Critique my solar setup!

[V85562A]

Hello,

First time poster, long time lurker. Really impressed with the wealth of knowledge on this board. Looking to build a setup to make life a little easier when I'm the middle of no where doing photo shoots. Most of the time it will be running the ARB 50QT. Decided to go 220ah and 2x100w panels for worst case conditions for the fridge. What my setup is currently missing is (in order of priority)

1) Ability to minimize drain on house batteries and run truck the during heavy loads like garment steamers and a coffeemaker (both 1500watts).
2) Ability for alternator to charge depleted house batteries if needed
3) Ability for house battery to jump starter battery

Consist of
2 x Renogy Flex solar panels
1 x 20A MPPT Charge Controller (might return for the CTEK Dual I just recently discovered)
2 x 6V GC2 batteries (Not purchased yet) for 12v 220ah
1 x Blue Sea Distribution 12v
1 x 2000w Sine inverter (not purchased yet)

Had some questions on linking the starting battery/alternator to this setup.
Q1: Can it be as simple as a switch like this? Only during heavy load/jumping with I combine the 3 batteries.

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...qid=1431234018&sr=8-2&keywords=bluesea+switch
Run a heavy gauge wire to house batteries
Disadvantages?

Q2: I can return the MPPT charge controller and get a CTEK DS250 and Smart Pass, but judging by the size of the wires linking the batteries this way will do little to reduce drainage of house batteries during heavy loads as it functions as a charger and not a direct link to alternator/starting battery. Also won't have to worry about plugging in my battery maintainer to the starting battery since I am getting solar trickle charge. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks in advance!

 

[dwh]

Q1: Sure, lots of people use a simple switch. I like automated better so I'd go with the ACR. Unless you get the CTEK - you can't use the CTEK and the ACR together.

Q2: Even with the ACR when the engine is off, the engine battery will do little to reduce the drainage of the house battery. That's the point - to let the aux loads drain the house battery without draining the engine battery...so you can still start the truck.

The starting battery won't get a charge from the solar with the CTEK unless you add the SmartPass unit as well.




(Hairdresser ACC?)

 

[V85562A]

Thanks for the reply.

For Q2, let me try to rephrase. I want to start the truck to run heavy loads to reduce impact/bypass the house batteries. As in using alternator power vs battery power from the back of the truck. Will the CTEK allow that much current to pass through?

Ex: If the garment steamer will be running 15 mins I rather start the truck vs drain the house battery and let the steamer run off the batteries alone. Almost like physically disconnecting the inverter off house batteries and moving it to the engine/gas up front

Hairdresser acc : curling iron, hairdryer, etc.

 

[unseenone]

I would scratch the mppt controller, they are very RF dirty, particularly if you plan on using any radio gear. The morningstar prostar pwn PS-30M is very quiet and will not cause any problems. It will also give you a little extra room for possible expansion.

I'm not a big fan of 6v golf cart batteries, particularly on a vehicle. They will require constant maintenance, and off gas. I would consider large AGM batteries.

 

[dwh]

Thanks for the reply.

For Q2, let me try to rephrase. I want to start the truck to run heavy loads to reduce impact/bypass the house batteries. As in using alternator power vs battery power from the back of the truck. Will the CTEK allow that much current to pass through?

Ex: If the garment steamer will be running 15 mins I rather start the truck vs drain the house battery and let the steamer run off the batteries alone. Almost like physically disconnecting the inverter off house batteries and moving it to the engine/gas up front

Hairdresser acc : curling iron, hairdryer, etc.

The CTEK is only a 20a charger - 20a x 12v = 240w - so it won't pass enough. With the SmartPass add-on, it can pass 80a - 80a x 12v = 960w. So probably still not enough for what you want. The large Blue Sea ACR can pass 500a.

 

[unseenone]

I agree, you need the power in batteries, the ctek is not designed for that. I've got an old 100amp multi battery charger, something along those lines is what you would need, however... If you have AC available, why not have AC setup like an RV, so when AC is available, you use "shore" power, and when it is not, the inverter runs your AC.

 

[V85562A]

I would scratch the mppt controller, they are very RF dirty, particularly if you plan on using any radio gear. The morningstar prostar pwn PS-30M is very quiet and will not cause any problems. It will also give you a little extra room for possible expansion.

I'm not a big fan of 6v golf cart batteries, particularly on a vehicle. They will require constant maintenance, and off gas. I would consider large AGM batteries.

I have Morningstar for my home setup, not planning on any expansion.

Was just thinking about AGM vs 6V, the lack of maintenance would almost justify the double the price over the life of the batteries.

 

[unseenone]

They also make a PS-15M if that is the case. I love the products the company has, but in my opinion their customer service sucks. I have not yet received an email response to the last questions I sent them, and they are intentionally hard to call.

 

[Joe917]

I have Morningstar for my home setup, not planning on any expansion.

Was just thinking about AGM vs 6V, the lack of maintenance would almost justify the double the price over the life of the batteries.

Flooded cell maintenance is no big deal as long as the batteries are accessible.

 

[V85562A]

Flooded cell maintenance is no big deal as long as the batteries are accessible.

Saw some videos on YouTube, looks easy enough. Are the holes you pour distilled water in the same compartment as the acid? I ask because some videos people don't wear gloves, or eye protection and doesn't look like the caps are secured very tight.

 

[Joe917]

The "holes" are the tops of the battery cells which contain the acid(and the lead). Normal charging will cause the loss of some water. Equalizing the batteries will cause even more water loss. It is very important to only use pure distilled water to top up the cells. As you use the system you will quickly learn how often to check the batteries. Equalizing is the periodic overcharging recommended for all flooded lead acid batteries and will greatly extend their life. AGMs should not be equalized ( with the possible exception of Lifeline). The caps are not tight as they are designed to allow the battery to off gas. Flooded batteries should not be inverted or submerged.

 

[V85562A]

Is it good practice to disconnect the charge controller when the system is connected to the alternator/running off the truck engine?

From a YouTube video I've seen looks like it's ok and I can supply the 160a from the alternator and the 12a from CC at the same time while not frying the CC?

 

[dwh]

Is it good practice to disconnect the charge controller when the system is connected to the alternator/running off the truck engine?

From a YouTube video I've seen looks like it's ok and I can supply the 160a from the alternator and the 12a from CC at the same time while not frying the CC?

No need, you won't fry the CC. Hooking it to a battery won't hurt it, and a battery can produce a lot more amps than the alternator. It's like having two air compressors hooked up to a single air tank, and each compressor has its own pressure/shutoff switch. Each will do its own thing based on the pressure (voltage) and they don't interfere with each other.

 

[ETAV8R]

Have you considered using the CTEK D250S? Myself and two very knowledgeable friends use them with our set ups. Not sure any of us run a coffee maker with it though.

http://www.ctek.com/au/en/chargers/D250S DUAL

 

[V85562A]

Have you considered using the CTEK D250S? Myself and two very knowledgeable friends use them with our set ups. Not sure any of us run a coffee maker with it though.

http://www.ctek.com/au/en/chargers/D250S DUAL

Yes I have, but it won't pass enough amperage to run a coffeemaker by itself and cost more than I want to spend even with the MPPT CC built in.. From what I understand it's better to think of it as a charger vs a device to send 100amps of alternator power to the house batteries when needed.

I'd need the smart pass to send enough current for a coffeemaker and by then I'm out near $400. (-$150 I save by returning the CC.

A simple switch will suffice as those loads are only used occasionally.

Going with the ACR.

What does “Dual Sensing” mean?
A dual-sensing ACR will sense an active charge source on one or both batteries and not solely on a designated battery. The ACR will operate if the measured voltage on either of the terminals is of a level to initiate a connection or disconnection.

Bluesea ACR + MPPT charger = poor mans d250s capable of passing 120a which is exactly that I need to run that coffeemaker from the back of the truck.