Help, Stripped bolt

[SilverBullet]

Well, I have managed to strip the Allen (or star) bolt that holds the Bud Built skid in place. I need to get the skid off for an alignment and would prefer not to have the shop do it. Any ideas how to get it out? I don't weld, so welding an Allen wrench in there to turn is not an option unless someone can come over tonight or early tomorrow and help.

Please, any ideas?

 

[ntsqd]

Hate to say it, but the easiest method that I've found thus far for removing striped FHCS' is to weld a large nut to the bolt head through the hole of the nut. I use a MIG to do this and have the wrench for the nut handy so that I can get on it while the bolt is still hot. Doesn't hurt to have some penetrating oil of your favorite flavor handy too.
Anti-seize the threads of the replacement(s).

 

[MotoDave]

You may be able to find an ez-out that will fit in the hex recess. Then again you may break off the ez-out in the hex recess, and then the fun reall starts.

I'd probably try to cut a slot in the head using a dremel, and use a hammer type impact driver with a slotted bit.

 

[keezer36]

x2 on slotting it with a Dremel.

I've also had success grabbing some pretty low profile heads with the side of Robo Grip Pliers.

 

[dnellans]

Is it crossthreaded or what?

A soak in PB -> heat -> easy out is my standard path to getting things out...

Do you really have to take the budbuilt off to get at the alignment cams? I've never heard that before...

 

[Deleted member 12023]

In bad situations I drill the head out so it comes off. Once you remove the skid plate, torch what's left of the screw and use vice grips to turn it. If it breaks off, use a torch and an easyout.

Trust me..I live in the rust belt:ylsmoke:

 

[ntsqd]

Forgot to mention some of my other tricks. Find a sturdy punch that fits into the socket. Get a real hammer, place it in the bottom of the socket and HIT it! Alternate this with soaking in a penetrant (I like PB too, but what ever works for you). After a cycles try the key again. Best are those that you can twist with a ratchet. Use one hand to twist and the other to push the key into the socket as hard as you possibly can. Sometime small wiggle/jerks on the ratchet will break it loose when a slow twist won't.

 

[SilverBullet]

Well, I considered the welding idea, but no welder and no one available last night with one. Clark did have an easy out set that we drilled and got to work. Thanks Clark. I guess one of those will be on my shopping list in the near future.

As for crossthreaded, nope, just stripped i tgoing in accidently I guess. As for removing it, I am doing it to be easier on the guy, he is a friend. The first time I had an alignment, it was possible, but difficult at best, so this time I will make it easier.

Thanks everyone for the ideas, I am glad we got it out.

 

[97kurt]

The allen bolts that bud gives you rust pretty easily and I had to drill both of mine out. It was a huge pain in the *** to fix.

If you can cut a slot in the allen head then I would suggest hitting it with an impact screwdriver. I think they are like $12 at harbor freight, that is, if you can raise your truck high enough off the ground to get a good swing at it.

When its all said and done, buy some stainless allen heads. McMaster-car part number 92125A292 is what I just got.