How do you power your Refrigerator!

[TexasTJ]

Im looking to get a Refrigerator for the Rover with my Tax return. I was wondering how you power them once in? Wires to the fuse box under the hood, Pluged in a AUX socket, or any other means. If there are any wright ups out there a link would be great. I've searched and not really sean what im looking for.

thanks

Nate

 

[07 Elephant]

I power my fridge from a second battery through a fuse box and a set of wires to a dc plug mounted on the fridge slide. I then use the supplied dc plug from engel and plug it in.

 

[benlittle]

I installed a little 12v marine plug in the back of my disco. This wires directly to a 12point marine grade fuse box, mounted next to the stock fuse box. This box is always hot, wired directly to the battery with 8ga wire.

Nothing special.

 

[rovertech]

I also run my fridge through an auxillary battery and fusebox. The ARB fridge pulls a small amount of current and I have run it off of my main battery successfully before.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I refeed the factory switch outlet from the battery

 

[Mike_rupp]

Landcruiser Phil, I don't know what the Toyotas are like, but the Land Rover factory outlet isn't an always hot outlet, so your approach would be a poor approach for a Land Rover. I don't like tapping into existing wiring, so I think the best solution is to run dedicated wiring to the battery or a fuse box.

 

[rovertech]

Landcruiser Phil, I don't know what the Toyotas are like, but the Land Rover factory outlet isn't an always hot outlet, so your approach would be a poor approach for a Land Rover. I don't like tapping into existing wiring, so I think the best solution is to run dedicated wiring to the battery or a fuse box.

x2

 

[Navman]

I was going to ask a similar question, but might as well piggyback off of yours. I got a fridge recently with the idea that it will be used mostly in my VW where I'm setting up dual batteries and will wire directly.

I decided to take the fridge with me in the LR3 last weekend. I plugged it into the 12v outlet in the rear and discovered that it wasn't hot all the time. I never even thought about it until then.

Any LR3 recommendations for an electrical idiot that doesn't require much or any surgery? Dumb question, I know, but is there an easy and safe way to make the rear 12v outlet hot, or do I really need to get more involved? I really don't expect to use the fridge much in the LR3 so don't want to too much at this time.

 

[rovertech]

I was going to ask a similar question, but might as well piggyback off of yours. I got a fridge recently with the idea that it will be used mostly in my VW where I'm setting up dual batteries and will wire directly.

I decided to take the fridge with me in the LR3 last weekend. I plugged it into the 12v outlet in the rear and discovered that it wasn't hot all the time. I never even thought about it until then.

Any LR3 recommendations for an electrical idiot that doesn't require much or any surgery? Dumb question, I know, but is there an easy and safe way to make the rear 12v outlet hot, or do I really need to get more involved? I really don't expect to use the fridge much in the LR3 so don't want to too much at this time.

I will happily check the diagrams for you but quick, easy, electrical and safe don't really go together on an LR3. ;-) If you are still interested PM me.

Scott

 

[Corey]

Ran two live 12v plugs to the rear of the FJ Cruiser where there was already a 110v outlet, they get power from a Blue Sea aux. fusebox that goes directly to the stock battery.
It is fused within 18" of the battery, and each circuit in the auxbox is fused.

Pretty easy to do on any brand of rig.

 

[nwoods]

Any LR3 recommendations for an electrical idiot that doesn't require much or any surgery? Dumb question, I know, but is there an easy and safe way to make the rear 12v outlet hot, or do I really need to get more involved? I really don't expect to use the fridge much in the LR3 so don't want to too much at this time.

Whatever Rovertech provides I would follow, but if nothing easy can be found using existing harness, it's pretty easy to make your own on the LR3.

I ran cables back under the driver side door sill plates (they just pull straight up to come off, and tucked it under the bottom of the plastic sides in the rear, ending near the access panel on the drivers side rear (below the Accessory outlet, that is switched with the key as you noted). There is a spare grommet under the master brake cylinder assembly on the fire wall, just above the deadpedal for the drivers left foot. This can be hard to access on the engine bay side of the fire wall due to another wiring loom directly above it. Optionally, you can go through the steering console boot. Either way, just add a dash of black silicone sealant around the grommet penetration and you are good to go. I wired mine directly to the battery with a fuse block in the line in the engine bay (for easy access). use 12 gauge minimum wire (or better) and use the size fuse recommended by the fridge mfr. Wiring the LR3 is actually pretty easy due to all the plastic panels that simply pull off with space behind to route all sorts of stuff.

 

[Navman]

I will happily check the diagrams for you but quick, easy, electrical and safe don't really go together on an LR3. ;-) If you are still interested PM me.

Scott

Haha. You answered my question. No need to look at the diagrams, but thanks!

 

[Navman]

Whatever Rovertech provides I would follow, but if nothing easy can be found using existing harness, it's pretty easy to make your own on the LR3.

I ran cables back under the driver side door sill plates (they just pull straight up to come off, and tucked it under the bottom of the plastic sides in the rear, ending near the access panel on the drivers side rear (below the Accessory outlet, that is switched with the key as you noted). There is a spare grommet under the master brake cylinder assembly on the fire wall, just above the deadpedal for the drivers left foot. This can be hard to access on the engine bay side of the fire wall due to another wiring loom directly above it. Optionally, you can go through the steering console boot. Either way, just add a dash of black silicone sealant around the grommet penetration and you are good to go. I wired mine directly to the battery with a fuse block in the line in the engine bay (for easy access). use 12 gauge minimum wire (or better) and use the size fuse recommended by the fridge mfr. Wiring the LR3 is actually pretty easy due to all the plastic panels that simply pull off with space behind to route all sorts of stuff.

Thanks Nathan! That seems rather easy.

I guess the plasticization of today's vehicles does have some benefits.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I re-feed the factory switch outlet from the battery

Landcruiser Phil, I don't know what the Toyotas are like, but the Land Rover factory outlet isn't an always hot outlet, so your approach would be a poor approach for a Land Rover. I don't like tapping into existing wiring, so I think the best solution is to run dedicated wiring to the battery or a fuse box.

Mike reread my post I did exactly what you said I just used the factory outlet. Also the LC is the same as the LR in the sense that the factory outlet is not always hot - electrical reference switched. Re-feed in electrical term mean to supply power from a different source.

Anyway we are on the same page just with different terminology:sombrero:

 

[07 Elephant]

In my 4th gen runner the rear cargo area 12v dc adapater is not always hot. It's hot with the key on power. I ran a set of wires from my fuse box in the engine well back to the dc plug and disconnected the factory wire harness from it though. Now it's always hot and I have a new fuse to protect it. I don't run my fridge off that plug though. It got it's own wire set and plug and fuse.