Conqueror Base Camp Electrical System Update

[scottma]

I am in the process of modifying the electrical system on my trailer and would like to know what other Base Camp owners have done. My transformer fried.

I am replacing the power transformer with a 45AMP AC to DC converter. The trick is finding one that will fit inside the original pannel. Has anyone else already done this? Would like to know what you used?

Plan to add a battery tender to the nose cone switched off the battery isolator switch on the pannel so I can maintain battery when trailer is not in use. Am also installing an IBS dual battery system to charge the trailer battery while driving.

If others have updated their Base Camp or have other ideas I would appreciate your input.

 

[Hilldweller]

I used a Blue Sea product in my Compact and boat charger; I just made everything as simple as possible. Even rigged up a 110 GFI box in the nose for when it was plugged in.
Worked great.

 

[dwh]

If you use a quality converter/charger - for instance an Iota, Samlex or Blue Sea - it will float charge the battery properly (and indefinitely) from shore power without overcharging and you won't need the Battery Tender.

If you use the Iota with IQ/4 module, it will do a proper 3-stage charge, and after 7 days at float, it will automatically drop back to bulk stage and run though a quicky 3-stage just to keep the battery properly topped up before it drops back to float for another 7 days.

 

[mtnbike28]

If I....

(Remember I am living in my Compact for 3 months)
So I have avoided using my built in charger and use a Battery Tender to charge the battery during the day and then unplug it and turn on the three switches (power, isolator and outlets) that turn on the lights at night. My fridge is plugged straight into 110.

Sometimes I forget to unplug the tender at night... any danger there?

TIA

 

[Hilldweller]

Sometimes I forget to unplug the tender at night... any danger there?

TIA

Nah.
But Battery Tenders are wussy compared to what dwh was describing or what I used. They don't have the amperage or technique to keep quality deep-cycle batteries happy.
If you can afford it, I'd upgrade the charger.

 

[cybercat]

Would this work to replace the unit.
http://www.twinsrecreation.com/br151-ilc3045.html

 

[dwh]

Would this work to replace the unit.
http://www.twinsrecreation.com/br151-ilc3045.html

That's a nice unit and the price seems pretty good. I dunno if a trailer really needs a full AC/DC distribution panel though. Will it fit?


As for the converter/charger part of that unit, the Iota converter/charger, by default, is a 2-stage charger. It will bulk charge the battery (constant current mode, i.e., puts out the full 45a) up to 13.6v and then switch to constant voltage mode (i.e., holds the voltage and lets the amps fall where they may) to float the battery indefinitely at 13.6v.

It comes with a jumper that can be plugged in to change the voltage set point to 14.2v if needed (usually not needed).

The optional IQ/4 module can be plugged in instead of the jumper, and that makes it into a full 3-stage charger with the little 7 day "equalization" bump.

2-stage is generally recommended if you have loads running while also charging the battery. 3-stage is generally recommended if charging only, with no loads running. Samlex converter/chargers have a dip switch to set them in either 2-stage or 3-stage.

The reason 2-stage is generally recommended if you are also running loads, is because 2-stage has only bulk stage and float stage. 3-stage chargers also have an absorption stage, where the voltage is held up a bit higher than the float stage, until the amps flowing into the battery drops off (usually below 1a), and then the charger drops to float.

However, if you are running a load greater than say 1a, it can fool the charger into never dropping to float (the amp flow never drops below 1a), and it stays in absorption mode and overcharges the battery.

But, the Iota IQ/4 module accounts for this, by setting an 8 hour timer on the absorption stage, so even with a load over 1a, it will drop to float anyway after 8 hours.

So you can - and should - use a 3-stage charger, even with loads running during charging, *IF* the charger has a timed absorption stage so it can't be fooled into staying in absorption mode and overcharging the battery. 3-stage will get the battery more fully charged than 2-stage, and the battery will not only provide more usable power in the field, it will live longer as well.

2-stage is really good. 3-stage is really really good.


If I were to use that Iota load center with converter/charger, I would definitely also order the IQ/4 module as well. Should be like 30 bucks I think.

 

[scottma]

Thank you very much for the input . I am leaning toward this unit. What do you think?

http://www.iotaengineering.com/dls45.htm

 

[scottma]

My plan is to pull out the existing power transformer and replace it with 45amp Iota with 3 stage charger. It should fit behind the pannel and I plan to use the exisiting breakers etc. I am going to add a needle volt meter to see exactly what the voltage is.

I am also thinking of adding a small inverter. Has anyone done this?

 

[Titanpat57]

I used that same Iota in both my builds and loved it.....



http://www.progressiverc.com/index.php/iota-dls-45-power-supply.html


No inverter here....I use a Honda ie2000 for Ac power, but also carry the 12v cables

 

[dwh]

Thank you very much for the input . I am leaning toward this unit. What do you think?

http://www.iotaengineering.com/dls45.htm

Those are good. You can buy the DLS chargers with the IQ/4 built-in, but I think I'd prefer the external module that plugs in. The external module has an LED on it which blinks differently for different modes, so you could mount it where you can see it and get some idea of what the charger is doing.

Plus, with the external module, you could unplug it if you ever needed to run in 2-stage mode, or if it fails, you can unplug it and still use the charger in 2-stage mode.

 

[dwh]

I am also thinking of adding a small inverter. Has anyone done this?

I have a 400w and a 1000w. I used to use the 400w to run my laptop, but now I have a netbook and a 12v lighter power adapter for it, so I never use the inverter anymore.

I also have a generator, so if I ever needed to use the inverter, it's just as easy to fire up the gen.

 

[cybercat]

That's a nice unit and the price seems pretty good. I dunno if a trailer really needs a full AC/DC distribution panel though. Will it fit?


As for the converter/charger part of that unit, the Iota converter/charger, by default, is a 2-stage charger. It will bulk charge the battery (constant current mode, i.e., puts out the full 45a) up to 13.6v and then switch to constant voltage mode (i.e., holds the voltage and lets the amps fall where they may) to float the battery indefinitely at 13.6v.

It comes with a jumper that can be plugged in to change the voltage set point to 14.2v if needed (usually not needed).

The optional IQ/4 module can be plugged in instead of the jumper, and that makes it into a full 3-stage charger with the little 7 day "equalization" bump.

2-stage is generally recommended if you have loads running while also charging the battery. 3-stage is generally recommended if charging only, with no loads running. Samlex converter/chargers have a dip switch to set them in either 2-stage or 3-stage.

The reason 2-stage is generally recommended if you are also running loads, is because 2-stage has only bulk stage and float stage. 3-stage chargers also have an absorption stage, where the voltage is held up a bit higher than the float stage, until the amps flowing into the battery drops off (usually below 1a), and then the charger drops to float.

However, if you are running a load greater than say 1a, it can fool the charger into never dropping to float (the amp flow never drops below 1a), and it stays in absorption mode and overcharges the battery.

But, the Iota IQ/4 module accounts for this, by setting an 8 hour timer on the absorption stage, so even with a load over 1a, it will drop to float anyway after 8 hours.

So you can - and should - use a 3-stage charger, even with loads running during charging, *IF* the charger has a timed absorption stage so it can't be fooled into staying in absorption mode and overcharging the battery. 3-stage will get the battery more fully charged than 2-stage, and the battery will not only provide more usable power in the field, it will live longer as well.

2-stage is really good. 3-stage is really really good.


If I were to use that Iota load center with converter/charger, I would definitely also order the IQ/4 module as well. Should be like 30 bucks I think.

The unit can be separated to accommodate other converters/chargers so this information is great.
What do you guys do for all the DC circuits?

 

[dwh]

What do you guys do for all the DC circuits?

My old camper van doesn't have many. It came with an aux fuse block that took two 20a glass fuses and was fed from the aux battery. It was fed by a 50a Bussmann Type 2 "modified reset" breaker.

But the fuse block was old, and open to the elements and under the hood, and after the 3rd or 4th time I had to clean the contacts, I just took it out and put in a couple of 20a Bussmann Type 2s.

I added a third circuit with a 30a Type 2 to feed my small 400w inverter and an extra 12v power socket.

All three of those circuits are still fed by the 50a breaker. You can find the Bussmann breakers at any auto parts store:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d60.html

I like the Type 2 "modified reset", because if it trips, it won't reset until power has been removed; In general, I don't like the idea of breakers that come back on before the problem has been checked. For specific applications I can see using a Type 1, but for most things - no.


There are also two other circuits - one to feed the little 3-way fridge if I should want to run it off 12v (never gonna happen) and one to feed the macerator pump on the black water tank. These both have inline fuses which work fine so I haven't messed with them.


EDIT: Off Topic... Not sure if you are aware of it, but spammers have search bot software (similar to what Google uses) which trolls the net and grabs email addresses. By posting your email address in clear un-obscured form, you turn your email account into a spam magnet. Spammers also sell each other lists of their collected addresses, so it's sort of like collection agencies - it'll just keep getting passed around until the energy death of the universe.

 

[scottma]

I picked up the DSL 55 and it fits great. I will order the external IQ4 later. I am also in process of installing IBS dual battery management system and need to decide on best cable to run from Battery in engine bay to trailer hitch . Thinking of using 4awg stranded Audio cable. what do you think?