Diehard platinum battery for 06' Taco which one?

[wingysataday]

I went to sears today and picked up a group 35 platinum diehard but when I got home I noticed it is significantly smaller than my current battery. So I started looking online at sears.com and noticed that the 34 group had much more cranking amps and more reserve capacity but the polarity is switched. Why can't I get the 34 and just face it backwards? The positive would end up on the same side and it is a much more robust battery.
1. Why does it matter what side the pos and neg are on, if you can just flip the battery around?
2.Is there a different size that would work better?

group 35:
•4-year FREE Replacement, 100 Month Pro-Rated Limited Warranty
•740 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) - Reliable starting power in all weather conditions, due to the use of 99.99% pure virgin lead plates and tin-coated brass terminals
•100 Minutes of reserve capacity - Ideal for luxury vehicles with multiple electronic accessories
•Longer off-season storage time – Ideal for show cars & classic cars
•AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) construction - Provides mounting flexibility & guarantees longer service life
http://www.sears.com/diehard-platin...p-02850035000P?prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=G5
Group 34:
•4-year FREE Replacement, 100 Month Pro-Rated Limited Warranty
•850 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) - Reliable starting power in all weather conditions, due to the use of 99.99% pure virgin lead plates and tin-coated brass terminals
•135 Minutes of reserve capacity - Ideal for luxury vehicles with multiple electronic accessories
•Longer off-season storage time – Ideal for show cars & classic cars
•AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) construction - Provides mounting flexibility & guarantees longer service life
http://www.sears.com/diehard-platin...p-02850034000P?prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=G8

 

[downhill]

If you turn it around, the cables have to reach all the way over the battery. Mine would not reach. What you need is a group 34R. Same battery but the terminals are (R)eversed. I looked and it does not appear that sears offers that battery in the 34R. You might ask them about ordering it?? They have other batteries in the 34R designation.

 

[soonenough]

Here's another option: Diehard Platinum Group 65. Same price, same reserve capacity, except it has 930 CCA. Only minor modifications are needed to make it fit:
1) You'll have to trim the raised lip off the front of the battery tray since the Group 65 is slightly larger front-to-back than the OEM battery. I did this in about 30 seconds with a pair of tin snips.
2) The OEM battery hold-down strap has one of the hold-down hooks integrated into the strap; you'll have to drill out the hook and replace with a set of aftermarket hooks. The battery is taller than the OEM battery, so you'll need longer hooks. My suggestion is to get the longest ones they have at your local parts store and then cut them to length after they're in. The hooks should be $5 or less at any parts store, and it took about 5 minutes to drill out the OEM hook from the hold-down strap.
3) You'll have to get extensions for the battery cables to be able to reach the posts on the far side of the battery (probably will be the same with the Group 34 you mentioned). I got the parts needed from Remy Battery (thanks to DarkHelmet here on ExPo for the recommendation). I used sticky-back zip-tie anchors to hold the cables down, and even with all the heat from the engine, hot/cold ambient temps, humidity, and numerous washes of the engine bay, they're still staying in place perfectly.

Side Terminal to Post Adapters (P/N 5515): http://www.remybattery.com/Side-Terminal-to-Post-Adapters-P4950C1300.aspx $5.04
Extension Cables (P/N 5505): http://www.remybattery.com/Top-Post-to-Side-Terminal-Conversion-Cables-P4947.aspx $25.95

Even if you don't decide to go with the Group 65, you can use these same parts to solve the problem you mentioned with the Group 34.

 

[wingysataday]

i dont have time to order parts and need to be able to do this with parts I can find locally.
1) Does anyone know if O'reilly or Napa carries the battery cable extensions?
2) Is it both the positeve and the negative cables from the truch that won't reach?
I will have to look closer when I get home to see how much length I have.

 

[soonenough]

i dont have time to order parts and need to be able to do this with parts I can find locally.
1) Does anyone know if O'reilly or Napa carries the battery cable extensions?
2) Is it both the positeve and the negative cables from the truch that won't reach?

1) It's doubtful that a parts store will have those short extensions. But you can probably make them yourself or have them made by a local shop pretty easily. If you have a marine supply (like West Marine), or a decent electrical supply in your area, or even a farm/tractor supply, they usually sell high-quality battery cable (or welding cable) on reels. You can have them cut to any length, and they usually have different styles of lugs that can be crimped onto the ends, as well as the equipment to crimp them in the store. You can always use a vise to crimp them temporarily, but I don't know if I'd leave them like that permanently.

Also, most decent parts stores will stock a variety of generic battery cables of various lengths; you could check to see if any of them carry something short enough to use. If you have to go with something longer, I'd step up the gauge accordingly (i.e. probably jump to 2-gauge for something 2 feet or longer). As for the terminal adapters, I'm not sure if that's something a local place would stock or not. If I were you, I'd grab the picture off the Remy Batteries website and bring it with you when you go to local shops so you can show them what you're looking for. Ultimately, all you're trying to do is create a new 'post' on the end of the battery cable extension for the factory harness to attach to, so anything you can create that does that should work. Heck, you could probably get away with a large-diameter bolt/washers/nut for a temporary fix.

Ultimately, you can always order the parts to do a clean install now (less then $40 shipped), and cobble something together that will work temporarily until they arrive. By far the most time-consuming part of the whole project is fitting the battery itself. The wiring is quick and easy, so you can always re-do that later with proper parts.

2) Yes, with the Group 65, neither of the OEM cables will reach the new battery posts. I can't say for sure with the Group 34.

 

[wingysataday]

is there a big difference between the platinum and the advanced gold?

 

[wingysataday]

Thanks soonenough! I might just have to be happy with the 35 platinum. I am leaving for a 5 day elk hunt/expo across the woods of idaho so I don't have time to screw around. I think the 35 will be just fine.

 

[Dave Bennett]

P5

I use the Die Hard Platinum P5 in my 05, no need for any extensions or anything.

 

[wingysataday]

I use the Die Hard Platinum P5 in my 05, no need for any extensions or anything.

thats what i did as well. I figure its better than the walmart battery that was in it!

 

[Rotorgeek]

Here's another option: Diehard Platinum Group 65. Same price, same reserve capacity, except it has 930 CCA. Only minor modifications are needed to make it fit:
1) You'll have to trim the raised lip off the front of the battery tray since the Group 65 is slightly larger front-to-back than the OEM battery. I did this in about 30 seconds with a pair of tin snips.
2) The OEM battery hold-down strap has one of the hold-down hooks integrated into the strap; you'll have to drill out the hook and replace with a set of aftermarket hooks. The battery is taller than the OEM battery, so you'll need longer hooks. My suggestion is to get the longest ones they have at your local parts store and then cut them to length after they're in. The hooks should be $5 or less at any parts store, and it took about 5 minutes to drill out the OEM hook from the hold-down strap.
3) You'll have to get extensions for the battery cables to be able to reach the posts on the far side of the battery (probably will be the same with the Group 34 you mentioned). I got the parts needed from Remy Battery (thanks to DarkHelmet here on ExPo for the recommendation). I used sticky-back zip-tie anchors to hold the cables down, and even with all the heat from the engine, hot/cold ambient temps, humidity, and numerous washes of the engine bay, they're still staying in place perfectly.

Side Terminal to Post Adapters (P/N 5515): http://www.remybattery.com/Side-Terminal-to-Post-Adapters-P4950C1300.aspx $5.04
Extension Cables (P/N 5505): http://www.remybattery.com/Top-Post-to-Side-Terminal-Conversion-Cables-P4947.aspx $25.95

Even if you don't decide to go with the Group 65, you can use these same parts to solve the problem you mentioned with the Group 34.

I like that setup you have for your aux fuse box. Can you still get into the stock fuse box with out much fuss?

 

[soonenough]

I like that setup you have for your aux fuse box. Can you still get into the stock fuse box with out much fuss?

Bringing this one back from the dead...I was back in this thread trying to find a Remy Battery P/N and saw I never answered your question. It takes a minute or two to undo a couple of the cables that are running to the main fuse holder and fuse block before you can remove the OEM fuse box cover. It's not ideal, but it's been working for probably close to 4 years without any ill effects. Long term, I'd like to change it and use a Bussmann 15303 fuse/relay block, but it's not at the top of the priority list.

 

[uscg2008]

Group 31 just saying. Using a pelfreybilt battery tray

 

[soonenough]

I can make that happen. Tell me your needs and I'll get her built!

I've already got the Bussmann 15401-1-2-1-0A RFRM on hand. I have a big list of relays, wire grommets, Metri-Pack connectors, etc... The main issue at this point is finalizing my wiring diagram so that I know exactly what I need to purchase.