I am not running and oiled filter. The jeep forums are telling me it is the IAC or just a dirty TB.
Here is a full write up.
The IAC (idle air controller) is located on the back side of the TB. Depending on your year, you may have one screw holding it in, or two. I should say depending on your rig, not so much on year as I've seen either one screw or two screw models in the same year now having done a bunch of these. Not sure the reason for that but they both work the same way so no biggie either way.
As you've never done this before, it may likely be pretty fouled. How many miles on the rig? Typically higher mileage the worse it will be. There is no real "standard procedure" for this as a lot of internet stuff will say just "spray a can of cleaner down the TB" and call it good.
DO NOT do that!!! Once you do it the right way, you'll see why you don't want to do this method.
What I like to do is pull it and scrub it thoroughly for a GOOD cleaning job. There are 4 10mm bolts securing the TB down to the intake. Remove the two cables off the front-one pulls strait forward to pop it off, the other will pop strait off the side with a little pressure. Be careful with these-you likely won't break anything here but it does take a slight bit of pressure to pull them loose. With those off, I then un-hook all the electrical connections for the components on there-there is 3 or possibly 4 connections to un do. Be careful with those-slide the little red clip over then press the button and gently pull them off. They may be sticky as you've never done it before and might take a bit of pressure to pull apart. Wiggle them as you pull to help get them apart easier. With those off, remove the 4 10mm bolts then lift the entire assembly off the engine. Obviously you'll want to un-hook your air intake as the first step here.
With the TB off, next remove the IAC. On the engine is it on the back of the TB towards the fire wall, again with either one or two bolts holding it in. Remove those-mine are a 15 torn but I've seen some phillips too and some hex as well. Once that/those bolts are removed, it will take a bit of pressure to pull the IAC strait out from it's holding chamber. There is an o-ring inside there with a good solid fit so it's kinda tight. Pull that out, then begin the cleaning process.
For the cleaning, on "first time" high mileage rigs that have never been done before, it's worth a couple extra bucks to me to go get the dealer brand TB cleaner. It's a little stronger stuff and cuts the scrub time down enough to make it worth while for me on a "first time" rig. On my own rigs or ones I have done before, I just use regular shelf TB cleaner from the local parts store. So with it removed, spray cleaner on then use an old tooth brush and scrub the crap out of every surface on the TB, from all angles and all areas. There are some chambers and tunnels underneath on the bottom side that you'll need the tooth brush for as well as to remove the ring around the throttle plate. scrub inside the IAC chamber good too. After you do this and watch what comes off, you'll know why I don't like just spraying down the TB. You'll make a big mess with black crap that would otherwise just go down the intake into your engine and you'd never get the lower areas clean. You want a "mirror finish" here on all surfaces. If you have any haze left or grayish color, then keep scrubbing and cleaning. Depending on how dirty it is, I may end up using the entire can of dealer cleaner on a first time job with high miles. When the TB is cleaned well, then move to the IAC. You want the same mirror finish there too. It operates as a "plunger" so you'll want to depress the plunger a bit and clean that up really well to mirror finish. Don't force things but be gentle and you'll see what and where to clean. Make it mirror finish as well like the TB. Maybe do this first before the TB so you don't have to worry about saving enough fluid left in the can if you like-the IAC won't take a whole lot in comparison.
You'll also want to have a new gasket on hand to install after you've cleaned everything. The gaskets are cheap at around $4.00 but they're never in stock anywhere I go. I usually plan a day to change the plugs, clean the TB, etc. then get all the parts on hand a few days early so they're here. My dealer orders the gasket for me and it's here next day so I typically always get them there.
The job itself is really simple, just takes a bit of cleaning time for a "first time" situation. This is good preventative maintenance and while there is nothing written or any standard procedures, I like to make this my "standard procedure" to do every time I change spark plugs-somewhere around 20-25K. I think the book recommends 30K or there a bouts but after having a plug totally degraded and missing at that mark, I bumped it up to the 20-25K range and have been satisfied with this method ever since. I'll change the oil, filters, new plugs, clean the TB/IAC, grease everything, check suspension bolts, AR links, etc.-basically give it a good once over and call it good.
