Here is my 710K Pinzgauer 1974. Restoration and transformation project.

D

drudru

Observer
http://imgur.com/a/uwH5B#0

This is my Steyr-Daimler-Puch 710K Pinzgauer 1974. It was imported from the Swiss Army. It's an incredible machine.
It's 4 wheels independents Portal axles and tiny wheel base combined with a very low center of gravity makes it very agile offroad.
I just started work to completely restore and transform it into a overland camper. A sort of Volkswagen Westfalia on steroids.

A few more stats:
It is less then 14 feet long, and 5' 3/4 wide. It weights 4300lbs, has a payload of 2200lbs and can tow 5000lbs
45-degree approach and departure angle.
100% slope, or until tyres lose traction.
27.6 in fording depth.
Can climb down a 14.2 in wall.
43.5-degree side-slope.
13.2 in of clearance (lowest point when fully loaded).
Top speed (4x4): 68 mph.
Full engine power available at 4 kilometres per hour (2 mph).
 
Haf-E

Haf-E

Expedition Leader
Welcome - there are a couple of Pinzgauer owners on here... Looks like a nice truck (other than the rust) and that you are doing a good job on tackling its restoration.

A couple of things - be sure to go to the Real4x4 site - lots of info there on Pinzgauers, Haflingers and Volvo C30X trucks. You should consider lightning the main driveshaft if you plan on doing much highway driving - its pretty simple to do and makes a big difference in noise / vibration. Also - it looks like your front windshield is still the tempered type - really should change that out to a laminated one - any good glass shop can cut one since its flat type glass.

I would be interested in hearing what mods you have planned in "camperizing" it...
 
D

drudru

Observer
Haf-E said:
Welcome - there are a couple of Pinzgauer owners on here... Looks like a nice truck (other than the rust) and that you are doing a good job on tackling its restoration.

A couple of things - be sure to go to the Real4x4 site - lots of info there on Pinzgauers, Haflingers and Volvo C30X trucks. You should consider lightning the main driveshaft if you plan on doing much highway driving - its pretty simple to do and makes a big difference in noise / vibration. Also - it looks like your front windshield is still the tempered type - really should change that out to a laminated one - any good glass shop can cut one since its flat type glass.

I would be interested in hearing what mods you have planned in "camperizing" it...
Click to expand...

There is actually very little rust, the parts that got cut out was the worst parts. And conveniently placed to be easily repairs. The rest is light surface rust.

The list of planned work and modifications is pretty exhaustive.
For now my main focus is to get the body off, fix everything about rust and weld shut all the holes in it I don't plan on using (like original antenna holes). Then get is fully sandblasted, and then powder coated.
While the body is off, and the engine is off, I plan on modernizing the engine but converting it to injection and digital ignition; also re-polish the crank and whatever is necessary to make that engine run smoothly.

I know about doing work on the driveshaft, I am planning on doing it, but I didn't research the specific for it yet. Would you have a link detailing it?

When that is done, camperizing can be done:
Adding a secondary alternator and a independent electrical network for everything that isn't totally essential. (with an extra 2-4 battery)
Changing all the seats, fully sound dampening and isolate it with Dynamat.
Multimedia sound/video/navigation system, rear view/backup camera.

A Autohome Colombus or Maggiolina rooftop tent
A RV AC unit on rooftop.
The whole space behind the rear seats converted into organized space with a stainless steel storage unit.
The rest of the back converted into indoor living area. Redoing the interior lightning in LED.

Rebuilding the front bumper to better protect the driver and passenger. Possibly with a mounted winch, or a removable hitch mounted winch.
Building a rear bumper/tire carrier/gas can carrier.
Hi-lift jack mounts on front.

The list is long, I have a lot of work ahead of me.
 
D

drudru

Observer
d67u57 said:
great truck.

whats the drivetrain like?

if its gas,are you going to swap a diesel in it? :)
Click to expand...
It is gas and I don't plan on swapping a different engine, just modernize it with injection and digital ignition. I don't want to diminish the reliability.
 
Haf-E

Haf-E

Expedition Leader
The "lightened" driveshaft is the main rear to front one which is inside of the big central frame tube - so to get to it you have to pull the rear tcase/diff/axle assembly - which is easier than it sounds. Its not the short drive shaft with u-joints between the tranny and the tcase.

There actually is a solid shaft about an inch in diameter surrounded by a larger inch tube. On both ends are caps which hold it all together and are the actual connection to the front / rear drivetrain assemblies. The original idea is that the inner solid shaft is able to twist some to allow variation between the front and rear diffs. The problem is that its a lot of weight spinning at 4000 rpm when doing 65 mph.

The mod is to basically pull out the inner solid shaft and weld the two caps to the tube - making it similar to a conventional drive shaft. This reduces the weight by about 2/3rds if I remember correctly. Apparently this was done by Steyr Puch themselves on the later diesel versions of the Pinz. I did mine years ago when it was first proposed and its been great. It needs to be rebalanced afterwards - which takes some special fixtures as the ends are not conventional (surprise!).

Expedition-Imports in CA is where I would advise talking with - he usually has one around to do as a swap with yours - but he probably will want a core charge to make sure he gets your back.

While its apart you should also consider replacing seals and bearings in the "witch hat" assembly that supports the rear of the driveshaft. Also be sure to inspect for hairline cracks in the aluminum housings. All that weight at high RPMs can take a toll on the bearing and seal if the truck has been driven at high RPMs.

If you haven't heard of "Goat Werks" in Southern California you should look him up - he does fuel injection systems and has a really nice 2.7 liter upgrade that improves performance by increasing the compresssion a bit to go with the fuel injection. He also sells them as kits for self install.
 
D

drudru

Observer
Haf-E said:
The "lightened" driveshaft is the main rear to front one which is inside of the big central frame tube - so to get to it you have to pull the rear tcase/diff/axle assembly - which is easier than it sounds. Its not the short drive shaft with u-joints between the tranny and the tcase.

There actually is a solid shaft about an inch in diameter surrounded by a larger inch tube. On both ends are caps which hold it all together and are the actual connection to the front / rear drivetrain assemblies. The original idea is that the inner solid shaft is able to twist some to allow variation between the front and rear diffs. The problem is that its a lot of weight spinning at 4000 rpm when doing 65 mph.

The mod is to basically pull out the inner solid shaft and weld the two caps to the tube - making it similar to a conventional drive shaft. This reduces the weight by about 2/3rds if I remember correctly. Apparently this was done by Steyr Puch themselves on the later diesel versions of the Pinz. I did mine years ago when it was first proposed and its been great. It needs to be rebalanced afterwards - which takes some special fixtures as the ends are not conventional (surprise!).

Expedition-Imports in CA is where I would advise talking with - he usually has one around to do as a swap with yours - but he probably will want a core charge to make sure he gets your back.

While its apart you should also consider replacing seals and bearings in the "witch hat" assembly that supports the rear of the driveshaft. Also be sure to inspect for hairline cracks in the aluminum housings. All that weight at high RPMs can take a toll on the bearing and seal if the truck has been driven at high RPMs.

If you haven't heard of "Goat Werks" in Southern California you should look him up - he does fuel injection systems and has a really nice 2.7 liter upgrade that improves performance by increasing the compresssion a bit to go with the fuel injection. He also sells them as kits for self install.
Click to expand...

I successfully purchased from Expedition-imports once, but I have not been able to contact Expedition-imports again, despite multiple voice mail, I never got a call back.
I would be highly interested in speaking with them, for the driveshaft and others stuff.

I never managed to contact Coldwar-remarketing, either by phone, by email, or even managed to order, the store cart seems defective.

I had no issues with Swiss Army Vehicles.

As for Goat Werks, It's the first time I hear about it, The engine upgrades of the Phoenix were done there I would guess? He is a LONG way from me, as I am in Montreal Canada.
 
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