Sandstone
New member
These are JKS Quicker Disconnect model 2034, made to fit the '07-'13 JK Wrangler with 2.5" to 6" lift.
http://jksmfg.com/i-13306776-wrangler-jk-2007-2013-quicker-disconnect-fits-2-5-6-0-lift.html
Modifications
There are a few mods that have to be done:
First, the mounting holes on the strut and the sway bar have to be enlarged slightly to 1/2" to accept the mounting posts. A cobalt bit is helpful.
Second, the posts that mount to the sway bar had to have the threaded end shortened to avoid contact with the frame. I cut them to approximately .875.
Third, one of the pair of posts that mounts to the strut is conical on the end and has to be modded so that the top is flat like the other. These posts
are the pair in the lower right corner of the first pic (no black bushing). On the passenger sde, there's not much room between the strut and the body,
so the sides of this post need to be rounded off so that you can work the disconnect on to the post.
There is slightly more room on the driver side, so the rounding wasn't necessary.
To set the length of the disconnect, I started with the center to center distance of the factory link, and adjusted it until I could get both links on
and off easily.
It also helps to taper the ends of the 4 click pins used to secure the links to the posts. Makes it a lot easier to re-insert them.
http://jksmfg.com/i-13306776-wrangler-jk-2007-2013-quicker-disconnect-fits-2-5-6-0-lift.html
Modifications
There are a few mods that have to be done:
First, the mounting holes on the strut and the sway bar have to be enlarged slightly to 1/2" to accept the mounting posts. A cobalt bit is helpful.
Second, the posts that mount to the sway bar had to have the threaded end shortened to avoid contact with the frame. I cut them to approximately .875.
Third, one of the pair of posts that mounts to the strut is conical on the end and has to be modded so that the top is flat like the other. These posts
are the pair in the lower right corner of the first pic (no black bushing). On the passenger sde, there's not much room between the strut and the body,
so the sides of this post need to be rounded off so that you can work the disconnect on to the post.
There is slightly more room on the driver side, so the rounding wasn't necessary.
To set the length of the disconnect, I started with the center to center distance of the factory link, and adjusted it until I could get both links on
and off easily.
It also helps to taper the ends of the 4 click pins used to secure the links to the posts. Makes it a lot easier to re-insert them.
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