DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Which Traxide are you using? Is it one that keeps the batteries combined down to 12.0V?
LR4 Battery Charging Profile... Measured with IID... really this bad?
- Thread starter Pophamrt1
- Start date
iowalr4
Adventurer
Sc80 yes
Just to add to this, i dont think the batteries have really ever been split much lately. The batteries were sitting at 12.6 almost all the time after a drive. The light on the SC80 was solid. I did have the SC80 hooked up after I replaced the alternator and so it is a possible culprit (or some device on the aux side of things.) I don't have any devices really pulling much current on the aux side right now, just the National luna dual battery monitor and the other traxide isolator protector for the aux batt.
Im going to leave it all unplugged until I know more.
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iowalr4
Adventurer
Had some errands today. Seems to be getting worse. Now its running down around 12.3v-12.5v and will spike going down hill and such but stays pretty low. The computer is being wacky. Monday I will have a new battery and try a BMS reset, but I dont know what to try next. BMS itself? The only other thing is the Body Control Module/ECU I think. Really hoping for an update from the OP of this thread.
I have found, that with new batteries, even connecting an 800ah battery, the LR3 will draw it down to 12.6, before it finally stops... I don't know why. Best bet is to disconnect and charge each battery separately, let it settle and see what it looks like (check the voltage). I tend to change these batteries in pairs, so they wear out the same. As for example, if you have one battery that is at 12.5 at full charge and one at 12.8, they will try to equalize, and your better battery will also be pulled down. This is true with the SC80 or the 160. Though the 160 will allow you to set it to completely isolate the 2nd battery except when the vehicle is running. I normally run them in slave mode though.
Additionally, I fitted a higher output alternator, which helps keep things topped up better when driving.
I hope this helps.
iowalr4
Adventurer
I must have mine in the draw down portion. It is still not charging, but working alright. And just to be specific.. it seems the alternator puts out plenty of amps, and some volts.. its not letting it drain much more than the 2amps shown in the graph. It's just not pumping out the 14v+ that it does when it wants to charge. I have only my starter battery hooked up right now, just to keep things as stock as possible for now. Its -15F here today and I have already been out a few times, heated seats, heated everything, blowers, headlights.. its all working and probably drawing crazy power.. if it was not working correctly that battery would be totally dead. I just checked it and its at about 12.2-12.3v in the garage.
I did look for a higher output alternator, but could not find a good option. I wasn't able to find a quality purpose built alternator, only rewound or pulley modified versions. In the end I went with a new 150amp denso part. I am totally fine with having to maintain optimal battery health with my CTEK, while having a reliable factory alternator.
As I said in my landroverworld post.. i think this was just an expensive learning experience on my part. It still hasn't ever thrown a code or a low battery warning.. so I can only attribute this to me seeing the national luna monitor and thinking it was wrong and being overly eager and paranoid about the maintenance.
Thanks for indulging my posts.