I need a (winch rope) opinion...

[racingjason]

I need an opinion (winch rope)...

I have a Warn 8074 that I was going to put on my Rover so I bought a 100' 3/8 line from Viking (still sealed in the bag) to replace the 150' of 5/16 steel line that is standard. Fast forward a few months, the LR is going up for sale and I have a LC with a factory PTO winch which I have decided to use rather than swapping in the 8274. Like the 8274, the PTO uses 150' of 5/16" line. Now in an effort to preserve the shear pins in the PTO winch I will likely be using a snatch block for most pulls (I should say I hope not to have to use it that often) which will really restrict my available length. So here are the options I am considering:

1) Keep the mint condition steel cable and perhaps modify the synthetic to be an extension.
2) Mount the synthetic and buy a 50' extension
3) Sell the 3/8 synthetic and buy 150' of 5/16 synthetic and perhaps an extension.

What does everyone think? I really like the idea having about 125-150' of usable length but is this necessary?

Thanks

 

[Alaska Mike]

I'm not talking to you because you're selling the Dormobile. :smilies27

I don't know what the terrain is like there, but I base my decisions on the average distance to a recovery point... then add 20'... then add 10'...

I still end up 10' too short.

I run steel cable still, mostly because I'm too lazy to change and too lazy to clean the spool afetr ever mud run. I've seen how uncared-for rope can fail pretty spectacularly at the worst possible time. I wouldn't mind going with rope, because the advantages outweigh the disadvantages, but I'd rather spend my money elsewhere.

If it were me, I'd sell the new cable and buy a 50'+ rope extension.

 

[flyingwil]

I would just buy some more rope ans splice it in to your existing rope. End to end splices for synthetic winchlines is pretty easy if equipped with the right gear. Viking Offroad's Winchline Splicing Tool Kit includes everything you'll need to get you back in the game. The kit consists of a 5/16" fid, a 3/8" fid, scissors, electrical tape, stitching needle, stitching twine, splicing instructions, and a storage bag. There is two major splices that could be encountered while on the trails an end to end splice and an eye splice which are both covered in the instructions in the kit.

End to end splices are commonly used to repair winchline that has been sheared in the middle of the winchline. To begin this splice you must first measure, for this splice you will need 7 fid lengths of additional rope to complete the splice safely.

Step 1: Both ends of the winchline should be taped, this prevents it from fraying.

Step 2: Laying both ropes along each side of each other, measure one fid length from the taped end and mark on both lines, this will be POINT 1. If a marker is not available, the tape can be used to mark this position.

Step 3: From POINT 1, measure 2 fids from POINT 1 and mark on both lines, this will be POINT 2.

(NOTE: A common mistake here is to mark 1 fid length from POINT 1, it should be 2 fid lengths.)

Step 4: From POINT 2, measure 3-1/2 fids from POINT 2 and mark on both lines this will be POINT 3.

Step 5: To make the splice the ends need to be tapered. Begin at POINT 1 and on the side towards the taped end, mark every other left and right strand for 3 strands.

Step 6: Cut each marked strand and remove from the line, this will cause the line to taper to a point typically leaving 6 strands remaining. During this the taped end may cause resistance to removing the cut strands and may have to be removed to pull out the cut strands.

 

[flyingwil]

Continued...

Step 7: Reposition the two portions of the winchline so that the cut ends are opposite of each other and both POINT 1 markings line up with each other.

Step 8: Attach the fid to the taped end of one of the ropes.

Step 9: Insert the fid and the rope into the other portion of the rope at POINT 2 and exit the rope at POINT 3. Continue to pull the rope out of POINT 3 until POINT 2 matches POINT 2 of the other rope.

Step 10: Switch the fid to the other rope and insert at POINT 2 and exit at point 3. Burry both of the ropes working your way from POINT 2 to POINT 3 on each ropes. In order to completely burry, tying the tapered end and using both hands and body weight may be necessary.

Step 11: Pulling both of the tapered ends, smooth out the crossover point.

Step 12: Cut tails on an angle (give them a point) and give the rope a final smoothing by stroking the rope firmly, burying both of the cuts inside the rope.

 

[flyingwil]

Continued...

Step 13: From the crossover point (point 2) count 8 picks and begin the lock stitch, by inserting the stitching twine.

Step 14: Stitch back and forth so that a minimum of 3 complete stitches is on both sides of POINT 2. End the stitching with an overhand knot.

Now that you are done this splice can retain 90% to 100% of the rope strength following the above steps.

 

[Youngunner]

That's impressive!

 

[racingjason]

I would just buy some more rope ans splice it in to your existing rope. End to end splices for synthetic winchlines is pretty easy if equipped with the right gear.

Thanks Wil; that is a good option that I had not thought of. The problem that I am going to run into is drum size. I think my drum will only hold 150' of 5/16" or 100' of 3/8" which limits my splicing options with the 3/8" rope I currently own.

I'm not talking to you because you're selling the Dormobile. :smilies27

Sorry to offend Mike but I am sure the Dormobile would be very happy up with you in AK.