Gen 2.5 Front Cam Seals

jms_brns

Observer
Well this originally started as just trying to fix the leaky cam seals because the t-belt had already been done recently, but from all the advice here and the more I read about it the more I feel should be replaced. Currently here is the list of parts I'm planning to use:

-Gates timing belt kit without water pump - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=678980&cc=1356713&jsn=344
-Gates water pump with gaskets and o-ring (no housing, is that ok?) - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=948596&cc=1356713&jsn=345
-Mitsubishi Tensioner - http://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse...ne-cat/engine-parts-scat/?part_name=tensioner
-Mitsubishi Crank Seal - http://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse...e-cat/engine-scat/?part_name=front-crank-seal
-Mitsubishi Front Cam Seals - purchased from dealer

Reason for getting Gates t-belt and pump separately is because the combined kit includes a tensioner which everyone says should be OEM, so I'm saving by not buying a useless aftermarket tensioner. But this route does not include the pump housing, is that a bad thing? Do I need to replace it? All of this work was done within the last 15k miles.

Any additional comments, recommendations, opinions on the parts or process is welcome.

I also found that the lowest portion of the lower timing cover is gone. The lower timing cover is there but the thin loop that loops under the crankshaft is broken off. First I thought a previous mechanic must have broken it so they could get the lower timing cover off without pulling the crank pulley, but there's not quite enough gone to allow the cover to be removed while the pulley is still there. New lower timing cover = $40. :squint:

While on the subject of timing covers, how important are the gaskets in the timing covers? Mine look like they were cremated and their ashes sprinkled around where the gaskets used to be. Looks like the gaskets are a dollar or two each on MitsubishiPartsWarehouse.

I just got a quote from a local alternator shop to clean up the soaked alternator and put new bearings in, they said it should be around $65.
 
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jaccox23

Adventurer
If i'm remembering correctly I got the whole gates kit and just left the tensioner out. But it only came with the front half of the water pump with the impeller and it fit just fine, so unless the housing was leaking you should be fine. Just know there is a tiny O-ring youll have to order separate from the kit that goes to the pipe in the valley that connects to the water pump housing. the part number is listed on the sticky for the gen 2.5. Best of luck let us know how the process goes
 

jms_brns

Observer
If i'm remembering correctly I got the whole gates kit and just left the tensioner out. But it only came with the front half of the water pump with the impeller and it fit just fine, so unless the housing was leaking you should be fine. Just know there is a tiny O-ring youll have to order separate from the kit that goes to the pipe in the valley that connects to the water pump housing. the part number is listed on the sticky for the gen 2.5. Best of luck let us know how the process goes

@jaccox23 Is there an o-ring other than the one shown here?

WaterPump.JPG
 

jlocster

Explorer
You will need these:
MITSUBISHI MD030763 O-ring, Under Plenum Coolant Passage Tube to Rear Water Pump Housing
MITSUBISHI MD308723 Gasket, Water Pump Housing to Thermostat Housing

Aside from the o-ring and gasket mentioned, and your front cam seals, front crank seal, water pump, timing belt and tensioner, balancer bolt and washer, while everything's accessible, you may want to install a new thermostat, replace radiator hoses and accessory drive belts. You may also want to preventatively replace your crank and cam position sensors while you're there.
 
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jms_brns

Observer
You will need these:
MITSUBISHI MD030763 O-ring, Under Plenum Coolant Passage Tube to Rear Water Pump Housing
MITSUBISHI MD308723 Gasket, Water Pump Housing to Thermostat Housing

Thanks jlocster! So even though I'm not replacing the pump housing, I'll need to remove the thermostat, etc and replace the gasket between water pump housing and t-stat housing?
 

jlocster

Explorer
I would say the job pretty much requires you to remove the pump housing even if you're not replacing it. The pump housing is sandwiched between the water pump and the engine block, however some of the bolts that attach the pump housing to the block are "through bolts" that will be loosened when you remove the large one piece accessory bracket on the front of the engine to get to the water pump. This will cause the pump housing to leak in which case you'll want to remove it to replace the gasket. Removing the pump housing also makes it easier to attach the new water pump.

You'll end up disconnecting the thermostat housing from the pump housing either at the beginning of the job to give you more space to work or later when the pump housing gets removed from the block.
 
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jms_brns

Observer
I would say the job pretty much requires you to remove the pump housing even if you're not replacing it. The pump housing is sandwiched between the water pump and the engine block, however some of the bolts that attach the pump housing to the block are "through bolts" that will be loosened when you remove the large one piece accessory bracket on the front of the engine to get to the water pump. This will cause the pump housing to leak in which case you'll want to remove it to replace the gasket. Removing the pump housing also makes it easier to attach the new water pump.

You'll end up disconnecting the thermostat housing from the pump housing either at the beginning of the job to give you more space to work or later when the pump housing gets removed from the block.

Thanks for the explanation @jlocster, that makes sense. And with those two parts totaling about $15 I might as well get it done!

Everything @jlocster is pure gold listen to what he's saying

Agreed. I've followed some of his detailed write-ups which allowed me to easily complete tasks that would have taken me 10x longer otherwise.


Thanks again to everyone for the input. I should have everything taken apart this evening, and all the new parts arriving on Wednesday. If I manage to get through all this without screwing anything up, its thanks to all of you, if I don't, its thanks to me.
 

jms_brns

Observer
c2e047a021b2058b0cd0f02499fdd270.jpg


Looks like I need the new crank bolt right? I already ordered it, but out of curiosity, what was the reason for the update or the significance of the change?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

RyanY

Adventurer
Breakage issues. I believe there's an updated torque spec for the new bolt as well, probably in a TSB somewhere.
 

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