Congo cage problems

[kodiak1232003]

went on an extended trip up to simi valley last night (its 1am and we just got home)with xjmikes cargo rack on the CongoCage from kargomaster.

well, long story short, this sucker(the congo cage) was moving/bucking like crazy with only about 130-150lbs up there. (rack + small spare tire)

and this is driving on the 15 north, which is a fairly smooth highway. i can imagine what it woulda done on a gravel/washboard road...

anyone had one of these that was a mover and a shaker? they're rated at 500lbs dynamic supposedly. I swear if i put another 50-100lbs up there(i.e. a couple gas cans or a cooler) that sucker woulda ripped right off its mounts


very unhappy. I just got that cargo rack from mike, and now i may not be able to use it.

 

[grahamfitter]

I think the rack is supposed to move - otherwise it wouldn't have the rubber shock absorber washers at the front. Mine bounces around a bit with about 100 lb load. Dirt, highway and regular badly potholed Mass. local roads all have the same effect but the front struts have never got worryingly close to the windshield.

The instructions specify that you put the nuts on the outside where the front struts join the crossbar. I suspect that's to make sure the nut is not the first thing to touch after a rough and unexpected landing!

I wonder if the longer LJ rack would move around more than a TJ?

Cheers,
Graham

 

[BigAl]

Can you put up a picture of the mounts? Is there any way to reinforce?

 

[hrjaw]

I had one on my 97 TJ for almost two years and never had an issue. in fact, we had a major wind storm and my neighbors tree fell on top of the jeep. the rack is the only thing that saved the jeep. maybe the mounts have loosened?

 

[kodiak1232003]

Can you put up a picture of the mounts? Is there any way to reinforce?

here's a pic of the fronts...

 

[kodiak1232003]

I had one on my 97 TJ for almost two years and never had an issue. in fact, we had a major wind storm and my neighbors tree fell on top of the jeep. the rack is the only thing that saved the jeep. maybe the mounts have loosened?

good story!

i tightened all the bolts yesterday, mid trip, and it still moved when we hit corrugations on the road.

 

[ExpoMike]

Hummm... interesting. I really did not look at the way the bars mounted. I am surprised they are rubber and not a solid, metal to metal type mount.

Is it just bouncing up and down or is it more swaying side to side? I wonder if there is a way to triangulate the bars on top (like welding extra bars) between the two sides to keep it from moving side to side. If it's more of an up and down motion, I am thinking the rubber "washers" allow too much movement. Maybe fabbing up some urathane (sp?) replacements which will allow a little flex and vibration isolation but be firmer then rubber.

Pondering...

 

[ntsqd]

here's a pic of the fronts...

My first thot is that those anchor brackets are not well designed. They need to be more rigid if they are to withstand the loads and not break the tabs off the baseplates. Which is sad because there's room for those tabs to extend up the front of the plates. I'd take them to nearly the top. And then drill some holes in the horizontal part and in the added gussets near the plate to allow drainage.

If there is no triangulation in the tubular structure then it is going to move around quite a bit. If you add triangulation do so carefully. Consider that the load pathes do not want to be discontinous. Think of the load as water flowing thru the tubes. You want the "water" to make it the anchor points with the least changes in direction and restriction as possible.
Then make sure that the doors open.......

 

[Fifthpro]

I have had a Kargo Roof Rack forever on my TJ. I put some serious loads on my rack and have not//not experienced the symptoms that you are suffering from. I do have an older model and had to replace the font mounting brackets because of a sever rust problem......dealing with their customer service was not fun or timely and they did not want to do it but enough forceful talk and quoting their posted warranty left them with sending me new brackets.

I would have to say that something is not right with your rack. A review of their warranty here shows that you have a case:

"LIFTETIME FRAME WARRANTY: If your product cracks, bend , buckles, or structurally fails in any way, Kargo Master, at its option and expense, will either replace or repair the product."

Sounds like you have structurally failure...I just hope they are more responsive to your complaint.

Cheers!

 

[kodiak1232003]

I think the rack is supposed to move - otherwise it wouldn't have the rubber shock absorber washers at the front. Mine bounces around a bit with about 100 lb load. Dirt, highway and regular badly potholed Mass. local roads all have the same effect but the front struts have never got worryingly close to the windshield.

The instructions specify that you put the nuts on the outside where the front struts join the crossbar. I suspect that's to make sure the nut is not the first thing to touch after a rough and unexpected landing!

I wonder if the longer LJ rack would move around more than a TJ?

Cheers,
Graham

ok...so i talked to the dudes @ kargomaster. not a bad conversation at all.

here's the scoop
1. "movement is normal. you should see about 3/4" movement at the most. any more than that and its bad. they made them rigid at first and had problems with the mounts ripping through the body in the rear and tweeking the windshield"

2. "we had the rubber gaskets out at first, but guys with aggressive off-road tires complained of vibrations, so we added them. if you'd like you can remove them and try it that way to see if it stiffens up"

3. "the max load is 500lbs, on your model so the heavy duty roof rack shouldn't be a problem even loaded up with a couple hundred lbs of gear or several (2-3) people.


what say y'all

 

[kodiak1232003]

Hummm... interesting. I really did not look at the way the bars mounted. I am surprised they are rubber and not a solid, metal to metal type mount.

Is it just bouncing up and down or is it more swaying side to side? I wonder if there is a way to triangulate the bars on top (like welding extra bars) between the two sides to keep it from moving side to side. If it's more of an up and down motion, I am thinking the rubber "washers" allow too much movement. Maybe fabbing up some urathane (sp?) replacements which will allow a little flex and vibration isolation but be firmer then rubber.

Pondering...

the poly puck is a good idea. thanks, dude. I like the idea of extra gussets, too, since i've probably already voided my warranty by drilling and rotating the top tubes...lol.

 

[ExpoMike]

the poly puck is a good idea. thanks, dude. I like the idea of extra gussets, too, since i've probably already voided my warranty by drilling and rotating the top tubes...lol.

If you need some welding or fitting of extra bars/gussets, let me know and I will be happy to help out. As you saw, I have a welder or two...

 

[hrjaw]

good story!

i tightened all the bolts yesterday, mid trip, and it still moved when we hit corrugations on the road.

let me see ifI still have some pictures. it was an interesting day.

 

[grahamfitter]

2. "we had the rubber gaskets out at first, but guys with aggressive off-road tires complained of vibrations, so we added them. if you'd like you can remove them and try it that way to see if it stiffens up"

It sounds like they're saying if you make the front mounts less bouncy you will transfer more force to the rear mounts which are attached to unreinforced sheet metal. Reinforced rear corners might be a good idea.

Cheers,
Graham

 

[kodiak1232003]

It sounds like they're saying if you make the front mounts less bouncy you will transfer more force to the rear mounts which are attached to unreinforced sheet metal. Reinforced rear corners might be a good idea.

Cheers,
Graham

agreed. there is a good size through bolt through sheetmetal and 3 small screws tying into the taillights...thats it..