Chazz Layne
Administrator
The trouble isn't the oil pump itself, it's the holes/dowels that line it up on the engine block. Fixing it requires replacing the motor.
Disco Conflicted
- Thread starter fowldarr
- Start date
The trouble isn't the oil pump itself, it's the holes/dowels that line it up on the engine block. Fixing it requires replacing the motor.
Dave Legacy
Adventurer
Chazz is right. Some people have reported putting the front cover back on a different way for success, but why bother? I'd just get a 04 and get both CDL and a good motor. However, oil pump failure has started to get reported on the 04s too, just not due to poorly machined motors.
The U-joint on the front driveshaft is super at risk of breaking due to everyday use. It happens to bone stock trucks all the time. You can either rebuild your driveshaft w/serviceable joints or just buy a Tom Woods unit. You'll want to do the rear at some point also.
The U-joint on the front driveshaft is super at risk of breaking due to everyday use. It happens to bone stock trucks all the time. You can either rebuild your driveshaft w/serviceable joints or just buy a Tom Woods unit. You'll want to do the rear at some point also.
Dave Legacy
Adventurer
I almost forgot to mention that I had none stop 3-amigos issues the entire time I had my D2. I don't know much about D1s and if they have the same problem, but I might as well have not had TC at all on my 03.
SeaRubi
Explorer
I'd be shopping for a '99 D1 SD in the nicest condition I could find. Last year for the series I trucks and the GEMS motor is solid, in my opinion.
If you folks think the distributor trucks with the 3.9 are better than the coil pack motors I think you're smoking something good. The GEMS motor trucks have less maintenance and are more fuel efficient. A 14cux equipped Rover that isn't burning a check engine light has the bulb removed or it's burnt out.
I don't like the DII's appetite for head gaskets nor the heavier, bigger body, but they are solid trucks and very capable with very few mods. They are also quieter over the freeway which helps if you like to run mud terrains on a daily driver.
fwiw.
cheers,
-ike
If you folks think the distributor trucks with the 3.9 are better than the coil pack motors I think you're smoking something good. The GEMS motor trucks have less maintenance and are more fuel efficient. A 14cux equipped Rover that isn't burning a check engine light has the bulb removed or it's burnt out.
I don't like the DII's appetite for head gaskets nor the heavier, bigger body, but they are solid trucks and very capable with very few mods. They are also quieter over the freeway which helps if you like to run mud terrains on a daily driver.
fwiw.
cheers,
-ike
RabidRover
Observer
Spark one up :costumed-smiley-007 ... I have had my 95 for 11 years and it has been rock solid.
SeaRubi
Explorer
It's probably just my hatred for distributors talking. I also hate that ignition amplifier. Or the fact that putting a real 12V coil on the motor tries to blow out the entire ignition and the ECU. I really don't like carburetors, either. :elkgrin:
David Harris
Expedition Leader
I own both a 95 and 96 Disco as well as a 92 RRC. The 4.0L in the 96+ is fine as well. Yes. OBD2, and more complicated, but I've found that there are some advantages.
1.) No distributor, so greater reliability for the ignition. Also greater resistance to water when wading because the coil packs are much more waterproof than the distributor and are located at the back of the motor on top in as safe a place as can be.
2.) Much more precise diagnosis of problems with OBD2.
3.) Allows computer controlled spark adjustment in addition to fuel metering due to elimination of the distributor.
4.) I've found mine to be extremely reliable in the years I've owned it. Nothing has ever malfunctioned except the fuel pump, and that went out at 160K miles. Still running on original head gaskets. Just replace the crank position sensor and check the wiring to it for preventive maintenance.
The transmission is not tied into the computer electronically until the D2.
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SeaRubi
Explorer
yep. pulling the cap to hit it with WD-40 after a water crossing gets kind of old. a lot of guys pressurize the dizzy cap with an air source and have it rigged to a switch to prevent it from taking on moisture and bogging out in the middle. if you're in a dry climate this obviously isn't as much of a concern.