Intake Plenum Might as Well's and Crank Gear

[evomaki]

Guys,

Time to re-do timing assembly and valve stem seals on one of my Montero's. I have a few related questions I do not see addressed (via search) on this site. Probably in 4x4 wire but searching that is a last resort. That interface is awful. Here goes:

1. Generally like to stick to the adage that if it is not broken don't fix it. That said, I think I remember hearing about changing seals on the water pipe that runs under the plenum while you are in there. Do I have that right? I have no coolant leaks and so wondering if I should leave well enough alone or fix what ain't broken. I will replace the front and rear cam seals. I know that is advisable.

2. Crank sprocket role pin is buggered up, probably due to a bolt failure somewhere in the engine's past. Timing spot on and I think crank snout fine. I'd like to swap out the crank gear to proof this out 100%. What is best way to remove that thing? No ready ridge or slot to capture a gear puller. Ramming a pry bar behind the gear looks pretty rough way to do it. Should I cut/grind notches into the gear for a puller? One guy on 4x4wire cut/split the thing by cutting with a mini grinder and beating on it with cold chisel. The beating part with a cold chisel just doesn't sound like a nice thing for your crank, or the front main seal, so I'm a little cautious about that.

Thanks for the help,

 

[mudraider]

You didn't say what you have for a truck, but generally you' ll be removing the water pump, which will be exposing the water pump oring.

sent from my pretty good Android phone

 

[evomaki]

Whoops, gen 2.5. will be replacing the water pump for sure, but I didn't know if anything should be done with the coolant pipe (for lack of better term) that runs from the thermostat housing to the back of the block. It runs under the intake plenum. No leaks. I'm probably just imagining that I read someone say you should change the O-rings in that while plenum off.

 

[SONICMASD]

I would definitely replace that coolant pipe when you're in there, the dealer has them. I didnt know they sold just the seals though, thought you had to buy the pipe as well. If you get the parts numbers please post them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jlocster]

MITSUBISHI MD030763 O-ring, Under Plenum Coolant Passage Tube to Rear Water Pump Housing

This is the part number for the o-ring that fits on the front of the under plenum pipe. The front end of the pipe friction fits into the rear of the water pump housing. It is advisable to replace this o-ring during the water pump/timing belt job. This o-ring does not come in the Gates kit.

As for replacing the pipe itself, I've never heard of anyone else needing to do that. Plus, the pipe is not 100% accessible without taking the intake off which you don't do as part of the pump/timing belt job. Unless you're confident the pipe needs replacement, I wouldn't.

 

[evomaki]

Well that I can do. Thanks. I knew something in that area was advisable to replace. Glad it isn't the coolant pipe or the cross over pipe in the back. Those would have been a drag.

 

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

Aisin sells the complete water pump (both halves, front and rear). Otherwise you're only getting the front. Rock Auto had one for my '95 and I used it.

Might not be a bad idea to replace the crank bolt and washer, just in case. I also replaced my timing gear for the same reason, but I didn't do the work, IncorpoRatedX did, so you could ask him, as he's on here, about how he removes them. I replaced my harmonic balancer as well.

Good luck getting to the rear cam seals.

John B.