Help -- Need to install window mount AC in a cabinet

CheleA

New member
Hello Folks,
We are setting up a 6x12 cargo trailer as an office for a project. We have mounted a 5K BTU Samsung(Home Depot) AC in a cabinet inside the trailer. The cabinet is vented to the outside using a 6" hole through the floor. The AC just blows hot air, we know we are not venting the AC properly and wanted to know if anyone can point us in the right direction:) BTW, the AC cannot be wall mounted and vented through the side(it would have been so much easier:( ). At this point we have to make the cabinet mount work. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
The hot side has to pull in fresh air from outside through the side vents to blow across the hot coils and out the back of the machine to shed the heat extracted by the cold side.

You need a lot of air flow on the back side of a window shaker and you have none.
 

ripperj

Explorer
As dwh said you need more air flow on the hot side. Right now the heat from the trailer is being transfered to the cabinet. The cabinet inside temperature is getting so high that the hot side can't transfer heat to the outside.
Make a bigger hole, or get a fan in the cabinet.
Edit- probably a bigger hole and a fan. Your design constraints are not ideal, but you could make it work.

Sent from my Passport
 
Last edited:

Martinadam

Broken Vent Slider
Install window mount AC in a cabinet

Hi

For Installation Window AC in a Cabinet

I introduced a little window aeration and cooling system in an upper bureau at the back of my Aristocrat. I mounted it high since frosty air settles, furthermore so I could vent it through the rooftop.

All went well until it got truly hot here in Southern California, and my charming minimal 5300 BTU Daewoo was simply not cutting it, despite the fact that the trailer is completely protected with 1" froth, including the floor. At the point when the promoting says it's useful for a little room, it implies a house room, not a tin box with inch-thick dividers and the kitchen stove going...

So yesterday I supplanted the 5300 BTU unit with a LG 8000 BTU box that I got utilized on Craigslist for 50 bucks. That appears to handle the warmth fine and dandy.

The front of the unit consumes in space air from the lower grille, and smothers icy air from the top. The back of the unit attracts surrounding outside air through the top and sides, and depletes the warmth out the back.

The Front and back should be isolated, obviously, but at the same time it's a smart thought to isolate the top and sides (consumption) from the back fumes, so the condenser doesn't suck hot air back in through the sides.
 

97kurt

Adventurer
Airflow. This is how I did mine.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/149793-Offroad-teardrop-build?p=2108018#post2108018

It uses a 120mm quiet PC fan to pull air out of the box and vent out the top via a 3" marine vent. Its barely enough venting and I am planning on adding a second fan to blow air across the back of the AC unit and vent outside.

When I turn mine on, it blows hot air for like 3min before the compressor ever kicks on, not sure if its normal or an indication that I need more venting and airflow.
 

Rutdigger

Watch This!
You need an entrance duct and an exit duct. Put a high powered booster fan on the entrance duct sucking air from the outside into your box. The pressure will force the hot air through your unit and out the exit duct.


Sent from my spy phone
Www.tonysjeep.com
 

Forum statistics

Threads
186,066
Messages
2,881,637
Members
225,825
Latest member
JCCB1998
Top