Clifford, the big red burb!

zukrider

Explorer
Im BACK!!!!!!!! and this time, im bringing barn doors! my first burb was to good a deal to pass up, but it had a tailgate. i was tricked into thinking that barn doors swap onto tailgate bodies. well, mine wouldnt. so i got rid of it. ill have $450 in this to start!

Im getting another burb! trading my recently acquired K10. this works for me, as i always have been a burb lover. man is it red though!

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so it plays out like this. it needs head gaskets. pouring water into the engine. no big deal. in the last 3 years, the front and rear ends have been gone through, and i believe the trans as well. so HG and it should be good to go.

plans for now:
own it
do the head gaskets
plate it
test it.

Future:
-52"/56" spring swap
-d60/14ff 4.56 gears, welded front, ARB rear
-40" tires
-sliders
-bumpers
-6bt/zf6/203/205

and of course some expo like stuff! now that i have the burb i want, doing the rear layout and camper mods will be fun!
 

xpndbl3

Adventurer
well measure it up. My suburban already has the 3/4 ton rear springs and the ride is great with a shackle flip from diy4x, just need some softer front springs than the pro comps I run now.
 

mr250twostroke

New member
Spending the money for an Arb and putting it in the rear, then welding the front? I'm sure you'll find that's a bad idea before you do it but... Your planned build sounds like a good start otherwise.
 

DT75FLH

Adventurer
In the rock crawling group I wheel with. thats the common way vs locked rear with arb up front. with the wheelbase of the burb the locked front and open rear will get you farther and let you turn a little tighter.

with the locked front you tend to use the rear locker less then if its the other way around. my current burb is welded up front (track lock broke ) and has a detroit in the rear.
 

zukrider

Explorer
^^^ this!

the open in rear is for snow roads, which are quite common around here. i have yet to need 4x4 for snowy roads. the welded front is cheap, and works awesome. to be honest though, i will most likely do selectable for both. we will see.
 

zukrider

Explorer
Well, it is in the driveway! will start the head gaskets in a week or so hopefully. then get it legal and on the road. next up will be the lift and roof rack!

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mr250twostroke

New member
With the 203/205 in your plans twin sticking the 205 will let you make tight turns. My burb is an Arb front, detroit rear and works flawlessly in the snow. I cannot imagine welding the front on anything that isn't striclty a trail rig. My trail only blazer with twin sticked doubler is welded front/rear with hydro assist and I would rather have a lockright upfront (which it will get).
 

zukrider

Explorer
the roof rack is going to be 8'x4' or 10'x4' and 8" tall. still in the planning stages, but i am leaning towards a 1" .120 outer frame with 1" .088 cross bar flooring. may include .120 every third cross.

it will incorporate a plan ive had for years to make a "legless" awning. when deployed, it will incorporate both sides and the rear as well, with 1 canvas cover. it will extend 8' out to the sides, and 8' out to the rear, making the corners stick out almost 12'. i just started the real planning last night on sketch up, but i have no clue how to show it to anyone.

when not deployed, the cover will fold up, and the arms will swing in and lock in place. i realize the tarp portion will end up bulky, but i dont see a way to counter this yet. input is welcome!
 

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