angusdevil
Adventurer
Ok, there has been a lot of questions about this in other threads so I'll just start a new one for everyone to read.
Starting off, a big thanks to Kurt at Expeditioneers for hooking me up with the snork!!! Airflow did a REALLY good job with the install instructions and documentation. One thing to be aware of is that everything is in metric so be sure to double check your drill bit sizes so that you're making the appropriate sized holes. The template with it is spot on as well. The snorkel is extremely sturdy and I was actually hanging off of it and it wasn't budging! As for wind or extra noise, there isn't any! I have some before and after sound clips so that you can hear the difference.
For water testing, we ran out of daylight (we had a lot of trucks to work on that day) so I'll be doing it through the week so don't worry, it'll be coming very soon.
Now the nitty gritty…
The good:
- Well built, well designed and a pretty flawless product. All of the pieces fit together VERY well and with addition of the sealant, I have no concerns with water leaking in.
- No extra wind noise
- It looks great on the truck
- The top of the snorkel stays connected, even with a few good, hard hits, it didn't budge.
- With the right sealant, things go together very easily. We used about half a tube on the 4 connections.
- After a few days of driving, my overhead computer says I am getting better mileage.
The not so good:
- Nothing was really bad but the fitment is TIGHT!!! We had to loosen up the fender a little to get it all pieced together but it's all together correctly with nothing rubbing. There isn't a lot of room to work in the fender so things have to be exact.
- The process of hooking up the hose wasn't documented all that well so we found ways to make things work but they could have gone into a bit more detail. At the end of the day, it's 5 pieces that get put together so it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out. I would suggest start hooking things up at the airbox and work your way back. We did it the opposite way so it made maneuvering things a bit cumbersome.
- The airbox in the instructions had a slightly bigger lip on it for connecting the adapter tube. This left us without the option of putting in the two bottom screws but in the end, it wasn't needed as we sealed it up quite nicely. A quick dump of a glass of water on the seal confirmed this. THIS MAY BE DUE TO THE FACT THAT IT WAS A DIESEL. I was under the impression that all 2500/3500's had the same box so when installing this, be sure to spend some extra time on the airbox and it shouldn't be an issue. I feel 100% confident with the work we did and it should not be an issue.
Overall:
- It's well thought out and built. So far, it has no negative affects to the sound or performance of the truck. Plenty of air is getting to the motor (even for a diesel) and doesn't leave anything left to be desired. It's a tight fit but it went together very smoothly. Mileage is staying consistent or slightly better but definitely not going down. With plenty of mastic, there shouldn't be any issues with it leaking or allowing any extra water into the intake.
Here are some pics of the install. If you've looked at the instructions before, it should be pretty self explanatory as to what everything is and how it goes together.
1500 airbox adapter
Reading the instructions is a good idea!
Be sure to clean off the area for a good working/cutting surface
Yes, the stock boxes do have drain holes. Obviously mine has been sitting in the mud and water a bit.
Here is how the adapter fits to the airbox
Not much lip to mount the bottom screws but the adapter is a really snug fit!
Was pretty cool to see that the inside of the tube was slicked over to cause less turbulence.
Yes, the mastic dried clear. Just screwing the two pieces together before the final dose of mastic.
Cutting out the template
Drilling pilots after we center punched the fender.
The top two holes are 12mm, the bottom three are 10mm
FENDER EATER!!!
After the holes were drilled and primered (self etching), we moved to the main tube where there were brass inserts molded into the back side. Insert the studs and BE SURE TO USE LOKTITE!
For the pillar brace, be sure to follow the instructions carefully. They're spot on but have a specific order to do things in. The rubber seal has 6 T20 screws in it that you have to remove after the holes are drilled into it. The plastic nutcerts that come with pretty good quality but make sure that you have a SMALL square hole file in order to make these fit well.
Starting off, a big thanks to Kurt at Expeditioneers for hooking me up with the snork!!! Airflow did a REALLY good job with the install instructions and documentation. One thing to be aware of is that everything is in metric so be sure to double check your drill bit sizes so that you're making the appropriate sized holes. The template with it is spot on as well. The snorkel is extremely sturdy and I was actually hanging off of it and it wasn't budging! As for wind or extra noise, there isn't any! I have some before and after sound clips so that you can hear the difference.
For water testing, we ran out of daylight (we had a lot of trucks to work on that day) so I'll be doing it through the week so don't worry, it'll be coming very soon.
Now the nitty gritty…
The good:
- Well built, well designed and a pretty flawless product. All of the pieces fit together VERY well and with addition of the sealant, I have no concerns with water leaking in.
- No extra wind noise
- It looks great on the truck
- The top of the snorkel stays connected, even with a few good, hard hits, it didn't budge.
- With the right sealant, things go together very easily. We used about half a tube on the 4 connections.
- After a few days of driving, my overhead computer says I am getting better mileage.
The not so good:
- Nothing was really bad but the fitment is TIGHT!!! We had to loosen up the fender a little to get it all pieced together but it's all together correctly with nothing rubbing. There isn't a lot of room to work in the fender so things have to be exact.
- The process of hooking up the hose wasn't documented all that well so we found ways to make things work but they could have gone into a bit more detail. At the end of the day, it's 5 pieces that get put together so it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out. I would suggest start hooking things up at the airbox and work your way back. We did it the opposite way so it made maneuvering things a bit cumbersome.
- The airbox in the instructions had a slightly bigger lip on it for connecting the adapter tube. This left us without the option of putting in the two bottom screws but in the end, it wasn't needed as we sealed it up quite nicely. A quick dump of a glass of water on the seal confirmed this. THIS MAY BE DUE TO THE FACT THAT IT WAS A DIESEL. I was under the impression that all 2500/3500's had the same box so when installing this, be sure to spend some extra time on the airbox and it shouldn't be an issue. I feel 100% confident with the work we did and it should not be an issue.
Overall:
- It's well thought out and built. So far, it has no negative affects to the sound or performance of the truck. Plenty of air is getting to the motor (even for a diesel) and doesn't leave anything left to be desired. It's a tight fit but it went together very smoothly. Mileage is staying consistent or slightly better but definitely not going down. With plenty of mastic, there shouldn't be any issues with it leaking or allowing any extra water into the intake.
Here are some pics of the install. If you've looked at the instructions before, it should be pretty self explanatory as to what everything is and how it goes together.
1500 airbox adapter
Reading the instructions is a good idea!
Be sure to clean off the area for a good working/cutting surface
Yes, the stock boxes do have drain holes. Obviously mine has been sitting in the mud and water a bit.
Here is how the adapter fits to the airbox
Not much lip to mount the bottom screws but the adapter is a really snug fit!
Was pretty cool to see that the inside of the tube was slicked over to cause less turbulence.
Yes, the mastic dried clear. Just screwing the two pieces together before the final dose of mastic.
Cutting out the template
Drilling pilots after we center punched the fender.
The top two holes are 12mm, the bottom three are 10mm
FENDER EATER!!!
After the holes were drilled and primered (self etching), we moved to the main tube where there were brass inserts molded into the back side. Insert the studs and BE SURE TO USE LOKTITE!
For the pillar brace, be sure to follow the instructions carefully. They're spot on but have a specific order to do things in. The rubber seal has 6 T20 screws in it that you have to remove after the holes are drilled into it. The plastic nutcerts that come with pretty good quality but make sure that you have a SMALL square hole file in order to make these fit well.
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