LightFORCE 170 HIDs-let there be more light!

[TEJASYOTA]

Well, after many many years of using the ProCOMP's 8 Quartz lamps, it was time to upgrade.
The ProCOMPs were starting to have surface rust and the relay was acting funky and the rubber gaskets for the lights were starting to show their age (rotting).

I have been thinking of getting new lights for the past few months.
While surfing Expedition Portal, I saw a post from Sierra Expeditions, for special prices on LightFORCE and FREE SHIPPING!!!

Now the choice between the 140, 170 and 240 versions and then HID or normal!?!?!?
Then there was the newer 210 versions.
Now you may be wondering what the hell does the numbers mean?
The numbers are millimeter distances (ie the diameter) of the lights.
As for durability - well, I will let their website inform you of their durability.
http://www.lightforce.com/us/index

Now to what I picked - it was all based on price.
I picked the 170 HIDs with the Yellow COMBO Filters, wire harness and the security nut. Also included was a Keith.

After gutting out the old electrical stuff, I sat and pondered on where to place the external Ballasts and other items required for HID.
Well out came the drill and a few holes & zip ties later in the grill.

The ballasts were mounted behind the left side headlamp & fender.

I will not bore you with the basic wiring instructions or photos, LightFORCE's instructions is very easy to follow with a pictorial too.
The only item I will talk about is the tapping into the HIGH BEAM's activation wire.
After searching posts and the FSM, I found a few posts that helped identify the Highbeam wire for my Tacoma.
TTORA-DRL and highbeams
YOTA Tech-High Beam Question
4Crawler-Headlights wiring

Now to the mounting of the 170s to my ARB.
I can say, it is a PIA to tighten those security nuts - not much clearance to wrestle with a wrench and security socket that does not have the 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive adaptor. The only thing you can use is a ratchet or open end wrench.

But the end result is worth it.

let me applogize for the photos, had trouble setting up the camera to take decent night shots.

Night photo is with the YELLOW COMBO Filters.

Night photo is with NO FILTERs.

The alignment was fairly straight forward.
I aimed my truck towards the garage door and used the seams of the door as a guide.
I then took it off to an undeveloped section of our neighborhood to see how it look on the trail.

Overall - I am very pleased on the install and the amount of light it puts out.
Now I have a pair of old ProCOMPS with surface rust.
I think I will wirewheel the rust off and rattlecan them black.
Then use then as backup / aux lights which will be mounted on my bed bar.
That will be a future project.

Thanks to Will at Sierra Expeditions, for having a sale at the perfect time!
:wings:

 

[Schattenjager]

It's tough to beat LightFORCE!

 

[EricBirk]

I just flipped my 170's as my Taco had a set of KC 8" on it. The difference between the 2 is unbelievable. 1 of the 170's was brighter than both of these KC's!!
Great choice in light and definately a good price. The boys at Sierra are awesome!!

 

[ryguy]

I too utilized Wil's deal to get me a set of 170's. The combo filters makes all the difference. I got a good tip(from Wil) to run the brown wire(high beam) directly to the battery. I like where you put the ballasts, very clean.

 

[TEJASYOTA]

I too utilized Wil's deal to get me a set of 170's. The combo filters makes all the difference. I got a good tip(from Wil) to run the brown wire(high beam) directly to the battery. I like where you put the ballasts, very clean.

Thanks guys - I like the idea of running the brown wire to the battery.
It is a pain to remember that you can not run both the 170s with the highbeams on.

I did notice on the ballast that the screw holes looked like they had machined tapped threads to them. I current have them held in place with zip ties.
I do have some spare metal laying around that I could mount them on.
Then mount the plate to a secure location.

Anyone know what the screw thread size is for those ballasts?

 

[Willman]

Congrats on the lights!

I too have the same setup!

Boy are they bright! I found that the clear spot combo is the best filter....

What do you think of the beam type (light)?

 

[keezer37]

With regards to the Security Nuts, I'm assuming they are on the underside of the top of the ARB, what of the bolts on the pivot of the lights themselves as shown here: http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=49? Are they secure? Can that bolt be easily removed or are they secure also?

 

[keezer37]

And another thing, is the wiring kit worth it for $50+? I know the hassle of running back and forth to the store when working on electrical but this looks like about $15 worth of stuff (relay, wire, conduit, terminals) sans gas of course.
Good price on the lights though.

 

[TEJASYOTA]

....What do you think of the beam type (light)?

Will already informed me that the pattern has a star burst look to it... it does.
Does it bother me? nope.
If I drove with the clear filters on, I think it may bug me a bit.

With regards to the Security Nuts, I'm assuming they are on the underside of the top of the ARB, what of the bolts on the pivot of the lights themselves as shown here: http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=49? Are they secure? Can that bolt be easily removed or are they secure also?

The pivot nuts are NOT secure types. I saw on another post, forgot who it was, he welded a piece of angle iron slightly infront of the bolt, so it made it more difficult to remove.
Meaning you would have to unbolt security nut from below and remove it to adjust.
I am planning to do that... after driving with these lights to see if I truly approve with the alignment I have set.:smiley_drive:

 

[keezer37]

Cool. Maybe a spot of black RTV over the bolt head and nut would sufficiently camouflage it foiling an unknowing thief working in the night.

 

[TEJASYOTA]

"A little dab will do ya!" as the saying goes...

 

[flyingwil]

Looks great man! :victory:

As far as the bolt on the mount base, some just tack weld some spots so that the nut can not be removed all the way. If you need to remove in the future, you just grind it down.

As Ryan mentioned, in stead of taping directly into the high beams, you tap into any 12v source you will be able to use the lights with out the use of the high-beams like the instructions say. I think the instructions are geared towards Australian users, and I am not sure of their laws on Aux lights, but would only guess that they are linked into the high beams. Just remember to pick a 12v source that is either switchable (on when ignition on) or not.