If you were to pick up a Series III 88"...

... and it wasn't running, what would you (non purist) do?

Of course, I would initially try to save the original drivetrain. But if it were toast what would you replace it with?
 

czenkov

Adventurer
Hybrid

The Toyota 3B with associated Transmission, T-Case, etc. Just like Toy-Roverlander's!
I hear that with changing out the diff's to 3.90's it should do 70-75 down the highway (if you were so inclined).
 
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I like the idea of the 3B, and we are on the same wavelength. A more common engine (availability wise) around here is the OM617 mercedes. 4x4 labs sells adapters to use Toyota H41/42 transmissions.

I'll have to look at it, but I'm wondering how possible it is to use toyota minitruck axles, to gain front disk brakes and wide variety of other options as well.

I guess I should say that we're looking for a short wheel base vehicle to use as a cool commuter (12 miles a day) project vehicle. I'm sure it will get used occasionally for a bit of wheeling and local trips. I realize these are rugged, uncomfortable rigs, but cool, none-the-less.
 

Wander

Expedition Leader
70+ in a series!:Wow1: Wow-that would be exciting and terrifying all at once. My IIa was running very strong the last time I was coming back from Uwharrie and was doing about 60-that felt crazy fast.

Mercedesrover did the MB diesel and Toyota axles in his 88 and 109 (I think the build thread is above). He had to replace the regular bulkhead with the one from 6 cyl to fit everything so that might be a challenge. A buddy of mine is putting a carbed 3.9 in his SIII 109 with the A/T and will add A/C and power steering-it's also a coiler now. The beauty of a Series is that you've got plenty of room and it's easy to get the body off to make the mod's to the frame.
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
From a drop-in standpoint, a Robert Davis conversion is a pretty darn tidy package. It wouldn't overpower the stock drivetrain and would drop in with a day of wrenching. Just throwing it out there for consideration...
 
D

Deleted member 9101

Guest
Ok, I'll be the odd ball.... Small block chevy and a 5 speed....lol
 

Alaska Mike

ExPo Moderator/Eye Candy
A limiting factor on the 88s is the frame crossmembers, which limit your transmission and transfercase options. Many of the available adapters out there add considerable length to the package, where the crossmember behind the transfercase becomes an issue. Doing a spring-over suspension would likely require work on the crossmember under the bellhousing for driveshaft clearance. Not quite as easy as modifying a CJ or FJ in that regard.

The frame itself is set up for an offset rear diff (again, the crossmember).

It isn't the easiest platform to get creative with, although it's nothing a good welder and a creative mind couldn't overcome.
 

Wander

Expedition Leader
Another tid bit on engine swaps. Another buddy of mine with several Series trucks that has put 3.5's and 3.9's in them found that having RHD may the swap easier to fit. He converted two Series from LHD to RHD due to this. He also used Disco I axle's and jut added flares to the fenders, basically he made Defenders out of SIII's
 

Series1Rangie

Adventurer
LR Diesel

I like the idea of the 3B, and we are on the same wavelength. A more common engine (availability wise) around here is the OM617 mercedes. 4x4 labs sells adapters to use Toyota H41/42 transmissions.

I'll have to look at it, but I'm wondering how possible it is to use toyota minitruck axles, to gain front disk brakes and wide variety of other options as well.

I would look at the 2.5 LR diesel. It cheaper than a 200 or 300 TDI and with an OD will push a series rover to 70 -75. no adapters needed, and for a 12 mile commuter, it would do great. Loads easier than trying to shove all that other stuff under the bonnet. Really for 12 miles, the 88 drum brakes will do fine. Kept in good nick you will have no issues.

If you must go with something else, I would look at something along the lines of a 22RE. In weight savings alone, it would be worth it. ;) Just my $.02

All that said. I like the idea of a toy diesel and running gear in an 88.

Mike and Myles
 

LR Max

Local Oaf
If the frame was shot, then I would put a Coilspring chassis, defender/disco axles under it, and a V8/5 speed manual/LT230 for the powertrain. Oh and power steering.

Instead of a V8, might go turbo diesel if I could find it/wasn't priced the same as a bar of gold.

What I've found with a project car is that it just HAS TO WORK. Otherwise, you won't drive it. If you've gotta spend 20 minutes pre-tripping the stupid thing, you won't drive it to work, to the grocery store, etc. It sits and when a vehicle sits, that is when crap goes wrong with it.

The key is to make the truck as turnkey/plug n' play/user friendly as possible so throwing a cooler in the back and hitting the mountains doesn't require second thought. Or grabbing the keys for it off your key rack instead of your DD doesn't make you hesitate. Now you can drive it and enjoy it. That is what makes a project vehicle successful.

Well, in my eyes at least.
 
The key is to make the truck as turnkey/plug n' play/user friendly as possible so throwing a cooler in the back and hitting the mountains doesn't require second thought. Or grabbing the keys for it off your key rack instead of your DD doesn't make you hesitate. Now you can drive it and enjoy it. That is what makes a project vehicle successful.

Well, in my eyes at least.

My thoughts exactly!
 
If you must go with something else, I would look at something along the lines of a 22RE. In weight savings alone, it would be worth it. ;) Just my $.02

All that said. I like the idea of a toy diesel and running gear in an 88.

Mike and Myles

I thought about the 22RE last night. Similar size as the motor in the 88. I've been helping a friend replace siding on the house, he said i could have the 22RE sitting on the shelf... it is in pieces but with an unopened box of parts for a rebuild.

I think it would be quite easy to cram a 22RE, W56 Tranny, matching T-case, toyota mini truck axles, etc. The only thing I'm unsure of is the way the chassis is setup on the rovers; ie. driver/passenger/center drop and offset on the axles. Not to mention those components are cheap and widely available. 4x4 labs also has adapter kits to mate the OM617 and W56 tranny. But, I'm wondering if the W56 may be too long.
 

Viggen

Just here...
Passengers side offset, front and rear. Minitruck axles wont 100% work without modifications to the frame as you are going to run a centered rear housing with mini truck axles. As someone with a 3B powered 60, I say 100% a 3B would work very well. You can find rusted out, running 60s with the 3B, H55 and axles easily. The running gear of a Cruiser puts a Rover to shame. The 3B isnt a powerhouse but they run forever and return good economy and it pushes my 60 down the road at 70 to 75 no problems. Parts are not expensive and everything is mechanical. No timing belts or chains to worry about. 60 series axles are HUGE. Splitcase transfer case is tough and the H55 is legendary.

Here is an example of what you are thinking of doing:
http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/features/rover/0611_4wd_1957_range_rover/index.html
 

Series1Rangie

Adventurer
I thought about the 22RE last night.
I think it would be quite easy to cram a 22RE, W56 Tranny, matching T-case, toyota mini truck axles, etc. The only thing I'm unsure of is the way the chassis is setup on the rovers; ie. driver/passenger/center drop and offset on the axles. Not to mention those components are cheap and widely available. 4x4 labs also has adapter kits to mate the OM617 and W56 tranny. But, I'm wondering if the W56 may be too long.


Well i feel like some of the pictures I have seen of 100% toyota running gear in swb series have the sticks way back, and short rear driveshafts. What about just having an adapter and output shaft made to mate the 22R(E) to the Series transmission? I am not kidding when I say that you can stop a laden 88 with the stock brakes. Seems like a lot of extra non-essential work to get mini axles etc under it. removing re-engineering the frame cross members just seems excessive for the project, based on the 12 mile putt putt vehicle duty object.

Not trying to pan your idea, and I think it would be a fun project. :) Just thinking about getting the most bang for your buck. If you enjoy the working on it as much as the using it, then by all means, go for it. :sombrero:

Edit:

Of course if you pushed the grill forward Defender style, you might squeeze out an extra 4 inches which could certainly help. (that will add body work, but this is a labor of love after all right?

Mike and Myles
 
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