Leaving Winch in Neutral?

[R_Lefebvre]

I've heard of people wiring in breakers or switches to their winch supply so that there is no chance of it winding and stalling out if something unforseen should happen, such as an frontal accident or... whatever.

I was talking to some local people about it, and they said, just leave it in neutral. If anything happens, it'll just run in neutral until you switch it off.

Seems simple enough. Any reason NOT to leave a winch in neutral as a matter of course?

 

[SunTzuNephew]

I've heard of people wiring in breakers or switches to their winch supply so that there is no chance of it winding and stalling out if something unforseen should happen, such as an frontal accident or... whatever.

I was talking to some local people about it, and they said, just leave it in neutral. If anything happens, it'll just run in neutral until you switch it off.

Seems simple enough. Any reason NOT to leave a winch in neutral as a matter of course?

Vandals can pull the cable and stretch it across the street, hook it to other vehicles, etc without your knowing?

 

[Bennyhana]

Vandals can pull the cable and stretch it across the street, hook it to other vehicles, etc without your knowing?

Couldn't they do that anyway? I mean if someone wanted to do that a silly little lever isn't going to stop them... Man that would suck!
My concern would be it backing off over time from vibration. If you hook the hook to a d-ring and after a while of driving the rope may start to hang and maybe snag on something offroad....

 

[Willman]

Warn sells a winch interrupt kit that is sold with their rear winch kit. I love mine! It kills the power to the winch when it is not in use.

We can get the system if anybody wants. PM me for pricing.

http://www.warn.com/truck/mounting-systems/quick_connect_kit.shtml

 

[seanz0rz]

when i wire my winch, i will install a cut off for it. ive seen too many parasitic draws from a winch in the past (one, but one is too many!) and that way someone cant come along with their controller and start messing around!

 

[michaelgroves]

Yes, I remember seeing a pic where some vandals passed the winch cable over the top of the truck, attached the hook to the towbar, and then spooled it in with a paperclip in the controller socket...

 

[Mr. Leary]

Yes, I remember seeing a pic where some vandals passed the winch cable over the top of the truck, attached the hook to the towbar, and then spooled it in with a paperclip in the controller socket...

Damn. Thats just mean!

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Wow, I never thought of the Hoodlum aspect. Although, it's a pretty low instance where I live. Having the cable work loose could be an issue, though my EP9 has a lot of drag in neutral. In fact, mine has been in neutral for... 3 months with no issue.

But, I might reconsider. I if I was to do a cut-out, it would be a simple copper bus bar setup. Doesn't really need to be a solenoid.

 

[I Leak Oil]

A disconnect switch is cheap and easy to install. Can be sourced at just about any auto parts store.
Easier to flip a switch to kill the power than to find the wrenches to disconnect it from the battery. Especially in an emergency or the fog of an accident.

 

[Sirocco]

as above, a battery isolator switch is what you need. something like these, make sure its rated for your winch.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/battconns/battisol.php

Just wire it into the positive part of the circuit, inside the cab will be best to deter vandals etc. removable key also makes things harder for them.

G

 

[Antichrist]

Most of battery isolators are built with use as a starter disconnect in mind, maybe around 100amp for 30 seconds at most. Not with a winch, 350a for 15 min.
I have a Cole Hersee 2000a battery disconnect. Good for 500a for extended lengths of time. They sell a lockout lever for them which replaces the normal lever and lets you add a padlock to prevent idiots from fiddling with it.

 

[robert]

Having an isolator switch is a good idea, leaving the winch in neutral is probably not- at least if you're still running wire rope. I was originally taught and have always been told by riggers, crane operators, etc. and several heavy tow truck operators that wire rope should be kept tensioned to prevent kinks, un-twisting, etc. It also reduces the chances of junk getting in between your cables when it's mounted on the front. I always used a winch cover and a wrap around the cable on my old 8274, but the winch on the Tacoma is better protected by the ARB bumper. Maybe an engineer can chime in here and provide some additional insight, but I've always gone by what men who trust their lives to it have told me. I have no idea about the newer nylon winch lines as I've never used one.

 

[java]

make sure any disconnect can handle LARGE amp loads for long periods of time.

 

[michaelgroves]

Most of battery isolators are built with use as a starter disconnect in mind, maybe around 100amp for 30 seconds at most. Not with a winch, 350a for 15 min.
I have a Cole Hersee 2000a battery disconnect. Good for 500a for extended lengths of time. They sell a lockout lever for them which replaces the normal lever and lets you add a padlock to prevent idiots from fiddling with it.

That sounds like the right piece of kit!

I've fitted my Defender with a rotary-type marine battery selection /isolation switch, rather like this one, and mounted it on the front of the passenger seat base, where it's out of the way, but easily accessible.

 

[Antichrist]

I've fitted my Defender with a rotary-type marine battery selection /isolation switch, rather like this one, and mounted it on the front of the passenger seat base, where it's out of the way, but easily accessible.

That looks interesting. I like the 500a continuous rating. What sort of pricing is on them? The Cole Hersee unit is about $40.00US