King OEM 2.5 Shocks Compression adjustable. My thoughts.

steve_r2

New member
Hi all,
I just want ed to give my initial thoughts on Kings 2.5 compression adjustable shocks.
I run a JKU with winch,dual batteries, steel bumpers front and rear with swing away carrier, AT cargo rack and Front Runner Cargo slide.
Originally I started out with a AEV 2.5" Dualsport lift which has now morphed into what I have now: Control brackets changed to front Teraflex Monster lower control arms and Bilstein 5100s to Kings. 4.88 gearing, 33" Cooper AT3's.
Due to how I use my wagon which is a mixture of daily driver,overland travel (not as much as I would like), and hard and fast running in the desert two of my Bilsteins started leaking. Although generally happy with how they felt with the wagon unladen they could be pretty firm to harsh in certain conditions. I appreciate that this has a lot to do with spring rates as well, as the AEV springs and ride improves with more weight in the back.
Now as I am getting a tadge older and I wanted to see if I could improve things somewhat.
After lots and lots of reading around, then getting rides in other peoples rigs to try and get a feel for what I wanted I decided on the Kings.
I contacted both Off Road Evolution and Kings themselves to determine which length shocks I should get (as my lift is 2.5" and the shocks are either for 0-2" or 3-5" lift) I was told to go for the 0-2" length.
Initially the compression adjusters were set on 9 clicks both front and rear (20 clicks in total from softest to hardest) and then it was a case of finding what worked best for me in what I was doing at that time.
As my daily driver I now have it set at 6 clicks front 3 clicks rear. Now going over speed bumps etc I no longer get the bouncing I used to experience especially from the rear. Everyday compression's, expansion joints and the like are soaked up and tend not to get harsh kick back I got occasionally when the suspension was loaded through a corner.
On trips when the wagon has camping gear, fridge etc I have had it recently at 11 front and 9 rear. I am still playing with this but still gives a comfortable ride without trying to bounce my spine out.
For fast desert running I have run 15 and 12. Still had good compliance with no shock fade and coped very well with washboard roads, shale and firm sand conditions.
I appreciate that these shocks are expensive and it was an extravagance getting them. But, the fact that they can be rebuilt, re valved etc plus the quality of them swung it. Hopefully these will be the last shocks I will need or want.
The settings I have work for me, but depending on your wagon and what equipment you have fitted and the type of driving you do will determine what works best for you.
Are they overkill ? Possibly.. though the hard/fast desert runs justify them for me. But like I said they are expensive and not for everyone.
Do I regret getting them ? No.....I finally have my wagon dialed in to how I like it and as such they have been totally worth it.
 

jungblud

Observer
Kings are some of the best out there. Certainly not the cheapest no doubt but spending good money up front on quality will pay off in the long run.

I opted for Fox remote resi all around which are somewhat adjustable but nowhere near what you have. The Kings may be an option for me at some point at least for the front which is heavy with bumper, winch, dual battery, dual compressor and seems to not be as happy as the rear over the larger stuff. The Fox adjusters don't seem to have a tremendous effect and I have them set on their softest setting. I need to spend some time tuning them to see if they will offer better plushness.

Thanks for sharing your info on the King shocks!
 

Stumpalump

Expedition Leader
Kings call for 150 psi nitrogen. That's a minimum. You run between 150-300 or even higher if needed. Mine do not have the adjusters so for changes they must come apart. Tuners will tune them to run at 200psi so you have room to go up or down with the nitrogen. My numbers are 180 rear 210 front but it would be better to keep them at 200 and use adjustment clickers if you have them. Fooling with pressure works Ok. Ideal filling is with the vehicle up and shocks at full droop. Always let all the old contaminated gas out and fill them fresh. You don't need a fancy air fill chuck like a mt. bicycle needs. You just need a regulator on the bottle. You can also use argon or your argon mix from your welder. That gas costs more but you probably have it so no need for another bottle of gas. I've used both and it works the same. I've never heard of anybody using CO2. I think there is a reason.
 
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