Bbasso, you got a pretty nice and decent model there. Since it is all solid state it is very unlikely that the isolator has problems.
Are all connectors proper wired?
Especially the "E" input. This one is responsible for the correct output voltage. It should be connected with the regulator of the alternator. In Ford applications there is a fuse inline installed between isolator and regulator! Check this! Maybe the regulator must be replaced?
I do use the same. Never failed.
Here is the Original Sure Power testing procedure:
1.Remove all wires from the isolator.
2.Using a needle movement ohmmeter RX-1 scale or a digital ohmmeter
diode scale, hold the Red* probe on the terminal "A" and with the Black* probe touch terminal #1 and #2, and the "E" terminal for 3A
isolators (group 2), and the "R" terminal for (group 3) isolators.
A good isolator will show a current flow from "A" to #1, #2 and "R", and no current flow to "E".
3.Next, hold the Black* probe on the "A" and with the Red* probe touch terminal #1 and #2 (terminal "E" and "R", if used). A good isolator will allow no current flow from "A" to #1, #2 or "R" and will show current flow from "E" to "A".
4. Hold one probe on the aluminum heat sink, being sure there is contact by scratching through the protective coating. Then touch
with the other probe, terminals "A", #1, #2 (the "E" terminal for 3A
isolators [group 2] , the "R" terminal for group 3 isolators). A good isolator will show no current flow.
5.Colored terminal indicates "E" post on group 2 isolators and "R" terminal on most group 3 isolators.
*On some import ohmmeters, the red and black probes are reversed for these tests.
**If using a digital ohmmeter, a diode scale MUST be used
For more installation information use this link:
http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...sources/instructions/BUS_CBT_INST_180012q.pdf
By the way- charge current of the C-tek is limited to 20A. That's a bit on the low side for your application.... And to be honest just throwing a diode isolator and a B2B charger into one housing is clever marketing. The problem is: if one of these built-in devices fails:
- charger
- isolator
- solar voltage controller
you have to replace the complete unit. That's not very "smart"...
Just some hints, seen from an electronical side. You should use some additional cable protection around the terminals to protect the cable against chafing. Mount the isolator in an upright position onto a metal to ensure proper heat transfer. the cooling fins are there for a reason.
Test the isolator and if it works keep it- it's not a cheap unit.
This isolator can handle 120 amps continously, which is a lot! If your alternators deliver more you should upgrade, bigger ones are available.
