Disco 1 recovery points/off road necessities

[JeremyT101]

So I know there was a lot of blabbing in my old thread, almost entirely by me about all my problems..ect Well, I manned up, said screw it, and am taking the truck in this weekend to the Rover mechanic to get some of the big kinks worked out, so I can get that safety done and get this thing on the road and on the trail. I have dreamed about having a truck like this for two years, now its in my driveway, I just gotta get it the last few legs to get it ready.

That brings me to my next question. Even for very mild off road stuff I want to be prepared to get stuck by getting a solid recovery point on the front and rear as well as picking up a hi-lift and a good tug strap. I'm not looking to put on new bumpers, or rock sliders yet. I know that it could probably use diff covers, anyone got any recommendations for those? My main goal for the truck right now is maintenance, not add on parts, but I do think those things are pretty key. Anyone got any good recommendations for recovery points and the hard wear required for them if they arn't going on a bumper?

Thanks guys!

 

[nwoods]

There aren't any recovery points on the Disco from the factory. So you either need quality steel bumpers, or just go with a receiver mounted clevis for the rear hitch.

 

[LR Max]

For Diff guards, get weld-on Rovertym diff guards. I know that it sounds scary welding on your new-to-you rig, but the clamp-on ones are crap. They fall off very easily. What good are they if they fall off?

For the hi-lift, invest in the "wheel adapter". That way you can pick up any corner of your rig without having to have bumpers or special points, etc. Basically, it allows you to pick up the wheel. Which IMO is better than having to jack up the chassis and keep unloading the suspension. Tip for hi-lifts: look online for videos on how to properly use a hi-lift. This is good information as there are safety concerns when using a hi-lift. Also get yourself a piece of foam pipe insulation and wrap it around the top of the hi-lift. If it accidentally leans into your rig for whatever reason, it won't do too much/any harm.

Front recovery point...don't use the stock brush bar as a recovery point...this does NOT end well.

^This above for rear recovery point, it is solid. For the front, look into what is called JATE rings. They bolt to the chassis. Research this and rigging to get the right setup for you.

For off road, remove running boards, rear bumper plastic end caps, front air dam and front plastic end caps. That is what I did, kept those parts alive and put them back on after wheeling. Best way to keep from breaking them and you don't have to buy expensive bumpers.

Replace the power steering hoses and the transmission rubber hoses. Too many stories going around about these failing and causing problems. Since these trucks are like, 15 years old now, the hoses are getting old. Would be good maintenance.

Get a good 3"x30ft tow strap. This is the size I always get and its what I like. Some say you can get away with 2". Probably. But the 3x30 has worked for me for years so that is what I'm going to recommend.

So yeah, that and don't go wheeling alone. Should be fine!

 

[fishEH]

Rear: Receiver shackle
Front: Jate ring
Strap: 1" x 30' Master Pull Super Yanker. This thing simply rocks and I havent found a situation yet where I wish I had a regular strap instead. It stretches and recoils so you can really give a good yank to someone in deep mud or snow.
Diff guards: Any bolt on ones will be fine for mild wheeling. The QT's are nice too.

 

[Ray_G]

x2 on the masterpull kinetic rope vice a regular strap...
r-
Ray