fusing a winch

[Michael]

Had a breaker but ...

I originally installed a 150a breaker in the positive cable to my winch but I eventually realized it was under-rated and would probably trip at the worst possible time, most likely when stalling out or under a heavy winch load. I swapped it out for a heavy duty on/off switch that I mounted inside my engine compartment. I normally leave it 'off' so no worries about shorting in case of an accident or any action that would inadvertently start the winch.

 

[buckshot500]

I use Anderson connectors since my winch is mounted on a hitch plate. I can use it at the front or back of the vehicle, & on either of my jeeps. I found these things at a Forklift repair shop for about $ 9.00 each (Forklifts use them for battery connections). They are rated for 175 amps.

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=imag...&w=300&h=300&ei=WOdPTo6SPNHUgAeyvcySBw&zoom=1

When not in use, I unplug the winch.

 

[Nonimouse]

Rated at 175 amps...

Even a very efficient winch will run 375 amps when working hard

I don't know how high a rating they go up tp though

 

[762X39]

I use an anderson 350 amp connector and a 500 amp ANL fuse in a holder less than 12 inches from the battery. Forklifts and other battery operated devices use the same setups and they work for years in harsh (industrial) conditions.Why it isnt more common is likely because people dont get electrics and are more concerned about their wallets than their trucks.I have watched shorted electrics in a vehicle burn it to the ground (battery to starter motor is less than 50cm and well protected so a short there is less likely) in about 5 minutes.Your choice...

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I too use Anderson connectors as my 'manual' fuse. Without starting the 'winch war' I'm plenty satisfied with the 4/5 wire system used by Warn versus the 3 wire system used by others. Instead of a single pair needing to make a connection, Warn requires that two particular pairs make a connection (DPDT) thus the chances of a stuck solenoid are minimal.

 

[Antichrist]

Rated at 175 amps...

Even a very efficient winch will run 375 amps when working hard

I don't know how high a rating they go up tp though

Well, of my electric winch models, Warn 8274, Ramsey RE10000 and Ramesy Platinum 9000, the 8274 is the highest at 450 amps at full load, the RE the lowest at 335 amps.

So yeah, my thought was the same.

 

[Count Fred]

do you carry a bunch of spares with you?

Yes, I carry at least two. Plus my fuse holder would allow me to quickly bypass the fuse if I needed winch power and was blowing all my fuses.

Cheers,
JFS III

 

[rdsk8ter]

what about something like this? they go up to 800 amp
http://www.thesolar.biz/DC_Fuses.htm
or these http://www.donrowe.com/accessories/fuse_anl.html

 

[coax]

This was my solution. Not perfect, and not a fuse/breaker, but still allows for some cutoff in the event of an emergency. Also lets me keep the winch "unpowered" untill needed.

 

[Nonimouse]

That's nice. I would have fitted it to the battery end of the live feed, that way you cover any issues between winch and supply.

Looks nice mind

Nice to see a proper winch as well

 

[coax]

I would have fitted it to the battery end of the live feed, that way you cover any issues between winch and supply.

Yea, I went back and forth on putting it outside vs. inside the engine bay. Closer to the battery gains extra protection, like you mention. The reason it ended up outside was due to more of the "human" saftey factor, like solenoid sticks, etc, and the winch needs to be turned off ASAP. This way I don't have to pop the hood, reach in the middle for the release, open it up and find the switch. All a tradeoff, IMO. You get more "city security" by putting it inside. I did run the positive cable through some coolant hose from the switch to the battery, to help minimize the chances of a short. The neg. wire just has wire loom.

I think for most folks just putting some sort of disconnect in the system, somewhere adds a big safety advantage vs. having to find a wrench :Wow1: (Though it being very important to ensure that the switch is rated to the continuous capacity of the winch. Many battery/starter switches aren't rated to nearly enough capacity. That blue sea switch is rated continuous to 350 amps, which is what the EP9 pulls at full load/9k lbs.)



Here's a pic of how the final setup came out.

 

[Nonimouse]

When your tie bars rust - which they will, PM me and I'll send you over FOC the last of a batch I machined the crappy chrome off. They look very nice with three layers of clear varnish over the top...

I have a very soft spot for all the EP range. The last one I re-built was an EP16 24V - damn that thing was so sweet; heavy mind, but sweet. You could have raised the Titanic with it.

 

[Antichrist]

You get more "city security" by putting it inside.

The Cole Hersee that I use accepts one of these to provide pretty decent security even when mounted outside.

 

[Utah KJ]

I have a prototype "MiFi" controller that uses no solenoids, unfortunately, the retail price was not popular and the manufacturer killed it. When fusing a wire you must consider the current capacity of the wire you're using. A 4 AWG wire would start to burn before a 350A ANL fuse would blow. Automotive breakers are not a great solution either since they work on heat which makes them a big 'ol resistor which isn't a great thing to have in-line for motor performance. In my opinion, it makes no sense to fuse a winch.