Higher Amp Alternators

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
I think I have finally stumbled on a few things about alternators on our OM366LA engine. I suspect that this information is also usable for the OM352 engines and possibly other MB engines as I think the mounting points are similar (80mm foot seems to be the big thing). So here is goes, apparently Mercedes used the same mounting style on some of the newer engines which had higher amp alternators available. These higher amp alternators also have 2 internal fans for cooling, which I am hoping will allow them to last longer. The trick with the newer style though is you need to do a bit of extra wiring to get them to work. Oh, and this is for 24v trucks.

Here is a link to a 110amp Mahle available in the USA, there are other brands available in the 100amp range

And a link to a 150amp Bosch (and a couple of others) available in Europe (haven't found a USA supplier of a name brand one), MB part number A0001506550

Some of the wiring you need to do is install a Bosch style plug, which is available here

This is an image of the Bosch plug pins
1628476348730.png
This is how to match the wires in the new plug to the existing wires, Stefan shared this information and it made things easy

W: Speed signal, for the LN2 the white/blue cable.
L: D+ , the blue cable on the LN2
15: Ignition plus (this cable must be installed retrospectively, when the ignition is on, current must be there)
S: Sense cable ( here a cable must be laid directly to the positive pole of the battery 1.5 mm2 is sufficient
DFM: This is a data line, where information about the current load status, temperature, etc. is output to other ECUs.

This image just help verify the wire color on the plug and what the function is.
1628476462537.png

Now one thing I learned replacing the last alternator. Most of the previous alternators I have worked with are case grounded. These alternators are also but I learned that the mounting foot has some rubber bushings so Mercedes installed a small ground cable that just went to a small case nut (probably fine on the lower amp alternator). I am guessing this might have led to our previous alternator early demise as I just reattached that small wire to the case, I just didn't see the rubber bushings and didn't understand why the ground cable was there. So with the new 110amp alternator I also installed a 2/0 ground cable which should be overkill.

As I am no electrician if anyone has anything to add feel free to jump on in.
 
I know the 300 series is quite different from the 900s. That said:
I ordered the U500 (mainly 12v in NA version) with the optional 270a alternator (stock 145a). I could only get alternators or the divorced rectifier to last ~20k miles. Several times. Other owners had the same issues.
I found out that the mount was a industry standard “J180 long”. A Delco 40si which goes up to 275 or even 300a was a fraction of an inch too long. But a 28si 200a fits perfectly. The 24v version is 110a. Enough for a camper truck I think.
Find out if you are lucky enough to have the J180 long or short or the “pad mount”. Probably not, rest of world UGNs some differences vs NA versions in electrical and hydraulic and pneumatic.
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
I know the 300 series is quite different from the 900s. That said:
I ordered the U500 (mainly 12v in NA version) with the optional 270a alternator (stock 145a). I could only get alternators or the divorced rectifier to last ~20k miles. Several times. Other owners had the same issues.
I found out that the mount was a industry standard “J180 long”. A Delco 40si which goes up to 275 or even 300a was a fraction of an inch too long. But a 28si 200a fits perfectly. The 24v version is 110a. Enough for a camper truck I think.
Find out if you are lucky enough to have the J180 long or short or the “pad mount”. Probably not, rest of world UGNs some differences vs NA versions in electrical and hydraulic and pneumatic.
I am no expert but I don't think ours is a pad mount. This is what ours looks like, the foot is 80mm

1628632550464.png

If this one doesn't work out then next step is a 150 amp Bosch, or contacting Balmar to see if they have a unit that would fit. We had Balmar alternators on the boat and they survived the tropics in a cramped engine "room" (not a room really on a 40' boat). After 20 years we never had one fail. They do need an external regulator which did fail, but we carried spares. They are a bit pricey though. Balmar does machine a spacer for the bottom foot for some alternators. This may be an option to have a spacer machine up.
 

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