CountryRoamer (DIY Hard-Side Truck Camper) Build Thread

[ReluctantTraveler]

Although you have mentioned removing the camper to (occasionally) use the flatbed, I think you would be better served by planning to leave the camper "permanently" attached.

Doing so might let you (go through some steps and then) register your rig as a motorhome, which might reduce registration fees and/or insurance fees.

Doing so would make it easier to have a pass-through from truck to camper. You might consider replacing the truck-cab's rear-window with an aluminum "frame". Essentially a piece of thick aluminum, with a hole cut out of it and a lip (for attaching a boot to your camper) welded on, that replaces your rear-window. When planning this, keep in mind that your rear-window (and windshield) are part of your rollover protection.

Doing so would allow you to bolt the camper body to the flatbed without having to worry about insects/water/... passing through the holes when dismounted.

While you are planning your under-flatbed boxes (for snowboards, tire chains, vented propane lockers, vented generator lockers, warm-weather water-jug lockers, ...), contact the manufacturer about also adding bolting points for your camper. It will likely be faster and cheaper than designing a fully custom flatbed.

If you want a pass-through, make sure to plan enough space in the "headache rack" of the flatbed.

That's the direction I'd been leaning (well, not so much the window piece, but a semi-permanent camper that can be removed).

I searched this forum but came up a bit short. How are those bolting points designed/attached to the camper itself? Are their external brackets? Are they under the floor boards? Something else?

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

See chapter 15 of "The Gougeon Brothers On Boat Construction book".

West System (Epoxy) makes the PDF (of the entire book) available for free. See the link on:

Gougeon Brothers On Boat Construction Book | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

Download a free PDF of the Gougeon Brothers On Boat Construction book in its entirety, or order it from Amazon.com.

www.westsystem.com

This was exactly the kind of thing I was looking for, thank you!

From my first pass, it sounds like I should:

1. Skip the "natural wood stripe," since it will require more maintenance and I don't want that.
2. Epoxy several layers
3. Apply several layers of UV-blocking, outdoor rated paint

One thing I didn't quite pick up: is there something I should apply over the paint to further protect it, or give it more of a glossy coating? Or is that a quality of the paint self?

Sounds like either way I'm going to need to periodically repaint unless I do a monstaliner type thing like IdaSHO'sdone.

 

[ITTOG]

This was exactly the kind of thing I was looking for, thank you!

From my first pass, it sounds like I should:

1. Skip the "natural wood stripe," since it will require more maintenance and I don't want that.
2. Epoxy several layers
3. Apply several layers of UV-blocking, outdoor rated paint

One thing I didn't quite pick up: is there something I should apply over the paint to further protect it, or give it more of a glossy coating? Or is that a quality of the paint self?

Sounds like either way I'm going to need to periodically repaint unless I do a monstaliner type thing like IdaSHO'sdone.

For your last question it is dependent on the paint you use. Some require a clear coat for protection and some do not.

 

[1000arms]

That's the direction I'd been leaning (well, not so much the window piece, but a semi-permanent camper that can be removed).

I searched this forum but came up a bit short. How are those bolting points designed/attached to the camper itself? Are there external brackets? Are they under the floor boards? Something else?

When I built the trailer I mentioned earlier in this thread, I welded mounting tabs on to the frame I built, and drilled through the flat 2"x6"s I had designed in to the camper. 6 good-sized grade 5 bolts/lock-washers/washers/nuts plus silicone through the holes and Loctite on the double nuts. (Yes, I used Loctite with double nuts. )

I suggest you work with your flatbed company to have them figure out where to weld mounting plates to flatbed. You could then design your camper with reinforced mounting points that allow you to safely bolt your camper to the flatbed.

Using one of their standard flatbed designs as a base should help keep costs down compared to modifying the heck out of something or building a custom flatbed from scratch.

You might want to look at @IdaSHO 's camper-flatbed mounting system. Just keep in mind that he also built his own truck bed.

 

[1000arms]

This was exactly the kind of thing I was looking for, thank you!

From my first pass, it sounds like I should:

1. Skip the "natural wood stripe," since it will require more maintenance and I don't want that.
2. Epoxy several layers
3. Apply several layers of UV-blocking, outdoor rated paint

One thing I didn't quite pick up: is there something I should apply over the paint to further protect it, or give it more of a glossy coating? Or is that a quality of the paint self?

Sounds like either way I'm going to need to periodically repaint unless I do a monstaliner type thing like IdaSHO'sdone.

For your last question it is dependent on the paint you use. Some require a clear coat for protection and some do not.

You are welcome! I encourage you to look through the entire The Gougeon Brothers On Boat Construction book.

West System Epoxy is well know and respected. The book will likely give you a better understanding on how you can glue together a light camper. It is a good resource, and they share the PDF for free.

Applying several coats of epoxy, on the same day at the right time, will allow for chemical bonding. After that has cured well, and been prepped for paint, apply several layers of the right paint. I would choose paint that doesn't require a clearcoat.

Or Monsatliner when the epoxy is fully cured and prepped.

 

[1000arms]

Hi y'all! I'm in the exploratory phase of building a DIY EarthRoamer/Tiger camper.

... Built on a gasser F-550 or Ram 5500 platform with a 12' steel flatbed ...

For winter driving, I suggest you consider Toyo 225/70R19.5 M920A tires.

"The M920A delivers superb all-weather traction and high mileage for year-round use in long haul, regional and urban operations. This unique tire features a Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake plus a wider tread width for even load distribution and improved stability. The deep tread ensures maximum mileage on pickup and delivery vehicles, while an N-speed rating matches OE specifications. Computer-optimized design, all-weather traction, and high mileage make the M920A the leading tire for pickup and delivery vehicles." from: https://www.toyotires.com/commercial-truck/tire/pattern/m920a/

 

[ReluctantTraveler]

For winter driving, I suggest you consider Toyo 225/70R19.5 M920A tires.

"The M920A delivers superb all-weather traction and high mileage for year-round use in long haul, regional and urban operations. This unique tire features a Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake plus a wider tread width for even load distribution and improved stability. The deep tread ensures maximum mileage on pickup and delivery vehicles, while an N-speed rating matches OE specifications. Computer-optimized design, all-weather traction, and high mileage make the M920A the leading tire for pickup and delivery vehicles." from: https://www.toyotires.com/commercial-truck/tire/pattern/m920a/

Thanks! I figured a good winter tire would be the trick.

 

[1000arms]

Thanks! I figured a good winter tire would be the trick.

You are welcome! ... They can be tougher to find in commercial truck tires than in consumer tires. ... I thought I would save you (and other members) some research.