Maintenance Question (2006 LR3 115,000 miles)

[brickpaul65]

I am making the metal pan/filter combo swap for the transmission and a fluid change.

I am debating the benefit of a full belt and hose change as well.

Are there any thoughts on this? It is not free but I am leaning towards the avvoidance of an unscheduled hose/belt failure. I am wanting to keep the truck another 5 years (current plan).

I may also do a compressor replacement due to my first suspension raising slowly fault while out on a minor trail. The compressor seemed to be cycling more often/running longer and overheated I believe.

I have considered the dryer replacement as well. I am just worried that it will be more temporary than the cost offset really buys me.

Thanks,

Paul

 

[unseenone]

It would be a smart move to replace the belts, tensioners and pulleys at this stage. You can keep the old ones for spares.. The transmission fluid should be changed every 60k miles, transfer case every 60k miles and the differentials every 30k miles.

The compressor may help, but the actual issue may be the seals in the air struts themselves. It might be time to consider rebuilding the air struts and replacing the dampers, depending on your ride quality.

The hoses are probably a worthwhile investment, I'm overdue on those.

 

[brickpaul65]

Is there anyway to evaluate the seals on the air struts? I am not losing ride quality. I am just noticing the compressor come on more often and the raising fault I experienced on my last trail outing.

When you are talking about the belt tensioners and pulleys, do you mean the ones for the serpentine belt and auxilary belt? There are only those two correct? I am assuming that you are not talking about any components for the timing chain. I am currently under the impression that the timing chain is not pm item per se.

Thanks

 

[LR Max]

Pull the radiator and have it rodded out.

If your engine overheats, you are gonna have a bad time.

 

[brickpaul65]

Pull the radiator and have it rodded out.

If your engine overheats, you are gonna have a bad time.

Is that something you would do if you are not having any troubles at all? I am just trying to hit the standard maintenance items I can think of. I might not even do the hoses just yet. I have not seen any discussions about full scale replacements or even hose failures. The dealer and atlantic british both do not stock them. Has anyone else gone to this length on their LR3 yet?

 

[sunrisehiker]

Actually I have replaced all coolant hoses in engine bay,as I was changing a cracked thermostat housing.I figured, when a LR3 is almost 9 years old, it is a good measure to do things proactively, then be unpleasantly surprised on the trail or remote area, when traveling.I also drained all the coolant and replaced it with new.
AB sells all rubber hoses needed for just that as many parts become widely available, for aging LR3 , on the market.

I can tell you this , with 115 K miles you are sort of overdue with primary and secondary belts, as mine developed micro cracks at 80.000 miles and were changed some time a go, along with updated idler pulley, that also should have been considered for replacement at the same time.

 

[sunrisehiker]

I may also do a compressor replacement due to my first suspension raising slowly fault while out on a minor trail. The compressor seemed to be cycling more often/running longer and overheated I believe.

I have considered the dryer replacement as well. I am just worried that it will be more temporary than the cost offset really buys me.

Thanks,

Paul

Dryer replacement is a good insurance for a properly working compressor and I am a proof of that as over the years , I serviced a air compressor twice already , with available repair kit along with a new dryers, and i m still driving with an Original compressor since new.
dryer usually gets caked up with moisture and causes a compressor a premature failure with usual "raising slowly " messages before it overheats and stops working completely,.

 

[unseenone]

On the air strut seals, I did rebuilt my air struts, and replaced the dampers with Koni FSDs. They have a softer ride. When completed, I did notice a snappier lift on the air suspension. I 2nd the notice that the air dryer should be replaced/reconditioned from time to time, which would have the compressor getting hot and running longer. This could be air leaking from anywhere, the air tanks do rust out on these as well, so inspect the system carefully for rust, and try copious amounts of soapy water when you are looking for leaks.

I hope this helps.

 

[A.J.M]

At that mileage I would check the following as well.

At the front.

Lower wishbone bushes and the ball joint, the arb bushes, drop links, lower steering column. Steering inner arms and track rod ends.

At the rear.

Upper arm bushes, arb bushes, drop links and the rear propshaft bearing.

These are known issues on the higher mileage cars in the UK, mine has everything bar the prop bearing and steering column done, but both are needing changed this year.

I would also check they alternator as a failing one can cause the mother of all electrical hissy fits in the car!