Disco II - rear 12v power outlet

[R_Lefebvre]

I know I have experienced my socket getting hot after running a heavy load for a long time. I think it was a 12A "cooler", or something like that. The line is rated for 15A, but probably not continuous. Still, I would have thought 5A would be fine.

 

[LandyAndy]

Got my new Marinco plugs today, the Engle fuse fits just fine.... x-post here :

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=648342#post648342

 

[Dmarchand]

Do it right. Blue Seas fuse panel in the engine compartment for all future upgrades, then run new wires.

While you are at it, ditch the ash tray and give your rear passengers some juice.

 

[Brian McVickers]

Most fridges run under 5A, so I'm not understanding why the 15A rated line on that rear accessory socket is getting hot. What kind of fridge are you guys using that experienced that? My ARB should be running under 2A once cooled.

For the new line routing from the front, what specific routing was used? I want to put a constant plug in my wife's D so she can run my fridge when needed, and would appreciate the lessons learned on routing.

I'm running an OLD Engel 45.
Last year it got so bad I was convinced it was broken or out of coolant but according to Engel the closed system has to be really physically damaged to leak, so that wasn't it, they suggested plugging into 110v and sure enough it froze solid on high. They said this test proves it's not getting enough juice in the vehicle. A common problem they see when using stock plug wiring.

Also keep in mind the ambient summer temps in Phoenix are 100+.

 

[jh.]

I was interested in this info also, but searching Dweb can be painful. I just looked it up in the Rave CD. Looks like what you need is a simple mod inside the engine comparement fuse box.

Find connector C0574 inside the fuse box. I'm not sure how to access that sitting here, I'm guessing you have to take the top off the box, unscrew the base and lift it up so you can see the underside?

On pin 6, you should see a white with green stripe wire. You need to cut that wire, and then simply feed it power direct from the battery TO THE CHASSIS SIDE of the wire, NOT the into the connector itself. That wire works it's way through the harness and powers the rear cigarette lighter and only the rear cigarette lighter. CONFIRM YOU HAVE THE CORRECT WIRE BEFORE ATTACHING BATTERY POWER TO IT.

If you feed the battery power onto the connector side, you'll be bypassing the Auxilliary Circuits Relay and all your aux circuits will be powered up permanently, and your rear socket will be dead. That's not what you want to do.

After cutting the white/green wire, I'd so something to secure the stub wire sticking out of the connector. Shrink wrap or electrical tape.

If you want to do something similiar with the front cigarette lighter, it's not as easy as that circuit takes power from the same relay and brings it into the cabin before branching off into a bunch of other circuits. It would be just as easy to rewire that cigarette lighter directly.

The main problem is one of those branches goes into the BCU. I'm not sure of the effect of leaving this powered permanently.

RESURRECTED!

Has anyone tried this yet?