So since I got the XJ, Ive been jonesing to do some work to it, but I have no money right now. So I checked out tons of "free or cheap mods" threads on NAXJA and went to work today. I removed the rear swaybar, bent some tabs on the "frame" that inhibit the upper control arms from dropping all the way, straightened my stock front metal brake lines and secured them with zip ties, cleaned the engine bay, and then got some dielectric grease and hit EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay, under the engine, and under the body with the stuff. I even took off the fuse box cover and did each individual fuse and relay. Should this be sufficient to water proof these connections? The only thing I was thinking is that where the wires go into each connector are not greased. If the insides of the connections are greased, should that be enough to keep shorts from happening? Im trying to fully waterproof the rig...to the point I can cross a river or something for a minute or so and then get out of the water and be ok. The diffs already have extended breathers (which Im going to extend more) and Im gonna check out the tranny and Tcase for those too. I was also thinking about taking the distributer cap off and the fuze box cover and putting a bead of silicone around them, letting them dry, and then reinstalling for a good seal around these. Whatchathink?
Dielectrification.....
- Thread starter SixLug
- Start date
sandalscout
Adventurer
I can't say anything about the grease or circuitry, but this might be handy:
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoBreatherExtensions.htm
I've extended my axle breathers from this site's suggestions, and there is some good info about extending/packing the distro cap as well.
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoBreatherExtensions.htm
I've extended my axle breathers from this site's suggestions, and there is some good info about extending/packing the distro cap as well.
Nullifier
Expedition Leader
Exrunner said:
I have full breathers on the drive train. Trans, transfer, axles etc. I have also filled every connector with die electric grease and sealed my distributor. Removed my complete intake system and sealed through the Safari snorkel. I have never had an issue with water and I have been very deep for a long time. If you have the time and ambition it is a good mod to do if you spend alot of time in the water.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
I dunno... I did multiple 36" water crossings last week with ZERO preperations and had no problems. The "waterproofing" is just a belt and suspenders approach. Those connectors have to be reasonably weatherproof just to survive driving in the rain.
Now, I'm talking about electrical connections only. The air systems are another animal. I definitely took my chances with not having a snorkel.
Now, I'm talking about electrical connections only. The air systems are another animal. I definitely took my chances with not having a snorkel.
The only thing Im worried about is the back of the connectors, where the wires enter the connectors. Is that a vulnerable area? Whats the best way to deal with that? I was thinking maybe drip wax down into the back of all of them?
As for the breathers, thats no big deal...Ill take care of that.
As for the breathers, thats no big deal...Ill take care of that.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
I don't think it's likely that water in the backside would cause a problem. At only 12V for most systems, it's highly unlikely that you could get a short by electricity tracing along the water from the backside of one pin to the other.
The biggest risk with water is because it speeds up the corrosive attack on the connectors. Dielectric grease should help with that, but it's really not critical. There are cars that are 20 years old that have driven in rain all their lives and*most* of the connectors are still working.
There's nothing wrong with doing what you want to do. But just don't get too freaked out by it. And if the car is more than a few years old, you should be cleaning up the pins with some emery paper before you grease and reassemble them.
The biggest risk with water is because it speeds up the corrosive attack on the connectors. Dielectric grease should help with that, but it's really not critical. There are cars that are 20 years old that have driven in rain all their lives and*most* of the connectors are still working.
There's nothing wrong with doing what you want to do. But just don't get too freaked out by it. And if the car is more than a few years old, you should be cleaning up the pins with some emery paper before you grease and reassemble them.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
FWIW I was told by a friend who rebuilt a 510 that Vinegar works great for cleaning corrosion off of connector pins and fuse box blades. He is right. I've since found that it will also strip the plating off hardware that I'm about to weld on, so do not leave any plated pins etc soaking in it for too long.