Can't tell from the photos whether you included an internal sleeve under the weld zone (tube on tube), or whether the drum extension is simply butt welded. I would be concerned about flex in the drum under load due to the increase in length of unsupported drum, and might consider using brace bars from body to drum support end to resist twisting moment. I believe Gigglepin uses something on this line.
How Long Should A WInch Line Be?
- Thread starter cnynrat
- Start date
motomech
Adventurer
This site is like porn for your 8274!!!! check out the dual motor set-up!
http://www.gigglepin4x4.net/
http://www.gigglepin4x4.net/
It isn't impossible to bend or kink a standard 8274 drum, all while pulling within the limits of the 8274. Doubling the length of the drum without also increasing its resistance to bending suggests to me that the extended drum won't last long. I would be inclined to sleeve the inside of the drum.
michaelgroves
Explorer
ntsqd said:
:iagree:
Bongo Boy
Observer
I always assumed shackles were a last resort or something or they were quite an 'unknown' (regardless of their ratings).
If a shackle sees a load like shown below, isn't that a bit spooky? Do you take any steps to ensure this doesn't happen or is it simply a non-issue?
If a shackle sees a load like shown below, isn't that a bit spooky? Do you take any steps to ensure this doesn't happen or is it simply a non-issue?
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ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
The engineering behind a shackle of quality would have taken that sort of loading into consideration.
I would not use that particular shackle as the cross pin has no shoulder, which in a loading such as your diagram it will really want to have. I realize that you're probably just using that picture for illustration, but I thought that I'd point out at least one seemingly insignificant feature that is actually very important.
The coupling link that you posted a pic of above, I've only seen that used to couple two chains together, not two cables. I'm not sure that it matters, but it might.
I would not use that particular shackle as the cross pin has no shoulder, which in a loading such as your diagram it will really want to have. I realize that you're probably just using that picture for illustration, but I thought that I'd point out at least one seemingly insignificant feature that is actually very important.
The coupling link that you posted a pic of above, I've only seen that used to couple two chains together, not two cables. I'm not sure that it matters, but it might.
Bongo Boy
Observer
I guess it's not a big deal, anyway. On each of my bumper-mounted shackles I use two thin spacers, one on each side of the shackle bracket, made of PVC tubing. This was just to allow me to tighten the shackle down onto the bracket to keep them from slapping against the bumper. But similar metal spacers could be thrown on the pin in use if I'm still that paranoid. They would then ensure a straight or 'pure' shear pull on the pin.
Maybe another option to address any chance of putting a load on the pin threads is to use a straight D shackle instead of the anchor shackle style.
I like the coupler but I've not used one and I suppose that, at least on some of the better ones, the pin is itself held in with two steel pins, like the pin on the Gunnebo sling hook. This would make quick deployment impossible--my chances of losing a retaining pin are 100%.
Maybe another option to address any chance of putting a load on the pin threads is to use a straight D shackle instead of the anchor shackle style.
I like the coupler but I've not used one and I suppose that, at least on some of the better ones, the pin is itself held in with two steel pins, like the pin on the Gunnebo sling hook. This would make quick deployment impossible--my chances of losing a retaining pin are 100%.
Bongo Boy
Observer
Yes. It looks like there's a slight variation in these couplers and how the pins are retained. Apparently our nautically-minded friends use and refer to a hammerlock fitting...the forged components look about identical, but the pin is retained by a steel, split sleeve that sits on the pin at its midpoint--you hold the sleeve in place then drive the pin through all 3 parts. Crosby makes 'em under the tradename Lok-a-Loy, as does Columbus McKinnon. Apparently real popular in commercial fishing, etc. About $25 to $40 USD each in 3/8" to 1/2" sizes. Nice stuff. A guy on eBay has new 5/8" units for sale at $15 each...sure wish I needed a few that size!
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