Howdy and a Timbren axle-less suspension question

COFishead

New member
New member here, excellent forum! Such a vast amount of knowledge, I really appreciate all the posts. I currently pull a Flagstaff "off-road" pop-up toyhauler with my Raptor. I've had the set up for 3 years, and have fixed, replaced, and beefed up everything on that rig, I am shocked how crappy those things are built. That being said, I'm ready to part ways with it and build my own off-highway cargo conversion. You guys have done some amazing ones on here and given me lots of ideas. I'm currently in the market for a 14-16' v-nose. Knowing that I want larger rims and tires and more ground clearance, I'm thinking the Timbren set up would be the way to go. I see some builds on here have them, and everyone seems to like them. I'm looking for advice, especially any cons (outside the higher cost) to doing this swap. I think I would prefer a single "axle" set-up, but would like some input on that as well.
Thanks in advance!
Jason
 

Jerkeejoe

Member
I'm just wrapping up my off-road build with a Timbren setup and I'm very very happy with it. Here's a link to my thread: Trailer Build

It took me a while to figure out what would work and what to order (which model, drop, weight capacity, etc.), so feel free to reach out to me via private conversation with questions. I'm really happy with the way the trailer pulls and handles and will be using a Timbren setup on my next trailer as well. I think the difference in cost for me between axle and Timbren was around $400; really not that much in the grand scheme of things.
 

jadmt

ignore button user
you can call Timbren and someone who works there and is an engineer will actually answer the phone. I called and ordered some heavier springs (rubber wedges) directly from them. It only took a couple of days to get them. they answered all my questions and were great to deal with.
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
My biggest concerns with the Timbrens is lateral forces. How will they perform when the trailer is tilted and most of it's weight is on one side. If all you need is ground clearance then they should be great. I went with tandem axle to help with ground clearance without having to add as much height.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

john61ct

Adventurer
My biggest concerns with the Timbrens is lateral forces. How will they perform when the trailer is tilted and most of it's weight is on one side.
Just fine, as long as the main chassis frame is appropriately designed and built.

The presence of an axle is not an important factor there, it would be the springs/shackles/mount points.

Timbren greatly over-engineers their units, no critical-failure worries there compared to the traditional design.

> If all you need is ground clearance then they should be great. I went with tandem axle to help with ground clearance without having to add as much height.

Gaining extra ground clearance under the central floor area **without raising** any wheel/suspension elements is exactly what the Timbren AXLSS accomplish.
 

jadmt

ignore button user
Anyone know if the 7000# ones can be fitted with 5000#, or even 3500# rubbers?
Call them they answer the phone. I’ve called at least 3 times and each time had my questions answered. They sold to me direct which saved me money.
 

Teardropper

Well-known member
I've been happy with Dexter Torflex torsion axles. But on build #4 I was going to go with Timbren since there's so much hoopla on the boards about them. I'm back to a torsion axle.

The thing that put me back in my box was the fact that a friend running Timbrens is going through tires like oil changes. He's mechanical and can't get them to track correctly.

Don't mean to throw a wrench in your gears. I'd surely like to hear from those running Timbrens about this issue.

T
 

COFishead

New member
I've been happy with Dexter Torflex torsion axles. But on build #4 I was going to go with Timbren since there's so much hoopla on the boards about them. I'm back to a torsion axle.

The thing that put me back in my box was the fact that a friend running Timbrens is going through tires like oil changes. He's mechanical and can't get them to track correctly.

Don't mean to throw a wrench in your gears. I'd surely like to hear from those running Timbrens about this issue.

T
Thanks, that's exactly the kind of thing I want to hear about. Do you think he didn't align them properly when he installed? Is is a toe-in/out issue?
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Yes the main chassis frame rails must be parallel.

And the ball-center equidistant from the hub points via plumb lines measured on a flat floor, as outlined in the etrailer.com install video.

They do provide shims for minor adjustments too.
 

jwiereng

Active member
My biggest concerns with the Timbrens is lateral forces. How will they perform when the trailer is tilted and most of it's weight is on one side. If all you need is ground clearance then they should be great. I went with tandem axle to help with ground clearance without having to add as much height.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
How does a tandem axle help with clearance?
 

ITTOG

Well-known member
My biggest concerns with the Timbrens is lateral forces. How will they perform when the trailer is tilted and most of it's weight is on one side. If all you need is ground clearance then they should be great. I went with tandem axle to help with ground clearance without having to add as much height.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
How does a tandem axle help with clearance?
A second set of wheels widens the impact points, thus keeping it off the ground.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

Teardropper

Well-known member
Thanks, that's exactly the kind of thing I want to hear about. Do you think he didn't align them properly when he installed? Is is a toe-in/out issue?

I've got a 100% confidence the guy did everything correctly.

This is what a custom commercial builder told me: "If there's one downfall to the Timbren Axle-Less suspension, it's that initial alignment can be a bear. In particular, I have found that tire camber and toe need to be checked carefully and sometimes adjusted after the first 100 miles or so. Camber is adjusted using shims (included) between the spring and spindle assemblies. Adjusting the toe is a little more difficult. The bolt clearance holes allow a little bit of side-to-side play. I don't yet have a foolproof system for getting toe correct the first time, every time. I have to measure it, tighten a bolt or two, and re-check."

I think I'll pass.

T
 
Setting toe is no problem once you located absolute towing center of the trailer. Since each side is independent you have to measure from the centerline to the front and rear reference line on the tire tread.

Camber can be measured if you have an digital level, inclinometer, or protractor. Usually you can use the edge of the hub where the dust cap fits. Make sure that your digital level is perfectly vertical.

Solving excess tire wear is a painstakingly careful measuring process going all the way back to frame construction, squareness, and alignment with towing centerline. Something as simple as being an 1/8 inch off can cause the wear. Mistakes do happen so never assume it is perfect.
 

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