Doing timing belt/ Water Pump goofed up timing

[freewayross]

Hi all thanks to all your help I was able to swap out water pump and timing belt. After putting the new timing belt, I noticed the timing marks are off. The camshaft/ crankshaft or some combination may have turned in the process (while we were working). I have the FSM and know the timing marks.

My question is can I take the belt off and turn individual camshafts and crankshaft to align with the timing marks and put the belt back on? After putting the belt and tightening I'll make sure I turn the crankshaft few full circles and the camshaft /crankshaft timing marks still align.

Do you think this would work? Any tips or ideas greatly appreciated.

Also when i pulled the crank shaft out it came out with the little gear behind it on which the belt goes. My understanding is the can be separated? I just need to tap it a bit to separate. Just wanted to make sure before I do that?

Thanks

 

[nckwltn]

Gen 2.5..... I've rotated the cam shaft on the passenger side all the way around several times with the crank pulley on the timing mark.

I've found that if you move the crank back 1/2 to 1 tooth counter clockwise, when you rotate the whole thing clockwise the crank pulley lines up exactly on the mark and has pulled the slack in the timing belt.

 

[bryAWD]

Yes, you can move it, but just have it set to the crank is set 1 tooth CCW, so when you set the tensioner it will move 1 tooth forward into the correct position. I almost put it all back together 1 tooth off -- just take it all back down and move the crank back 1 tooth before the mark.

 

[BOPOH]

you can move it few teeth either direction, it won't let you do a complete turn because valves will hit pistons. Another thing to keep in mind, i believe it takes 2 complete turns on crankshaft to complete cycle so your cams will not be aligned half of the time

 

[Fasteddy]

First turn crank backwards 90° to clear valves, then set cams, then turn crank to mark.

 

[evomaki]

Guys, I'm going to bump this thread as it was helpful for me in getting the marks set right to get the belt back on. This worked for me: Finagle that eccentric pulley to what you think is the least tensioning orientation and snug the bolt down just a bit. Crank definitely 1 tooth CCW from mark. Passenger cam definitely on the mark. Move it a tooth off any how and bam the spring tension instantly rotates it a good 45 degrees. I'm sure several ways to do this but i worked counterclockwise from the crank. Belt on the crank (shove a rag between belt and oil pump if you want, you want the belt sort of 3/4 on and it cannot skip a tooth), just before belt goes around driver side cam gear use a wrench to move it 1 tooth CCW. Then around water pump, the right cam sprocket, and around the eccentric pulley. This is where it is good that the belt was not 100% shoved in on the crank. When you do it right it just barely slips over the eccentric with not much fuss. If you are fussing you got the eccentric off or just messed up placing the belt. Then tension that pulley with the mitsu tool or your personal Macgyver facsimile. Rotate several times to check. You want 3.8 to 4.5 mm gap from tensioner body to flat part on tensioner arm. Spin some more and your good.

 

[shoremontero]

Just had my local 4x4 shop do mine. Did camshaft/crankshaft seals, Water pump, timing belt and rear brakes. Set me back 500 bucks but it was worth it. Truck use to leak like a civ.

 

[freewayross]

Only 500 for labor? That's a good deal! I did it myself