JK Rubi axles into a JK Sport locker wire-up

BADDANDY

Adventurer
I bought a 2013 Sport only because I couldn't afford a Rubicon. Not a big deal as I had a 2001 Sport that I had slapped some Rubi axles into. On both I really didn't need the 4.1 xfer case. I figured sooner or later a set of low-mileage Rubi axles would pop up so I'd slap those into the 2013. Well, that occured last month and I put them in 3 days after I got them. Now I'm about $5,000 cheaper than a Rubi with almost the capability, i.e., 4.10s and electric lockers. This post is on wiring up the lockers. Hopefully my write-up will be the most comprehensive one yet, at least I haven't found one better.

First off was to order a Daystar switch panel that replaces the net panel in front of the shifter. These are only for auto trans, but I modified it to work with my manual as shown in the pics. The trimming is required to allow the panel to fit over the shifter boot, looks ugly, but can't be seen as it's hidden by the boot. I ordered 2 Contura switches and bought a safety guard power switch to operate the lockers. I thought I had a pic of the wiring of the switches, but I must of forgot to. With all those pins, I only have 6 wires coming out of the panel. I've included a pic of the diagram of how I wiried the switches and at least I got a pic of the backside with the switches in the panel.

Next was to buy a stock Rubi locker harness, totally strip it down and rebuild it up to the 4 connectors needed. As you can see, it's not a stand-alone harness stock so was a bit of work. I routed the rear harness I made through the right tail-light housing into the cabin and fed it forward under the bed lip and pax-side kick-panels. I still need to install the front harness as I only have a few hours of warmth to work in during this cold snap, so will post a follow-up for that later.

I found an orange/grey dimming wire in an exposed harness in the pax footwell and tapped that for the locker identity light on the switches. I have an 8 post fuse panel mounted behind the glove-box for accessories that I used for On power with a 15amp fuse. A relay is not requied for this install. Ground posts are everywhere on my Jeep, so just use one convenient for you. I used one in the pax footwell.

Basically what I have is, green locker switch identity lights wiried into the dimming light circuit, a Master power switch that feeds power to the locker switch, and when the locker switch is On, sends power to the locker and when the locker contacts in the axle closes and completes a ground, the Red locked light illuminates providing a positive locked indication.

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brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
Nice work! I've been debating how I want to rewire mine. I don't like the factory single switch, or the limitations imposed by the canbus system.
I had to look at the wiring schematic for that switch to see what you had done. I'll have to look at what I have at home and see if they can be setup the same.
The ground for the locker confirmation, is it just a single wire coming back? For some reason memory is telling me that there were two wires on the second plug in the diff (I'm nowhere near my jeep now).
 
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BADDANDY

Adventurer
Nice work! I don't like the factory single switch, or the limitations imposed by the canbus system.
The ground for the locker confirmation, is it just a single wire coming back? For some reason memory is telling me that there were two wires on the second plug in the diff (I'm nowhere near my jeep now).

Thanks, yah, if I had a Rubi, I'd rewire it to what I have now too.
There are 2 wires on each of the 4 connectors, one to ground, and one to either power or switch light ground. The diagram states the wire colors.
 

type911

New member
Just did the swap. Have the lockers wired up with the harness. Trying to figure out how to get the POS+ engagement light wired. Do you remember what colored wires from the plug were POS+ and Neg- or does it matter.
 

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