Factory-tuned SWR?

mmtoy

Adventurer
It was just pointed out to me that Larsen "factory tunes" their antennas for SWR. So presumably, I won't need to tune a Larsen antenna for my setup?

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is that SWR is a measure of how well a load is impedence-matched to a source. How can a factory-tuned antenna be tuned for my use if my particular radio isn't used as the source?

Also, these antennas don't come with coax cables, so isn't that going to affect the SWR as well?

Are they just tuning to an idealized source so that it's "good enough for government use?" Thus, my not tuning the antenna won't burn out my radio but may not give me the best SWR realizable for my application?
 

crawler#976

Expedition Leader
My rational in purchasing a factory tuned antenna was based on the cost of buying an SWR meter to tune my only radio one time...
 

mmtoy

Adventurer
That's a perfect rationale, and I think I'll be doing that as well. :)

But, you got my wheels turning... What does factory tuned really mean?
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Tuned for SWR, or tuned for a range of freqs?

The Laren/Radials that I've bought came with a cut length for the intended freq range (i.e. Ham 2m or Business Band 2m etc.).

Other than that, what's an "SWR Meter"? ;)
 

AndrewP

Explorer
Factory tuned may be kind of like "low fat", a term that sounds important, but means nothing.

Typically, the antenna will come with a cut chart for the whip-you measure the length, and cut it down. There is a second chart if you use their spring to cut it down even more.

Ideally, you would use the cut chart to get close, and the SWR meter to slowly trim the mast down to lowest possible SWR.

I would try and borrow a meter.
 

PhulesAU

Explorer
"Factory" tuning is just that. it's tuned for a specific portion of the band at the factory, and is really only any good at the factory. It will work within"good enough for Gov't" standards in certain application ,if mounted in certain optimum locations. like center of the roof or trunk lid. There's bound to be a local ( to you) Ham with a meter, I'll bet a few beverages and he/she would help you check it once you mount the antenna.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Stand Wave Ratio is a bit of EM waves basic theory, esoteric as it to most people. Basically what we are measuring is the magnitude of the incident wave with respect to the reflected wave. A 'standing wave' can be either or both a voltage or current depending on what you're looking at. Essentially, though, it's giving you a measure of the impedance match of the radio to the antenna system.

The output circuit in your radio has a tuned frequency response, so the expected load is not necessarily resistive. The problem is impedance is not an exact fixed value like a resistor but is reactive in nature, so it's got a capacitive, inductive and resistive component and is frequency dependent. That 50 ohm output is based on a relatively narrow range of frequencies. The antenna has an impedance, too. Ideally the antenna impedance should be exactly 50 ohms at the frequency you're transmitting and receiving on. There is only one frequency where the impedance is exactly 50 ohms and this is where bandwidth comes in. If an antenna has a narrow bandwidth, the impedance changes rapidly as you deviate from your center frequency and on the opposite hand a wide bandwidth antenna has a broader region closer to 50 ohms. The radio does not want to see any of the power being reflected back for various reasons, but in the end it's so you don't damage anything. BTW, the load can be 100% resistive and the radio won't complain. This is called a dummy load and it converts 100% of the RF energy into heat with no EM waves being transmitted. So in a real antenna you want a minimum of resistance, which is just lost to heat (which is one reason why a true 1:1 SWR is never achievable, you lose some energy to heating the copper of the coax and the steel of the whip).

Relative to the radio, the feedpoint of your antenna is the connector at the radio end of the coax. So you are 100% correct in saying that the coax needs to be accounted for. But the thing is that the coax is primarily just a transporter of energy and should be as close to invisible as possible as long as the end connections are solid and the coax does not experience kinks, cuts or deformation. If your cable is physically intact, it will have a very, very low reflection coefficient and in real life it's effect is actually pretty small when compared to the antenna itself. Modern antennas have a fairly wide bandwidth and are quite tolerant tuning wise. Not to mention that SWR is not a linear measurement. So at 1:1 (unachievable in real life) is 100% energy transfer, 1.5:1 is 96% power transfered (i.e 4% power loss), 2:1 is 89% power transfer, 2.5:1 is about 80% power transfer and 3:1 is 75% power transfer. So the range of ratios that give you acceptable performance is generally 2:1 and closer, which means you have a pretty big tolerance when you read the meter.

The problem is that when they say they are factory tuned, that does assume certain things, like coax type, good ground planes and such. Each installation is unique and so there is nothing that is a truly perfect 'tune'. They can assume a few things and get it close, which when coupled to a wide bandwidth will mean that the antenna will not exhibit a high SWR in most installations. The bottom line is this, though. I've tried a few different mounting locations and found that neither my stubby Larsen 2/70SH or the Comet C767 needed much tuning with different coax lengths or mounting locations. So as to the question of needing an SWR meter, I dunno. I have a couple of them and feel better about checking the SWR at low power after getting done. It's a sanity check to verify the connector is right, the mount is grounded right, the coax is not kinked, etc.

Edit to add: I might clarify and say that I could get a couple of percent better power transfer by tuning. My Comet for example only gained 0.1 on the SWR when I tuned it. The Larsen 2/70SH (this is a short antenna with a spring, really short in fact) didn't change at all but it's only about 12" tall and so the whip doesn't have much adjustment anyway. It has terrible range and is only useful for trails and in the city so I don't break my antenna.
 
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articulate

Expedition Leader
SWR: Standing Wave Ratio

More of a story than a definition, but this might help:

In the past - and with my knowledgable HAM radio buddy as my aide - we'd cut the antenna in question to "tune it" for the frequency at hand (most often 144Mhz). We'd install it, then put the SWR meter on it to check everything out.

Sometimes things like proximity to metal roof racks and placement on the vehicle will cause the SWR to go "out of whack." Fine tuning, then, would include double checking the length and/or moving the antenna and re-testing.
 

gary in ohio

Explorer
Many UHF/VHF whips will ship much longer than needed and the end user needs to cut them down. In fact a 1/4 UHF and VHF whip are often the same legnth. For VHF you might just cut a couple of inches off, for UHF you might cut 20 nches off. Factory tuned means the whips are in the right "band" For VHF Low, you have 3 bands, VHF high you have 3 bands, UHF will get 3-5 bands depending on manufacture.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
gary in ohio said:
Many UHF/VHF whips will ship much longer than needed and the end user needs to cut them down. In fact a 1/4 UHF and VHF whip are often the same legnth. For VHF you might just cut a couple of inches off, for UHF you might cut 20 nches off. Factory tuned means the whips are in the right "band" For VHF Low, you have 3 bands, VHF high you have 3 bands, UHF will get 3-5 bands depending on manufacture.
That's true of the Larsen NMOQ, it's a tunable 1/4 w.l. antenna from 136MHz to 512MHz by cutting the whip. But I thought their NMO150 and NMO440 were band specific.
 

gary in ohio

Explorer
DaveInDenver said:
That's true of the Larsen NMOQ, it's a tunable 1/4 w.l. antenna from 136MHz to 512MHz by cutting the whip. But I thought their NMO150 and NMO440 were band specific.
The NMO150 will cover 136-172, the 440 will cover 402-512, still some cutting to do even though its cut to the "band"
 

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