Discovery II front rotor removal

[Colorado David]

I started out this morning to replace my front brakes, both rotors and pads. This is my first time doing this job on the Disco. It looked simple enough. I get it prepared and soak the lug bolts with PB Blaster and let it soak for a while. I come back and the rotors are still as stuck as they can be. I soak them again, liberally, and install my Columbia Rock Sliders. I come back to the rotors and they will not budge. They look cleaner, but will not budge. What is the trick for getting off stuck rotors? I'm stumped.

 

[AxeAngel]

Did you remove the rotor retaining screw? It's a #4 screwdriver bit that you need.

Take a mallet or a normal hammer and tap on the back of the rotor, turn a bit, tap again, they will slowly come out. Just need to use some force.

-Sam

 

[Colorado David]

Yes, I removed the screw. I did hammer with a dead blow hammer and used a bit more force than I was comfortable with. They still did not budge. I called an auto parts store and asked if there was a tool for removing stubborn rotors. You never know if the guy you're talking to knows anything or not, but he recommended applying heat. He said to heat it up with a propane torch. I asked just how flammable PB Blaster was and he didn't know. I'm not inclined to try that yet.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Whatever you do, don't burn Brake Cleaner!!! (ie: creates phosgene gas)

Heat usually does solve all problems.

Interesting you're talking about this now as I also need to do a front brake job imminently. Joy.

 

[AxeAngel]

Use a hammer on the back side of the rotor. It will come off.

I used a rubber mallet and it came off after some time. Hammer works much better and faster. You swinging a hammer on a rotor that you are removing anyway is fine.

Apply a little antiseize to the new rotor where it mates with the hub.

-Sam

 

[AxeAngel]

I just realized something...

You have remove the caliper and caliper mounting bracket already right? 13mm 6pt and 18mm 12pt respectively.

On reinstall, do not use antiseize on either bolts, use brake boot grease for the caliper guide pins and use blue loctite on the caliper mounting bolts. If you dont use loctite and torque it down tight, they will back out on you rendering your rig inoperable. Ask me how i know.

-Sam

 

[Street Wolf]

Get a bigger ************** hammer and hit it harder. Seriously. Use a block of wood as a buffer.

 

[Colorado David]

It's hard for me because I work in a field where using force on equipment is never the right thing. Over the years I've come to accept that occasionally you have to hit something with a hammer, but it goes against the grain.

 

[Street Wolf]

It's hard for me because I work in a field where using force on equipment is never the right thing. Over the years I've come to accept that occasionally you have to hit something with a hammer, but it goes against the grain.

Haha, I know what you mean man. I hate it too, but I've gotten to the point where I'm starting to figure this hammer thing out, and it works. I wouldn't do this if it was going to damage something however.

 

[brushogger]

If you don't already have one, go by Harbor Freight and get a dead blow hammer. It will be one of the handiest tools in your kit. It won't bend or mar anything but it still packs a wallop! About $5-7. Trust me:ylsmoke: it's money well spent.

 

[Brian McVickers]

Try shooting some of the PB back behind the rotor where it meets the hub.
With a clear path - caliper removed and retaining screw removed - take a 3lb sledge and go for it!

When installing the new you don't need to worry about that little retaining screw, they are only on thier to keep the rotor in place in the factory during assembly and do nothing for function while operating the vehicle.

I use a black anti-squeel brake greese. I use it liberally on the backs onf the pads and on thie inside of the rotor where it meets the hub. Every time I have gone to remove rotors now they pop right off.

Good luck, don't be shy with the sledge!

 

[Brian McVickers]

I have also heard that a VERY LARGE gear puller works well too.

 

[Colorado David]

I am now the owner of a very large gear puller and will try that first. I'm not sure when I can get back to this job now. Maybe Saturday.

 

[AxeAngel]

Use the gear pulled to pull hubs(3 tooth), use a hammer to remove rotors. Try it. It's liberating.

Those rotors are thick(I'm guessing you took a caliper to measure if they are within spec). A couple forceful blows won't damage anything. Don't be afraid.

-Sam

 

[muskyman]

Hammers hammers and more hammers.

man you guys need to get real.

the correct tool is a 3 jaw puller.

I can remove even the most rusted rotors the midwest can create in less then a minute with my puller and it never once makes that horrible sound of smacking a big hammer onto the back side of a rotor.

Get the correct tool and the job is simple.