I just broke a second axle. Ideas?

[WhiteH2O]

I was up playing in the snow today and I broke my axle. When I got out to see if the noise that I heard was the axle, it was already sitting on my suspension; not even connected to the knuckle.

A few months ago, my original CVs were flinging grease and I let it go so long that I didn't want to just re-boot, but replace them. I had the truck in for the timing belt, and the mechanic gave me a good price for replacing both front axles. I don't know exactly what axles he used, but I think they were Napa (about $80 each). They started making noise and binding right away. One broke, so I took it back and had him replace it under warranty, but he said that since I have a lift they are doomed to break and he will never touch my truck again (he mad bro). Now, a month or so later, the other one breaks.

Here is the tricky part. Even before I had them replaced, I had a strange "thunk" in the front. When I backed out of my driveway, or if I hit the brakes hard to a complete stop, I would get a thunk from the front. Seemed like slack in the drivetrain somehow- I don't know how else to describe it.

So, what now? Any ideas what this thunk could be, and any guesses if these two issues (broken axles and the thunk) are related? Is is likely that my lift is so "extreme" that it is going to be an axle killer? It seems like lots of guys with these platforms are running as high or higher lifts, and I don't hear of this issue much at all.

I guess the question is- do I just get some OEM Toyota (Lexus) axles in there and call it a day, or are there other issues that I need to be addressed, and what might that be?

Suspension is stock coils with Bilstien 5100s on the high setting. Tires are 285/75-17, about 33.8".

This is the set-up (wasn't towing when they broke however):

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Many low-buck aftermarket CV axles have been notorious for failing long before the threshold of a stock failure. Do you still have your stockers? I'd be tempted to re-boot and re-install or start over with some OE axles.

 

[zelatore]

I recently had the same problem on my LR3. I had a clicking front CV and needed to change it out before a run coming up in a few days so I put in a 'lifetime warranty' part from Autozone for $100 instead of popping $600 from the dealer.

It broke a mile into the Rubicon. Maybe 150 street miles on it prior to hitting the trail.

Lesson learned. I now have an OEM half shafts waiting for me to install next weekend when I get back home.

 

[Ryanmb21]

I had a thunk for about a month and it was the lca bolt being a little loose, had to really crank it. I heard it when I would back out of my garage. Been fine for over a year now. I've also read others who've had a similar sound from worn lca bushings and/or ball joints. I'd go with oem axles.

 

[montypower]

Get used factory axles and reboot them. Or buy new OEM from the dealer. Huge difference in quality.

 

[Jeremy P.]

Also check that the cv isn't binding. I had to swap out an aftermarket cv to a rebuilt oem because the aftermarket was slightly binding at full droop (icon extended travel coilovers).jack the front end up so the tires are off the ground and spin the tires by hand to see if there are points of more resistance during rotation. Also the napa rebuilt cv's are often rebuilt oem shafts.

 

[Vegastoy]

Exactly what Jeremy said. Your axles must be binding in order to break so easily. Perhaps the aftermarket cvs don't allow as much movement/droop as the oem versions. If you still have your oem reuse them or buy new oem. Camelback Toyota in az is usually much cheaper than local dealers and most parts ship free.

 

[JduRunner]

While NAPA seems to be the preferred non OEM parts place, not much luck has been had with non OEM CVs on the 4runner forums. Its a part that I would fork over OE pricing for. If you are uncomfortable with rebooting and using the old ones I think it'd still be worth rebooting one of them to keep as a spare for trail repairs if needed.

 

[WillBeck]

I would cross reference Lexus and Toyota part numbers. Possible that your Lexus runs the same cv's as a Toyota model, and crazy enough, the toyota parts are usually less expensive

 

[WhiteH2O]

Thanks everyone!

Sounds like aftermarket axles are not worth the "savings". I don't have my original axles, otherwise I would reboot and continue with life.

I found a place (www.cvjreman.com/) that rebuilds OEM axles and is 1/3 the price as new OEM. I realize the irony in saying that the sentence after talking about how saving money on axles isn't worth it, but....

And the thunk being lcas... You are probably right. I'll check those. I always think worst case scenario and I was thinking transmission. When I read that, I smacked my forehead. Of course, I'm sure it's a bushing or ball joint.

 

[cam-shaft]

Also check that the cv isn't binding. I had to swap out an aftermarket cv to a rebuilt oem because the aftermarket was slightly binding at full droop (icon extended travel coilovers).jack the front end up so the tires are off the ground and spin the tires by hand to see if there are points of more resistance during rotation. Also the napa rebuilt cv's are often rebuilt oem shafts.

Yea what he said. ^ I returned one set of auto parts store cv because it felt rough when bench testing. The other one I got felt smooth.
Also any local reputable driveline shop can rebuild your oem cv shafts. I have a hard time believing the Toyota OEM shaft at $500+ dollars is that much better.

Do your tires hit your cab mounts? Kinda looks that way in pic.
Cameron

 

[WhiteH2O]

I just ordered OEM rebuilt axles from CVJ. They talked me into the red inner boot that supposedly last longer with a lift. Saved a hundred or two over new OEM. I really wish I kept my old axles when I had them replaced, it would have saved me a core charge.

^^^ Cameron- My tires don't rub except at full lock when suspension is completely compressed. That picture makes it look like a tighter fit than they really are.

 

[98tcoma3rz]

Thanks everyone!

Sounds like aftermarket axles are not worth the "savings". I don't have my original axles, otherwise I would reboot and continue with life.

I found a place (www.cvjreman.com/) that rebuilds OEM axles and is 1/3 the price as new OEM. I realize the irony in saying that the sentence after talking about how saving money on axles isn't worth it, but....

And the thunk being lcas... You are probably right. I'll check those. I always think worst case scenario and I was thinking transmission. When I read that, I smacked my forehead. Of course, I'm sure it's a bushing or ball joint.

CVJ does a great job remanufacturing axles. I know a lot of people who use him. You won't get the core charge back though unless you send him OEM axles. Check your sway bar end links for the "clunk" you're talking about. A broken end link or worn out bushing can make a pretty loud clunk sound.

 

[paranoid56]

time for a solid axle swap lol. but like others have said oem are good. what part are you breaking?

 

[DanKunz]

Non-oem are crap. But the good ones from Toyota. FJ are identical

Cvj has a good reputation. Saw that later in the parts. I would trust those. If you can't go oem


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