Coupler Height

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Ok, another question I couldn't find the answer to by searching. Are people matching their coupler height with the trailer hitch? The answer seems obvious, but I'm wondering how everybody is doing it. Currently my frame center height is 20", but my hitch is 24", and when I build a steel bumper the hitch height will move up to 27".

Easy way out is to use a big drop hitch, but that's counter productive to having ground clearance while off-roading. My other option is to gooseneck the trailer tongue upwards. The last option is to not bother, and tow the trailer off-level, which looks silly and hurts departure angle on the trailer.
 

Root Moose

Expedition Leader
FWIW, my plan is to have the truck side end up where ever it may be and then adjust the trailer ride height to match.

$0.02
 

wely

Observer
in my few years of pulling trailers i have learned that the more on line the frame of the trailer is with the towing vehicle the better they work together. I have seen people pull trailers with jacked up trucks and a drop hitch. Usually we try to get out of their way as soon as possible. I have seen that the more offline the vehicle and trailer are the worse the sway. I have to assume that since you are building an offroad trailer and vehicle. having a drop hitch over three inches would not be adventagous to offroad ability.
 

lowenbrau

Explorer
It's worth considering how loaded the truck and trailer will be when choosing heights. What looks and works well unladen can be less good when loaded up and that's when you really want it to be on its best behavior.
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Hmmm... that's a good point about the loaded weight. The plan with the trailer is to keep as much stuff out of the truck as possible, and have it in the trailer. The trailer is being designed to balance well and won't have a ton of tongue weight. Probably 100-200lbs for off-roading, so I can expect 1" of sag on the back of the truck.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
The corollary to Lowenbrau's point is that you probably designed the trailer's loading with the frame level. Anything else will shift the weight around. Could be significant, and maybe it isn't. Would depend on the loading, but why deviate from the plan without good cause?
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Then what's the answer? Yes, I designed the trailer to assuming the frame is level, and I'd like to try and keep it level. Left to my own devices, I'm about to weld in a 4" gooseneck unless there are any better ideas. The only other option would be to have an adjustable height on the trailer end which would be neat, but not compatible with a LocknRoll.
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Just realized... I was planning on having two tongue tubes, one at 22" centered on the frame to be used for the van, and one at 27" to be used with the truck. But, the bottom tube will always be hanging low anyway. I might as well just use an adjustable drop hitch on the truck and save the trouble of the double tongue.
 

Box Rocket

Well-known member
Is it too late to change the frame height on your trailer? I don't know what suspension setup your using, but if it's leaf springs, you could just use some drop brackets on your spring hangers and a little longer shackle to raise your trailer up a little. You would negatively affect your COG ( a little) but you are increasing you ground clearance and getting closer to a level connection between your truck and trailer.
 

Box Rocket

Well-known member
Also, FWIW, I have a 3" drop hitch on the truck but with the lock-n-roll it balances out to be about even. I'm very happy with the height of my trailer compared to the truck, ended up very close to level and so far is behaving really well.

_MG_3500.jpg


_MG_3494.jpg
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Well, it's sorta too late, I've built the whole thing around a torsion axle suspension. I could throw some leaf springs under it, but that gets back to my original design compromise. I didn't want the trailer frame to be too high, because I'm limited on the top height to 59"" so that a tent top trailer will fit. If the frame is 27" off the ground, the body of the trailer is only 32" which started to get a bit limiting. I want a LOT of storage space.

So, that's why the frame is set where it is. The intent is to be a family basecamp trailer, not a rock crawling trailer.
 

socaljeeper

Adventurer
I had to use a drop hitch in order to level out my trailer. My reciever on my Jeep is too low for the trailer. My spare tire was getting in the way of removing the trailer from the coupler, so I had to move it up a few inches. Another thing that bugs me is I can not open the rear of the Jeep because the spare tire rack hits the coupler.

P1020385.jpg
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Safety Chains

Make sure you have two safety chains from your trailer to your vehicle. Having two chains allows you to cross the chains under the tongue from left side of the trailer to right side of the vehicle, and right side of the trailer to left side of the vehicle (or the other way around).

This way if the trailer parts company from the vehicle the tongue can be supported on the chains.
 

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