Jeep WK LCA replacement - Compress Coilspring?

userg3

New member
So took the WK in for an alignment after getting some new tires and the dealer "highly" recommended replacing the lower control arms. Something about the tech doing the alignment could not get it exactly aligned, he thought it was due to A) the bushings being worn out in the LCA and B) that my lower control arms might be bent. I'm skeptical on the bent part (how would I bend both?) but agree the bushings are pretty much toast. Either way I picked up some Moog replacements, thumbed through the Haynes Repair Manual section on replacing the LCA's. Seemed straight forward enough but after pulling the tire I went "hmm there's the coil spring that everyone always says don't mess with... like grenades and such."

SO do I need to compress the spring before I replace the LCA or is it ok not to? It looks like to me the only thing holding the bottom of the spring up is the bottom spring bracket which is bolted to the shock clevis bracket which is bolted to the LCA...

Haynes manual doesn't say anything about compressing the spring but they've been known to leave stuff out, even if that would be a major step to leave out. :rolleyes:

Sorry I do a good amount of my own wrenching but the coil spring gave me pause, I guess this is slightly more involved than changing out a bad alternator.
 

paroxysym

Adventurer
being a fellow WK owner.. you should not have to compress the spring. the springs contained on the strut, which is connected to the clevis bracket. every video ive watched concerning lift installs(theres a nice one on Youtube on installing the OME lift) simply disconnect the strut from the lower control arm, unbolt it and youre good to go. now im leaving out a few things but to answer your question there will be no need to compress the spring to get your LCA installed.

I recently had mine replaced, my stockers had 174k on them- the bolts were seized in the control arm and the shop had to drill them out. I replaced them with OEM arms, as they got 174k out of them and everything I read concerning moog, raybestos, mevotech were not too reassuring. good luck.
 

userg3

New member
ok, thanks, I was slowing coming to the same conclusion. I started researching how to replace the shocks and springs to come up with it. I've got just north of 140k on mine so it will be interesting to see how difficult they are to get out.
 

userg3

New member
I picked up some of the Moog LCAs from RockAuto. I generally have good luck with Moog parts but saw your comment about them. Admittedly I didn't research the LCAs specifically. Still deciding if I want to install the Moog since I have them or pay to ship them back and buy the OEM. Anything specific make you go with the OEM?
 

paroxysym

Adventurer
I picked up some of the Moog LCAs from RockAuto. I generally have good luck with Moog parts but saw your comment about them. Admittedly I didn't research the LCAs specifically. Still deciding if I want to install the Moog since I have them or pay to ship them back and buy the OEM. Anything specific make you go with the OEM?

the fact the stockers lasted till 170k, granted they weren't terrible- but they were done according to my mechanic. I originally wanted to go with the mevotech, but the quality of bushing/ball joint on them swayed me away from them. same with the moog, they really seemed hit or miss, and I know the OEMs could/can be too- but they lasted pretty damn long. granted I don't wheel mine. I did go with moog uppers though since they were greaseable- they seem to be the heavy favorite for UCA replacements- unless you want to go for something 3 times the price in an JBA Upper or RRO.

I searched multiple forums and in the end I just never found a solid review for the moogs.
 

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