dana 35's, so 97 to 01 had either 8.25" or D35. The main fault with D35's is the very skinny axle shafts that snap and with a C-clip design you lose the whole wheel and axle stump off the car....this can be VERY inconvenient! There are fixes, you can buy 40% stronger alloy shafts or 110% stronger thicker alloy shafts and larger bearings - but you also need a new diff centre. You can also get C-clip eliminator kits that convert it to a standard pressed-on bearing and bolt on axle. You still have thin wall axle tubes and a semi-flexible casing.......Having said all those horrible things I never had a problem or broke an axle - they mostly snap when used with auto lockers ("lunch box lockers") - so don't fit auto lockers! I changed to alloy shafts when the axle shafts were scored by bad bearings and I've got an manual locker and the standard LSD. Later ZJ V8's had the Dana 44HD also called the Dana 44A because the centre is aluminium and prone to cracking, axle tubes are a press fit and can bend or break casing, internals and shafts are strong but different to the Dana 44 and there is very little after market support for the D44A, e.g. no lockers made for it.

AW4 = Aisin-Warner Type 40 auto transmission a very good tranny fitted to all auto 4.0L XJ's....you can't manually select for downhill engine breaking, it'll shift up to 2.

Only early 4.0L ZJ's had AW4's, later ones had the Chrysler 42RE, an OK-ish auto with a better manual selection of all gears and selectable Overdrive. V8 ZJ's had the strong 46RE a heavy duty version. These are modern versions of the Torqueflite 727, with electronic controls.

NP = New Process, later became NV, New Venture (same thing exactly), the manufacturers of all transfer cases in Jeeps of this era, and many other U.S. makes. XJ's had either NP231 or NP242 transfer cases, ZJ 4.0L's had either NP231, 242 or 249 types. ZJ V8's usually came with 249 type, but you can find all 3 types in ZJ's and you can swap all of them into any XJ or ZJ. Read posts above re. 249's. How to tell what's in a car? - Simple, look at the selector. A 231 will read 2WD -N- 4WD Hi - 4WD Lo. A 242 will read 2WD- N - 4WD PT- 4WD FT- 4WD Lo. A 249 will have Hi Full Time - N - 4WD Lo, in 4WD Hi there is automatic centre differential action via a viscous coupling, in 4WD Lo the viscous coupling is mechanically locked up post 96 (pre 96 it continues to function)

The 4.0 is a great engine and very tough and longlasting, quite powerful in the standard light XJ. The 4.0 in the ZJ was tuned for more low down torque according to Jeep. The 4.0 is adequate in ZJ's but longer lasting than the more powerful 5.2/318 V8 (approx 30 h.p. more) or the rarer 5.9/360 V8 ( +50 h.p.). The V8's use more fuel, but not much more in a heavily loaded ZJ. The later 4.7 V8 (totally new design) in WJ's is not an engine I would choose for longevity and toughness.

You're right about the 4 coils on ZJ's, plus they had 4 wheel discs (pre 94 had rear drums) with ABS, the Limiteds had better seats with 12-way electrics and some useful stuff like the EVIC to monitor a lot of fluid levels, functions etc and a trip computer.

Good luck, I hope this helped.

I will correct this in the morning.
 

TMPhoto

Observer
Black ZJ, I await your correction! Haha
Just found a white 96 limited 5.2 with tow package,new tires, and extra roof racks for 4500. I feel like 3600-4000 would be a more fair price at 132K, yah?
Also, garage kept

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 

lamontagne

Adventurer
Oh boy...

If I were to build a killer trail ZJ here is what I would do....

Start with a 1994-1997 with 4.0, the V8's arent worth the weight penalty and they get worse milage than the 4.0. I would then swap in a Ford 8.8 rear axle, factory disks, 31 (or 30?) spline axles. Then I would get a front Dana 30 from a 1994-1995 XJ with ABS. They are hi-pinion, non-disconnect, and use Dana 44 sized U-joints. Best part, it bolts right in! I would just use a hack-n-tap SYE for the 242 and use an XJ front drive shaft cut down to fit in the rear.
For suspension I would run a 3.5 kit ($$$$=Currie, $$=Rock Krawler). Its low enough to not need long arms, but high enough to run 265/75-16's with a little fender trimming.
Ditch as much plastic as possible. The front plastic is cosmetic only. Put some steel front and rear.
For inspiration, there is a local guy here, Kevin, who caters to all things ZJ...www.kevinsoffroad.com
 

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