fairings...your experiences?

kodiak1232003

Adventurer
fairings...are they worth it?

i'm trying to figure out a low buck rooftop storage design based on a set of hard top mounted thule bars.

we went up to anaheim(disneyland...yeehaw!)...and i threw just the bars up there for a test run (feelings of drag or wind noise)


Well, lo and behold, they we're noisy as heck and i ended up taking them off for the return trip...couldn't stand it...

so, what to do? are fairings really that effective (worth $60.00?)...

we really do need the extra storage...

thanks...
 

greenhorn

Adventurer
I've got fairing on my set up. It's a 38" fairing on 48" bars. I can't even tell they are up there at 70mph. I was worried the fairing was to small and still be noisy. I'm very happy with the set up. I think I lost about 1mpg though.
 

Schattenjager

Expedition Leader
I would say that when you have a load - the fairing isnt going to help one bit. if you do not have a load - why have the bars? I have a Yak setup - super easy to take on and off - so when I have to carry extra gear up top - then I put on the bars. Small amount of effort for better MPG and livability with wind noise. I bet your setup is similar.
 

paulj

Expedition Leader
Fairings can deal with several things:
- air resistance
- white noise
- a howl

Whether they make much difference with the first two is debatable.

But some roof rack configurations do make a distinct howl or whistle. This is because the airflow over the bars or through the gap between bar and roof sets up a resonance. Almost anything that disturbs that resonance can kill the noise.

My rack uses Yakima bars with custom mounts. When bare it howls bad above 40mph. My fairing is just a 2" wide piece of aluminum, mounted on an angle in front of the front bar.

Other things that can eliminate whistles in some cases are
- cargo attachments, such ski adapters, cargo boxes
- a rope wrapped spirally around the front bar
- a small air foil
- foam pads

paulj
 

kodiak1232003

Adventurer
Schattenjager said:
I would say that when you have a load - the fairing isnt going to help one bit. if you do not have a load - why have the bars? I have a Yak setup - super easy to take on and off - so when I have to carry extra gear up top - then I put on the bars. Small amount of effort for better MPG and livability with wind noise. I bet your setup is similar.


good advice, but no garage and the thule bars will be the actual base for a expo rack...it'll be VERY low profile

not planning on removing it very often...right now anyways.
 

Curtis in Texas

Adventurer
Well. hre's my 2 cents on this.

My 93 Rodeo has all the farkles. Too many to list right now, but you can see from the picture that it's a heavily modified expedition vehicle.
RodeoMoabMcDs.jpg

Now about the question at hand. Look closely at my rack. It is a combination of Yakama, Virgin Records bargan basket rack, and homemade fold down light bars.
My wind fairing is an old aluminum door from an old travel trailer we dissasembled some time back. Why buy something expensive when you have materials at hand that will do the job. It has two Yakama mountain bike rails on the outside, a fold up kayack rack that allows stuff in the basket under the Kayack. The shovel and axe are mounted with gun rack holders on the side of the rack. And like I said the light bar folds back flat in front of the basket to allow me to park it in the garage.

Before I added the wind deflector the wind noise was terrible. The mileage suffered too! It doesn't really matter if you have stuff in the rack or not. Your going to add wind resistance just having the rack on top of your vehicle. Just stick you hand out the window of a moving vehicle to see how little it takes to try and break your arm off. It doesn't matter if you hand is open or closed. Turn your hand flat like a wing and you get less resistance. Play with it like you did as a child and all this willl make more sense.
That's what a fairing is for. It blends the rack into the aerodynamics of the body. Channeling air up over the open bars and load. With the wind deflector all those different bars are behind a vaccuum.
When you load your rack try and put smaller items up front and large stuff near the middle or rear. It will help if you try and load so that you continue a smooth bulge behind the fairing over the top of the truck. Now, if you can, try and taper off you load near the back edge to allow the deflected air to flow back down to the road. Too much vaccumm behind the vehicle can be a detriment too. Ever drafted a Semi Truck? Same thing! Airplane fuselages are smoth and curved for a reason.

Use a tight tarpoline, if you can, for long highway drives to help channel the air smoothly over the various contents of your roof rack load.

My Dad was an Airplane Airframe Mechanic and when we were kids he built a roof top carrier for the top of our 56 Buick Station Wagon that looked like a wing. It was covered by a very taunt tarp held in place by cords. I remember the front edge went all the way to the windshield. That thing could put a Greyhound Bus to shame with his loads. He was always concerned about areodynamics on the ground and in the air.

I realize that my Rodeo has the aeordynamics of a parachute, but, remember, every little bit helps. It gets about 15 miles to the gallon at or under 65mph as it sits.

Well, I know that's more than 2 cents worth but, ya'll can keep the change on this one. :)

Curtis in Texas
 

kodiak1232003

Adventurer
Curtis in Texas said:
Well. hre's my 2 cents on this.

My 93 Rodeo has all the farkles. Too many to list right now, but you can see from the picture that it's a heavily modified expedition vehicle.
RodeoMoabMcDs.jpg

Now about the question at hand. Look closely at my rack. It is a combination of Yakama, Virgin Records bargan basket rack, and homemade fold down light bars.
My wind fairing is an old aluminum door from an old travel trailer we dissasembled some time back. Why buy something expensive when you have materials at hand that will do the job. It has two Yakama mountain bike rails on the outside, a fold up kayack rack that allows stuff in the basket under the Kayack. The shovel and axe are mounted with gun rack holders on the side of the rack. And like I said the light bar folds back flat in front of the basket to allow me to park it in the garage.

Before I added the wind deflector the wind noise was terrible. The mileage suffered too! It doesn't really matter if you have stuff in the rack or not. Your going to add wind resistance just having the rack on top of your vehicle. Just stick you hand out the window of a moving vehicle to see how little it takes to try and break your arm off. It doesn't matter if you hand is open or closed. Turn your hand flat like a wing and you get less resistance. Play with it like you did as a child and all this willl make more sense.
That's what a fairing is for. It blends the rack into the aerodynamics of the body. Channeling air up over the open bars and load. With the wind deflector all those different bars are behind a vaccuum.
When you load your rack try and put smaller items up front and large stuff near the middle or rear. It will help if you try and load so that you continue a smooth bulge behind the fairing over the top of the truck. Now, if you can, try and taper off you load near the back edge to allow the deflected air to flow back down to the road. Too much vaccumm behind the vehicle can be a detriment too. Ever drafted a Semi Truck? Same thing! Airplane fuselages are smoth and curved for a reason.

Use a tight tarpoline, if you can, for long highway drives to help channel the air smoothly over the various contents of your roof rack load.

My Dad was an Airplane Airframe Mechanic and when we were kids he built a roof top carrier for the top of our 56 Buick Station Wagon that looked like a wing. It was covered by a very taunt tarp held in place by cords. I remember the front edge went all the way to the windshield. That thing could put a Greyhound Bus to shame with his loads. He was always concerned about areodynamics on the ground and in the air.

I realize that my Rodeo has the aeordynamics of a parachute, but, remember, every little bit helps. It gets about 15 miles to the gallon at or under 65mph as it sits.

Well, I know that's more than 2 cents worth but, ya'll can keep the change on this one. :)

Curtis in Texas


!!!~~~GREAT POST ALERT~~~!!!

dude, thanks so much for all the info...i'm gonna re-read it when i get off work...
 

Funrover

Expedition Leader
WOW!!! All I have to say is that it really cuts down on the wind noise!! I think they are worth it!!! Plus where are you gonna put the stickers? LOL
 

OverlandZJ

Expedition Leader
Nice Rodeo, and welcome to Expo Curtis.

I'v been thinking about fab'n one of these up as well, if i pick up 5 mile per tank i think it'd be worthwhile.

I would imagine i'd want to form it to follow the curveture of the roofline and mount it as low as possible?
 

Overland Hadley

on a journey
Fairings are nice. But if your main concern is the noise, then as soon as you have anything on the bars the howling will go away. Or you can put one of the small, cheap plastic air foils on (Thule makes one, I am sure Yakima does too) and that takes care of most of the noise.
 

Curtis in Texas

Adventurer
Thanks for the props guys.

Here's a link to the "Wire" where I have a short description of my Rodeo.
http://www.4x4wire.com/cgi-bin/gall...ers_rigs/Isuzu&image=c_johnson.jpg&img=24&tt=
Just in case your curious!
You can see the roof rack better in this picture.
Like I said, it's a combination of several different pieces. Very functional and has a 600 lb carrying capacity. Although I don't put that much up there as the Rodeo is on the TALL & TIPPY side already. You can almost see all the bars in this picture and can imagine how much wind noise that thing can generate without the fairing.

When I get time I'll post up on some of the mods I've built that make life a little easier on another thread. Some of the stuff was not expensive to build, and made all the difference in being comfortable.

I just found this site about a mointh ago by accident and have enjoyed the Community. The wife and I have been into Adventure for many years.

I would suggest that when you put a fairing in front of your rack that you get a rubber padding on the leading edge.
Two reasons:
One; To make a better seal,
two; To keep the fairing from scratching your paint.

Door weather stripping works well for that. The salvage yards are a cheap place to get it.

Later,

Curtis in Texas
 

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