First it's a 2000 DII, just had the passengers side front wheel bearing replaced today. The brakes had been squealing every so often so since it was apart it was determined that I'm in need of pads and rotors both. I have read that some have had problems with after market items, so I'm wondering if those that have replaced them what did you get and how are they working as far as the three amigos are concerned. I have them also and they seem to be more and more my co-pilot these days. Thanks for the info and insight.
In need of front brakes
- Thread starter g23.40sw
- Start date
Stick with the genuine LR brake pads and you will be fine. I went through this (three amigos from aftermarket brake pads) twice with two different DIIs. I highly recommend the DBA Gold drilled and slotted discs (expeditionexchange.com carries them) with the genuine LR pads.
I changed the brake pads on my wife's 02 DII with aftermarket pads and the 3 amigos came on pretty quickly. Then I bought my 00 DII for myself and the dealer had the pads changed before I could tell him not to, or at least tell him to use genuine LR pads. I immediately got the 3 amigos.
So, pads are important. The discs..not important as far as the three amigos are concerned. According to my mechanics, the harder aftermarket pads tend to squeal/squeek which the resulting harmonics cause a brake sensor fault. Just what I have been told.
You can do the change yourself by the way...pretty easy.
I changed the brake pads on my wife's 02 DII with aftermarket pads and the 3 amigos came on pretty quickly. Then I bought my 00 DII for myself and the dealer had the pads changed before I could tell him not to, or at least tell him to use genuine LR pads. I immediately got the 3 amigos.
So, pads are important. The discs..not important as far as the three amigos are concerned. According to my mechanics, the harder aftermarket pads tend to squeal/squeek which the resulting harmonics cause a brake sensor fault. Just what I have been told.
You can do the change yourself by the way...pretty easy.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
I used Ferodo pads and rotors from Atlantic British. I've only got the rear installed so far, I had a bit of life left in the fronts so those parts are still in a box. No issues with noise/squealing/amigos with those pads in the rear so far. Ferodo has a good reputation.
I don't recommend the DBA rotors. Extra money for no gain. They do not improve braking performance. Slots *can* help clear mud if you drive through a lot of mud, but the holes are pointless and lead to early rotor failure on many other vehicles.
I don't recommend the DBA rotors. Extra money for no gain. They do not improve braking performance. Slots *can* help clear mud if you drive through a lot of mud, but the holes are pointless and lead to early rotor failure on many other vehicles.
Not to start a debate, but I dont necessarily agree with this. The drilled and slotted rotors help to dissipate heat and gasses that develop with friction from braking. As you probably know better than anyone, too much heat reduces your braking effectiveness.
I havent used any other types of drilled/slotted rotors than DBA, so I cant compare them. But I do know that they worked better than stock, I didnt have the brake fade that I was used to with the "regular" discs. I should also mention that I used them when I lived in Arizona, so the summer temps were in excess of 110-115.
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
[can of worms open]
This theory has been largely debunked in the sports car world, and you will not see drilled rotors on vehicles that typically see serious use. Drilled rotors served a purpose back in the 60's when brake pad lining material was inferior to today and they really did off-gas a lot. Modern linings do not off-gas nearly as much. Cross drilling removes material from a rotor, reducing mass, and therefore actually results in higher peak bulk rotor temperatures for a given vehicle during a given braking event. Cross drilling also reduces surface area from the rotor face, resulting in higher contact pressure between the pad and rotor, resulting in actually higher peak contact temperature. None of this is good.
To claim that the rotors actually work better than stock, one would need to actually compare them back to back on the same vehicle with a *fresh* set of stock rotors. The reality is, most people are replacing old worn out pads and rotors when they install their drilled rotors, and a strong desire to justify the extra expense (read: placebo) leads them to believe their truck brakes so much better with drilled rotors. Replacing old worn out pads and rotors with new solid rotors and quality pads will also result in a perceptible increase in stopping performance. Even the best pads and rotors wear unevenly over time, resulting in reduced performance. Replacing them with the exact same components will provide a performance improvement.
Here's an F1 brake disk:
That rotor probably costs as much as your whole truck. The engineer would be a hero if he could eliminate 1 ounce from that rotor, or make it work better. Do you see any crossdrilled holes? No.
Why? Not helpful, and will eventually fail.
Eventually leads to this:
This theory has been largely debunked in the sports car world, and you will not see drilled rotors on vehicles that typically see serious use. Drilled rotors served a purpose back in the 60's when brake pad lining material was inferior to today and they really did off-gas a lot. Modern linings do not off-gas nearly as much. Cross drilling removes material from a rotor, reducing mass, and therefore actually results in higher peak bulk rotor temperatures for a given vehicle during a given braking event. Cross drilling also reduces surface area from the rotor face, resulting in higher contact pressure between the pad and rotor, resulting in actually higher peak contact temperature. None of this is good.
To claim that the rotors actually work better than stock, one would need to actually compare them back to back on the same vehicle with a *fresh* set of stock rotors. The reality is, most people are replacing old worn out pads and rotors when they install their drilled rotors, and a strong desire to justify the extra expense (read: placebo) leads them to believe their truck brakes so much better with drilled rotors. Replacing old worn out pads and rotors with new solid rotors and quality pads will also result in a perceptible increase in stopping performance. Even the best pads and rotors wear unevenly over time, resulting in reduced performance. Replacing them with the exact same components will provide a performance improvement.
Here's an F1 brake disk:
That rotor probably costs as much as your whole truck. The engineer would be a hero if he could eliminate 1 ounce from that rotor, or make it work better. Do you see any crossdrilled holes? No.
Why? Not helpful, and will eventually fail.
Eventually leads to this:
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