gen 1 gen 2 rear axe upgrade questions

['round n' back again]

essentially i this,
will the companion flanges swap gen1 to gen 2?

same spline count and depth?

any issues with this??
anything else i need to know about?
thanks, to all.

 

[Toasty]

Yes and no.

 

[Toasty]

https://www.adventuredrivendesign.com/forums/index.php/topic,504.0.html


I'm making a tech thread for this and i'll install it in the Montero Wiki when it's finished. Enjoy!

 

['round n' back again]

aaaarrrgh.

it is how i remember it, the 94 is different. which of course is the axle i have. 94 sr.

so if im reading correctly, i need to source the pinion flange and driveline companion flange from a 95 model....
so,,,, i wonder if , maybe them fellas at ADD have any of these laying about .......hmmmm

 

[Toasty]

aaaarrrgh.

it is how i remember it, the 94 is different. which of course is the axle i have. 94 sr.

so if im reading correctly, i need to source the pinion flange and driveline companion flange from a 95 model....
so,,,, i wonder if , maybe them fellas at ADD have any of these laying about .......hmmmm

I might! HOWEVER i may have modified them to use Tom Woods Driveshafts, meaning the holes you need have been machined halfway through. I'll have a lookabout soon, i may have some unmolested 3rd members laying around somewhere.

 

['round n' back again]

Why the high dollar drive shafts?

are u heavily modified so much so that the mitsu are inadequate?

 

[Montynv]

I was wondering what driveshaft/ rear yoke to use if doing the swap and have a V6 manual trans?

 

[Toasty]

Why the high dollar drive shafts?

are u heavily modified so much so that the mitsu are inadequate?

For our NP241OR 4:1 swaps, and actually the Mitsu Shafts and yokes are better than what we buy from Tom Woods in my opinion. The Woods parts are "good enough" and he stands behind his work (except T-case yokes 1 year) but I don't think he actually makes those parts. So far they have been able to hang, we are switching to drive flanges for the T-cases now because the yokes can't hang. So if you're putting 4:1 in your Montero I recommend drive flanges because even the upgrade yokes break without much effort (Montero's are heavy).

 

['round n' back again]

WELL YES, EXACTLY. I COULD SEE NO ADVANTAGE IN THE WOODS STUFF, HENCE THE QUESTION.
SEEMED ODD TO ME.MITSU AND TOYOTA BUILD HELLSTOUT DRIVELINE U JOINT COMBOS.


sorry for the caps too late at night to retype. in lower case

the 241 or case i got had the jeep front output yoke on it with the drive shaft loped off i was going to re use its a pretty cool ball and socket kind of affair . i have not looked it over too closely yet.
for rear, a companion flange machined to fit my mitsu drive shaft flange.

i must mention a couple of things
first, i never find myself in the difficult and demanding conditions you fellows willingly and intentionally seek out. so hopefully i wont have to build as strong.
and
second its a fine bit of driving, operating really is a better word your videos show us. pretty impressive

i am a loafer, am old, and serenity b4 i hit senility is really my goal when outback of beyond.
and lastly.
i really hate walking home....

horses and cars.... there is always a chance i will be afoot. so ill operate the drone from afar and u fellas carry on in your accustomed manner.

 

[Toasty]

So here's the thing about Jeep parts, they are seriously underbuilt. The stock Rapezza Joints for the JK transfer case break under daily driving conditions on 30" tires. Yes they are actually that bad, most of my Jeep friends don't even wheel and they break more parts than we do. As for the demands some of us expect from out Monteros I'd say we here in Az mostly wheel within the limits of stock parts, we do challenging trails but with the modifications (particularly the NP241) it's just not as tough as the stock case. It's great for a cheap 4:1 but if I had to do it over again (and I will) I'm installing an Atlas or back to a Mitsu 3.15:1 depending on how it all goes down.

 

['round n' back again]

let me ask about this a bit further.


im losing u,

the 241 in the comments is the rocktrac?
your saying its substandard in your experience? or the yokes are substandard?
in my personal experience ive beat on borg warner and the 242/271 NV, with little in the way of breakage. the borg is unbeatable by any measure and the NV never blew apart on me.

the rock trac should have 6 planets, and an 1.5 inch chain, if that is breaking...i dunno there must be .... are u cracking cases? .


jim cole told me about an embarrassing time in Moab in the Atlas race truck. he was navigator on a demonstration run for the t case. they came roaring back into the viewing area, and right there in front of everyone that case spilt and spilt its gears all over the ground. uh oh.

 

[Toasty]

Yes the Rocktrac. The 241 is a strong case i just don't think its as strong as the Mitsu Super select case, probably more on par with the Gen 1 T-cases. The weaknesses for us at least are the upgrade T-case yokes, I always figured the little u bolts would break before the actual yoke. Kevin broke his seemingly with little effort (in fairness this was after wheeling the Rubicon, Fordyce, Dusy Ershim, Mirror Lake, Swamp Lake and a bunch of other trails). Like i said we don't flog our trucks, we take it nice and easy on very difficult trails. Mitsu stuff is just way overbuilt and i'm using that as my standard, there is nothing wrong with a 241OR and the gearing is great.

 

['round n' back again]

whats the super select?

 

[Toasty]

Gen 2 transfer case, It has 2WD, AWD, 4hi and 4 low. They are super beefy, unfortunately super heavy as well.

 

[Montynv]

I've searched and I can't seem to find the answer, can anyone tell me what drive shaft or combination I need for this swap? I have a 91 3.0 manual and want to swap in a 95 SR rear axle. Can I use the 91 axle and use the rear yoke from the SR? Or do I use the SR driveshaft and the front yoke from the 91? Are the front yoke spline count different from the manual vs. automatic. And lastly if different yokes need to be swapped out what is the correct U joint to use. Sorry for the all the questions but I want to have everything lined up for the swap. Thx.