Dexter Axles: Input needed, please

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

First, you can CLICK HERE for my trailer build thread for full details.

Dexter Axle seems to be the brand to go with based on what I have seen here on the forum. I thought they were local to my old "stomping grounds" (Elkhart, Indiana), but found out this morning that they closed that plant. I hoped to give a "local" company my business.

I'm leaning most heavily toward a Torflex 3500-lb. axle to get the heavier-duty, and may also ask about having the axle "de-tuned" to ~2300 lbs. to ride better. I know you "hardcore" expedition guys will scoff at the Torflex, but mine will see 95% road use, and what offroad it will see will be 2-track/mild. I considered (and still will) a leaf-sprung axle, but by the time I add in the cost of longer springs/hangers/shackles (I'd probably use CJ-7 leaf springs), it bumps my build budget considerably higher. The Torflex is a simple install, ans as I mentioned, I think it'll fit my needs just fine.

SO, I talked with an engineer at Dexter this morning...<sarcasm>quite a treat</sarcasm>, as she was very much the stereotype "engineer-type" - unfortunately, not very customer-friendly. I hoped she'd help me understand my design/compatility questions & considerations, but I'm sure liability forces her to put everything back on me. She did give me a couple things to think about, though...

The facts:

• I want to use OEM Jeep Ravine wheels (circa 2005, 5x4.5" BP, 5.25" BS); I already have two of these wheels ready to go.
• Per the Dexter engineer, she would need 3-D drawings of the Jeep Ravine wheel to address compatibility. She did say the pilot hole for the hub has to be slightly larger than 2.6" to fit through the center; I don't think the Jeep wheel hole is that big. I'll have to measure tonight.
• The Dexter engineer couldn't confirm if the 5.25" backspacing would work with their axle.
• I asked about the option of a shock mount for the Torflex, but was told that is not an option.
• She insisted I'd need brakes on a 3500-lb. axle for Michigan (brakes required for loads over 3K lbs.), even though I told her my trailer would be small, and that I was only looking at the 3500-lb. axle for the bigger hubs.

My questions:

• Many of the "big" Expedition trailer manufacturers offer OEM automotive wheels as an option. Are wheel spacers/adapters used for this wheel compatibility? I'm not a fan of spacers if it can be avoided.
• Has anyone used 15" aluminum (Jeep) wheels with 5.25" of backspacing on a Torflex axle?
• Will the wheel/tire clear the "trailing arm" portion of the Torflex axle when using a wheel with this much backspacing?

I have read through all the Torflex specs & installation information. It appears straightforward. I just don't know about my wheel compatibility.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Thanks,
Craig

 

[ntsqd]

FWIW The shock mounts on the Torflex under my TrailBlazer were added after delivery of the axle.

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

FWIW The shock mounts on the Torflex under my TrailBlazer were added after delivery of the axle.

Pics? I remember seeing you reference them in another post.

Craig

 

[Martyn]

Craig

Read this article http://www.adventuretrailers.com/suspension.html

There is a section on The Independent Rubber Torsion axle

My advice would be to stay away from this style of axle for off-road use.

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

I know you "hardcore" expedition guys will scoff at the Torflex, but mine will see 95% road use, and what offroad it will see will be 2-track/mild. I considered (and still will) a leaf-sprung axle, but by the time I add in the cost of longer springs/hangers/shackles (I'd probably use CJ-7 leaf springs), it bumps my build budget considerably higher.

Craig

Read this article http://www.adventuretrailers.com/suspension.html

There is a section on The Independent Rubber Torsion axle

My advice would be to stay away from this style of axle for off-road use.

Thanks Martyn. I have actually read through that article (good write-up, BTW), but since I plan on mostly using the trailer mostly on-road, I though the Torflex would work pretty well for me. However, I suppose a leaf-sprung axle would probably be more flexible (no pun intended), but due to cost considerations, I'd use standard trailer springs; I think the distributor mentioned that they're 24 1/4" long.

So, am I hearing that a traditional spring axle with standard trailer springs (and shocks) would probably be a better option? If so, I'm on-board with that.

I just wish I wouldn't have scrapped all the Jeep springs I had accumulated over several years.

Craig

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

The facts:

• I want to use OEM Jeep Ravine wheels (circa 2005, 5x4.5" BP, 5.25" BS); I already have two of these wheels ready to go.
• Per the Dexter engineer, she would need 3-D drawings of the Jeep Ravine wheel to address compatibility. She did say the pilot hole for the hub has to be slightly larger than 2.6" to fit through the center; I don't think the Jeep wheel hole is that big. I'll have to measure tonight.

My questions:

• Many of the "big" Expedition trailer manufacturers offer OEM automotive wheels as an option. Are wheel spacers/adapters used for this wheel compatibility? I'm not a fan of spacers if it can be avoided.
• Has anyone used 15" aluminum (Jeep) wheels with 5.25" of backspacing on a Torflex axle?

I quickly measured the center hole on my Jeep Ravine wheel this morning, and the diameter is only ~2 1/8"...too small for the Dexter hubs. So how are people handling this on their trailers with OEM aluminum wheels?

 

[UNI]

1x1_Speed_Craig,

Just my 2 cents worth, we have a Tentrax trailer and they use Dexter Axles on their trailers. We have had zero problems with the 3500lb. Dexter Axle with a 4" lift. You might want to give "George" at Tentrax a call, I'm sure he could give you some suggestions.

Click Here: Tentrax Contact Info

Hope this helps

 

[flick]

I'm not familar with the Dexter Axles, Torflex, but it does give me another option to something that I am looking at. I just found a link that might give you what you need, http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/axle-assemblies-torflex-3500-lb-5-on-45.html.

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

1x1_Speed_Craig,

Just my 2 cents worth, we have a Tentrax trailer and they use Dexter Axles on their trailers. We have had zero problems with the 3500lb. Dexter Axle with a 4" lift. You might want to give "George" at Tentrax a call, I'm sure he could give you some suggestions.

Click Here: Tentrax Contact Info

Hope this helps

Thanks YouAndI. I'll definitely keep it in mind, but I struggle with the idea of "mining" information from a business with whom I don't plan on spending money. Their time is valuable, and I don't want to waste it. They look like cool trailers, just not something I'm planning on buying.

Martyn from AT has been very helpful to me and others here, but I have spent (and will continue to spend) money on parts from AT.

I'm not familar with the Dexter Axles, Torflex, but it does give me another option to something that I am looking at. I just found a link that might give you what you need, http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/axle-assemblies-torflex-3500-lb-5-on-45.html.

Thanks flick. I'm all set with the correct bolt pattern; it's the backspacing & clearance with the center hole of the wheel that's in question. I can't seem to find out how this is addressed when using OEM aluminum wheels on trailer axles.

 

[Martyn]

Thanks Martyn. I have actually read through that article (good write-up, BTW), but since I plan on mostly using the trailer mostly on-road, I though the Torflex would work pretty well for me. However, I suppose a leaf-sprung axle would probably be more flexible (no pun intended), but due to cost considerations, I'd use standard trailer springs; I think the distributor mentioned that they're 24 1/4" long.

So, am I hearing that a traditional spring axle with standard trailer springs (and shocks) would probably be a better option? If so, I'm on-board with that.

I just wish I wouldn't have scrapped all the Jeep springs I had accumulated over several years.

Craig

Craig

My own experience with Independent Rubber Torsion Axles is that their ride on and off road is sub-par. If the axle fails there is no way to repair it. The best that can be done is a gusset welded in place to extract you from whatever remote location you are in. The only pluses I can see with this system is that it's inexpensive and easy to install.

A regular solid axle with the right leaf spring would be my choice for a homebuilder. People have had very good success using leaf spring from Suzuki Samurai’s and CJ5's, they are long enough eye to eye, and have good flexibility. Paired up with a good shock it work out to be a good system.

Trailer leaf spring are abysmal, the quality of materials is poor, they are extremely stiff, and too short for your application.

 

[StumpXJ]

I have to agree with Martyn on this.

I took off my Dexter 3500 torsion axle, and gladly got rid of it. That thing was like the axle was welded directly to the fram with no suspension. The only time that trailer ever road *somewhat* well was when I had close to 2 tons in it. That RARELY ever happens. It road like a worn out wagon when it was empty, and bounced up to a foot off the ground at highway speeds when hitting a hole. That gets interesting at 70mph.

I went with a custom trailing arm/solid axle with airbag set-up, and it rides like its....wait for it.... on air. Totally adjustable depending on my load, so my ride is always perfect, whether I am empty or fully loaded.

I am using a Dexter solid straight axle now with the trailing arms and couldnt be happier.

Even if my trailer never touched a dirt road, I would not run a rubber torsion axle again. With a good spring set-up, or even just a main leaf with airbags, it will be SOOO much better.

Just my opinion, good luck with it.

~ James

 

[ntsqd]

Pics? I remember seeing you reference them in another post.

Craig

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=73484&postcount=18

On typical trailer springs I agree with Martyn. They're a poor idea for this use. I think they're just a poor overall. The softer the spring, the more important the damping becomes so make the shocks an integral part of any long leaf design.

What I have contemplated to address the potential for the Torflex axle trailing arm to delam and try to come out is a pair of spacers welded to the frame in such a way that they are opposite of each other, span the arm's pivot axis, and don't interfere with the arm's motion. Bolted to those is a stout strap with a carriage bolt placed at the pivot axis with it's head towards the trailing arm. Allow ~1/4" of clearance between the carriage bolt head and the trailing arm for normal operation.

EDIT:
Stump, Interesting and totally contradictory experience. What tire size and psi do you use on the Torflex? Mine came to me with 33-12.50's on it and I've run on as low as 5psi (unknowingly) for a long distance.

 

[Martyn]

Very much agree with the integration of a shock absorber.

If you can go with an adjustable shock like the RS9000 it's even better.

 

[ExpoMike]

I quickly measured the center hole on my Jeep Ravine wheel this morning, and the diameter is only ~2 1/8"...too small for the Dexter hubs. So how are people handling this on their trailers with OEM aluminum wheels?

Most of the ones I have seen done use a spacer to move the wheel out enough so it can clear the hub. Not sure if there is any other options.

 

[Martyn]

Most of the ones I have seen done use a spacer to move the wheel out enough so it can clear the hub. Not sure if there is any other options.

The center hole on the stock Jeep rim is too small for the 3500 lb spindle. You can use a 2" adapter to space the rim outward allowing room for the spindle. The adapter also pushes the tire rim combination outward which compensates for the large backspacing on the rim. Adapters for the stock Jeep set up are $275.00 plus shipping from AT.

The other method that can be done by the home-builder is to open out the center hole with a hole saw, and then clean it up with a file and buffing wheel. It's not an option for us as a manufacturer. The issue is then dealing with the backspacing, the tire sits well back from the edge of the trailer, if possible we like to see 1/4" to 1/2" of the tire outside the wheel well for body protection.