Dual battery setup

[BurbanAZ]

I was planning on just staying with my normal truck battery for a while, but on our last trip we got stuck in snow a few times and had to winch out a bunch and ended up ruining the alternator and killing the battery. I have another battery from costco to replace that one, and i found a guy selling a brand new optima yellow top for 90 bucks so i picked that up. Im wanting to do a dual battery setup and run my winch, lights, and an inverter from the optima and just keep using my normal battery for starting, etc.. im not great with the electrical side of things so id like to find a kit that just has everything ill need if i can, what would you guys reccomend? Also will having two different batteries be an issue? Id also like at some point to add a solar charging system for the optima.

 

[Beowulf]

I don't think having different batteries will matter at all. Many people run Red and Yellow tops at the same time. I have the Kilby set up with Dual Sears Platinums. To control the 2 batteries I am running the National Luna controler and in cab remote/monitor. I really like having the setup. I get an immense peace of mind knowing they are there. It was not that big of a headache.

To run all the power, I made custom cables for everything out of 2gauge welding cable. I fully replaced every single piece of the charging system cable including the fuseable link. That was replaced with a 125 amp mega fuse block.

It has been a long time coming, but here are some pictures of my dual battery system.

- Kilby Tray
- 2 Sear Platinum P1
- National Luna Manager
- National Luna Controler/Monitor
- Tons of 2g Welding cable.
- 125amp Mega Fuse

Here is a view of the whole set up.

Close up of the manager.

Portion of the custom manager bracket I made that uses the tie down bolt from the kilby unit.

Picture take from above of the Mega Fuse that is used as the replacement for the fuseable link in the stock wiring.

How far up I moved the PCM. Basically as far as I could and not have it hit the hood.

Close up of the cable ends. These are going into the Power Distribution Center.

Another overall shot.

From the drive side.

The dual battery monitor/control in the cab.

 

[Jim K in PA]

Nice job Beowulf. Don't mean to hijack, but what size fuse did you use in the Megafuse? I am about to do the same thing (replace the FL) in my '05 LJ Rubicon. I was planning on using a 100A, which is just below the rating of the stock 117A alternator.

Picture take from above of the Mega Fuse that is used as the replacement for the fuseable link in the stock wiring.

 

[ssssnake529]

I also am running the National Luna kit in my rig.

Works well.

I got mine from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters:

http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/

 

[Beowulf]

It is a 125amp unit. Which I believe is the same as the OEM stock wire fuseable link.

 

[BurbanAZ]

nice set up Beowulf, i need a set up like that for sure. No where in town sells any type of battery isolator so looks like ill have to order something online

 

[Beowulf]

My stuff is from Paul. I just did the Isolator and Monitor separately instead of the whole kit. I knew I was going to make my own cables so it saved me some money.

 

[bmxer06pa]

My stuff is from Paul. I just did the Isolator and Monitor separately instead of the whole kit. I new I was going to make my own cables so it saved me some money.

That is good advice. I didn't know before I purchased the whole kit that the cables included are not rated for winch use! Wasted my money on the kit.

 

[Jim K in PA]

It is a 125amp unit. Which I believe is the same as the OEM stock wire fuseable link.

Thanks. And apologies for not seeing it in your original post.

 

[Beowulf]

Thanks. And apologies for not seeing it in your original post.

No problem. Also, the 125 amp fuse just matches the OEM link. BUT, I would not be opposed to going with something a little larger. You have to think a Winch can draw in the 4XXamp range. Of course I've never heard of anyone blowing an OEM fuseable link, but since we try to get as far away from civilization as possible, it is something to think about. I have also thought about a breaker instead of a fuse.

 

[Jim K in PA]

No problem. Also, the 125 amp fuse just matches the OEM link. BUT, I would not be opposed to going with something a little larger. You have to think a Winch can draw in the 4XXamp range. Of course I've never heard of anyone blowing an OEM fuseable link, but since we try to get as far away from civilization as possible, it is something to think about.

If you put the fuse in the same circuit as the OEM FL, then you do NOT want to go bigger, as that fuse is protecing the alternator as well as the downstream circuit. You will very quickly fry your alternator if you let the load exceed its rating. The electric winch load is being absorbed by the batteries, which are between the alternator and the winch load (obviously).

I am running a hydraulic winch so do not have to worry about managing those huge current draws from an electric winch. My highest load will be my DC-AC inverter, but I would love a mobi-arc for those trips waaaaay off the beaten path. That could dead short the alternator if not used properly, so the fuse is very important for protection against inadvertent dead shorts.

I have also thought about a breaker instead of a fuse.

I would not suggest doing so. CBs are usually tripped by heat load. A slowly rising current draw will prolong the heating process of the metal trigger, potentially damaging wiring before the breaker actually opens the circuit. A spare ANL fuse or two is cheaper than rewiring!

 

[clandr1]

I used a few items from BlueSea. I have an ACR (Automatic Charging Relay) that connects the two batteries via heavy (0-2 gauge) wire. It is 100% automatic and will connect the two batteries when it senses an input of greater than 13 volts from the main (starting) battery.

As a backup (and for self jumping capabilities) I added another length of 0 gauge wire with a manual BlueSea switch in case the ACR fails, or the main battery dies and I need to jump myself. It works beautifully. I first saw it on MUD.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/442538-budget-dual-battery-system.html

If you have a West Marine store close to you, they will have everything you need to complete this project.

 

[-JD-]

It has been a long time coming, but here are some pictures of my dual battery system.

- Kilby Tray
- 2 Sear Platinum P1
- 125amp Mega Fuse

Almost exactly what I am planning. I have the Kilby kit on the shelf.

Other than than A/C work and the PCM move, did you need to do any physical reconfiguration to fit the Sears P1s vs. the Kilby-spec G34 Optimas?


What do you think of using this BlueSea fuse mounted right at the alternator in place of the fuseable link?

http://bluesea.com/category/81/21/productline/overview/378
http://bluesea.com/category/81/22/productline/overview/379


How are you handling disconnect for service/safety? Looks like the negatives are totally buried.

 

[-JD-]

I used a few items from BlueSea. I have an ACR (Automatic Charging Relay) that connects the two batteries via heavy (0-2 gauge) wire. It is 100% automatic and will connect the two batteries when it senses an input of greater than 13 volts from the main (starting) battery.

As a backup (and for self jumping capabilities) I added another length of 0 gauge wire with a manual BlueSea switch in case the ACR fails, or the main battery dies and I need to jump myself. It works beautifully. I first saw it on MUD.

Are you using the 120A Rated SI series ACR?


I was considering using #7622 ML series ACR version rated for up to 500A continuous/1100A cranking (with sufficiently heavy wire) to eliminate the need for a separate manual battery joining switch. It has a remote switch for Isolate/Auto/Join with a manual override lever as well, in case the electronics go out. (On the right in the pic.)

http://bluesea.com/application/41/products/7622



Any pitfalls you can see?

 

[Jim K in PA]

I am using the 7622 with the manual override for exactly that reason. No second switch needed for manual override. The 7622 really is a well engineered piece, much like everything else Blue Sea sells.

Are you using the 120A Rated SI series ACR?


I was considering using #7622 ML series ACR version rated for up to 500A continuous/1100A cranking (with sufficiently heavy wire) to eliminate the need for a separate manual battery joining switch. It has a remote switch for Isolate/Auto/Join with a manual override lever as well, in case the electronics go out. (On the right in the pic.)

http://bluesea.com/application/41/products/7622



Any pitfalls you can see?